[1]徐小盼,王 蕾*.明代道袍的结构分析与复原[J].服装学报,2023,8(05):384-390.
　XU Xiaopan,WANG Lei*.Structural Analysis and Restoration of Taoist Robes in Ming Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2023,8(05):384-390.
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明代道袍的结构分析与复原()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第8卷
期数:
2023年05期
页码:
384-390
栏目:
服装工程
出版日期:
2023-10-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Structural Analysis and Restoration of Taoist Robes in Ming Dynasty
作者:
徐小盼;  王 蕾*
江南大学 设计学院,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
XU Xiaopan;  WANG Lei*
School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China
分类号:
TS 941.2
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
为了厘清明代道袍的结构特征,运用三重证据法,以墓葬出土以及孔府旧藏的11件明代道袍作为实物依托,结合图像文献,分析明代道袍的形制与结构,开展实证分析,进行结构复原。研究表明:明代道袍的形制为上下通裁,大襟右衽,衣身从腰部往下呈A字形,长度及踝; 结构上,领型主要为交领,有直下断衽、斜下断衽、续衽3种形态; 袖型分为小袖收袂和大袖收袂2种; 衣身前后有中缝,通过3组绑带系结固定; 下摆为典型的两侧开叉暗摆,分为普通型、省略型、拼补型3种。
Abstract:
To elucidate the structural characteristics of Taoist robes from Ming Dynasty, the triple evidence method was used to analyze the shape and structure of these robes. This paper involved an empirical analysis and structural restoration based on 11 Ming Dynasty Taoist robes unearthed from tombs and old collections at Confucius Mansion, supplemented by image documentation. The research indicates that the shape of Taoist robes from Ming Dynasty is designed to be cut from top to bottom, featuring a prominent front and a right hem. The body is adopted an A-shaped design from the waist downward, extending to the ankles. Structurally, the predominant collar design is the cross-collar, presented in three forms: straight-down break, oblique-down break, and continuation. Sleeve styles are divided into two main types: short-sleeve and long-sleeve. The center seam at the front and back of the robe is fastened by three sets of straps, and their lower hems typically featured a dual-side split with concealed stitching, further classified into three types: standard, predominant and patchwork.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2023-10-31