[1]李 鑫,杨秋华,龚建培*.伊丽莎白一世肖像画中服饰刺绣特征的解读[J].服装学报,2021,6(04):323-329.
　LI Xin,YANG Qiuhua,GONG Jianpei*.Interpretation of the Embroidery Features of the Clothing in Elizabeth I’s Portrait[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2021,6(04):323-329.
点击复制

伊丽莎白一世肖像画中服饰刺绣特征的解读()
分享到：

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第6卷
期数:
2021年04期
页码:
323-329
栏目:
服装历史与文化
出版日期:
2021-08-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Interpretation of the Embroidery Features of the Clothing in Elizabeth I’s Portrait
作者:
李 鑫1;  杨秋华2;  龚建培*1
1.南京艺术学院 设计学院,江苏 南京210013; 2.深圳职业技术学院 艺术设计学院,广东 深圳 518000
Author(s):
LI Xin1;  YANG Qiuhua2;  GONG Jianpei*1
1. School of Design, Nanjing University of the Arts, Nanjing 210013, China; 2. School of Art and Design, Shenzhen Polytechnic, Shenzhen 518000, China
分类号:
J 53
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
都铎王朝是英国君主专制的黄金时期,经济、文化的繁荣促进了刺绣工艺的快速发展。基于英国女王伊丽莎白一世的肖像画,采用文献学和图像学的研究方法,分析和阐述了16世纪英国服饰刺绣工艺、材料及其艺术特征,并在此基础上以伊丽莎白一世3个时期(公主时期、统治盛期、统治晚期)的不同肖像画为依据,探讨了不同时期都铎王朝服饰刺绣的应用方式和纹样意象,以及服饰刺绣对伊丽莎白一世“童贞女王”君王形象的塑造作用。
Abstract:
The Tudor Dynasty was the golden age of absolute monarchy in England. The prosperity of economy and culture promoted the rapid development of embroidery technology. Based on the portrait of Queen Elizabeth I of England, this paper analyzes and expounds the 16th century British clothing embroidery craft, material and artistic features by means of philo-logy and iconography. And the study takes the portraits of Elizabeth I in three different periods(the princess period, the heyday, the late period), discusses the application mode and pattern meaning of Tudor Dynasty costume embroidery in different periods,and to shape the image of the "virgin queen" of Elizabeth I.

参考文献/References:

[1] ZEILINGER D. Golden threads and silken gardens 14th century English medieval embroidery[D].London:Christie’s Education,2001.
[2] HAYWARD M. Luxury or magnificence? dress at the court of henry VIII[J]. Costume, 1996, 30(1): 37- 46.
[3] KLEIN L M. Your humble handmaid: Elizabethan gifts of needlework[J]. Renaissance Quarterly, 1997, 50(2): 459- 493.
[4] 谭赛花. 16世纪英国抑奢法对服饰的管制[J]. 世界历史, 2009(2): 88-95.
TAN Saihua. The regulation of dress by the law of extra-vagance in 16th century England[J]. World History, 2009(2): 88-95.(in Chinese)
[5] 张殿清. 英国都铎宫廷炫耀式消费的政治意蕴[J]. 史学集刊, 2010(5): 87-93.
ZHANG Dianqing. The political meaning of conspicuous consumption in the Tudor court[J]. Collected Papers of History Studies, 2010(5): 87-93.(in Chinese)
[6] 张楚涵. 从肖像画看伊丽莎白一世服饰中的性别与权力象征[J]. 艺术教育, 2020(1): 162-165.
ZHANG Chuhan. A study of gender and power symbols in the dress of Elizabeth I from the portrait[J]. Art Education, 2020(1): 162-165.(in Chinese)
[7] 艾莉森·威尔. 伊丽莎白女王[M]. 北京: 社会科学文献出版社, 2014.
[8] MORRALL A, WATT M. English embroidery from the metropolitan museum of art, 1580—1700:’twixt art and nature’[M].New York:The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design, and Culture,2009:99-106.
[9] 蒋熙. 伊利莎白时期的英国服饰[J]. 国外丝绸, 2003, 18(4): 38- 41.
JIANG Xi. Elizabethan England dress[J]. Silk Textile Technology Overseas, 2003, 18(4): 38- 41.(in Chinese)
[10] SYNGE L. Art of embroidery: history of style and technique[M].Woodbridge:Antique Collectors’ Club,2001:76-78.
[11] 李当岐. 西洋服装史[M]. 北京: 高等教育出版社, 2010.
[12] 李维贤, 乔菲男. 从肖像画看都铎王室服装[J]. 装饰, 2012(5): 139-140.
LI Weixian, QIAO Feinan. Tudor royal costume in portraiture[J]. Art and Design, 2012(5): 139-140.(in Chinese)(责任编辑:邢宝妹)

更新日期/Last Update: 2021-08-30