[1]毕慧娟,王 利,刘 正*.腰省位置对合体女上衣美观性的影响[J].服装学报,2022,7(01):22-28.
　BI Huijuan,WANG Li,LIU Zheng*.Effect of Waist-Dart Location of Fitting Blouse on Aesthetic Fit[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2022,7(01):22-28.
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腰省位置对合体女上衣美观性的影响()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第7卷
期数:
2022年01期
页码:
22-28
栏目:
服装信息与工程
出版日期:
2022-03-01

文章信息/Info

Title:
Effect of Waist-Dart Location of Fitting Blouse on Aesthetic Fit
作者:
毕慧娟1;  王 利1;  刘 正*1; 2; 3
1.浙江理工大学 服装学院,浙江 杭州 310018; 2. 浙江省服装工程技术研究中心,浙江 杭州 310018; 3.丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化和旅游部重点实验室,浙江 杭州 310018
Author(s):
BI Huijuan1;  WANG Li1;  LIU Zheng*1; 2; 3
1.School of Fashion Design and Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China; 2. Apparel Engineering Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China; 3.Silk Culture Inheritance and Digital Technology of Product Design-Key Laboratory of Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China
分类号:
TS 941.2
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
为分析省道位置对不同扁平程度人体着装后美观合体性的影响,制作3件同种规格,省道位置不同的合体女上装。选取10名胸、腰截面横矢径比呈系列变化的青年女性进行样衣试穿,根据专家打分对着装效果进行主观评判,通过比较胸、腰、摆水平线与衣身轮廓形成的角度进行客观评价。结果表明:当省道位置靠近前中线和后中线时,胸、腰横矢径比在1.21～1.29, 1.27～1.34的受试者美观合体性得分较高,从侧面看背部、胸部的轮廓角度较小; 当省道位置靠近侧缝时,胸、腰截面横矢径比在1.32～1.40,1.37～1.49的受试者得分较高,从正面看两侧的轮廓角度较小; 在相关性检验中,从背面看两侧的轮廓角度与着装美观合体性总得分呈正相关,显著系数Sig.为0.009。该研究结果可以为个性化制板提供一定的理论依据。
Abstract:
In order to analyze the influence of dart location on aesthetic fit of different body type, three women’s garments with the same size and different dart location were made. Ten young women with a series of changes in the ratio of horizontal radius vector of bust and waist sections were recruited. Obtaining subjective evaluation through experts’ scoring and objective evaluation through comparing contour angles. The results showed that, when the dart was located on side waist, participants whose ratio of horizontal radius vector of bust and waist sections between 1.21-1.29 and 1.27-1.34 have higher aesthetic fit scores, the contour angles of back and bust were smaller. When the dart location is close to side seam, participants whose ratio of horizontal radius vector between 1.32-1.40 and 1.37-1.49 have higher scores, and smaller side contour angles. In the correlation analysis, there is a significant positive correlation between back contour angle and total score, and the value of significance coefficient is 0.009. This research can provide a theoretical basis for personalized pattern making.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2022-02-28