[1]杨 雪,陈诗莹.民国旗袍裁制之量身采寸法[J].服装学报,2023,8(05):377-383.
　YANG Xue,CHEN Shiying.Measuring Method of Cheongsam in the Republic of China[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2023,8(05):377-383.
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民国旗袍裁制之量身采寸法()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第8卷
期数:
2023年05期
页码:
377-383
栏目:
服装工程
出版日期:
2023-10-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Measuring Method of Cheongsam in the Republic of China
作者:
杨 雪;  陈诗莹
浙江科技学院 艺术设计与服装学院,浙江 杭州 310023
Author(s):
YANG Xue;  CHEN Shiying
Art Design and Fashion Institute, Zhejiang University of Science and Technology, Hangzhou 310023, China
分类号:
TS 941; J 523
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
从民初到20世纪40年代末期,随着不同时期旗袍廓形曲线的变化,量身采寸的方法也随之改变,尺寸采集位置从最初的几处到后来十几处、几十处,勾勒出民国时期对女性身体的社会性审美与旗袍廓形的时代审美演变。通过图文对照,对民国旗袍裁制中量身采寸法的演进历程进行梳理及分析。研究认为:民国旗袍量身采寸法的变革受到旗袍款式和结构改良的影响; 透过民国旗袍量身采寸法的改良历程,可以看到旗袍造型的变化依从于对女性身体审美的变迁,从古典一步步走向现代。研究结论对新时代服装设计师探寻并传承经典中装文化与重塑中装审美有启发意义。
Abstract:
From the early Republic of China period to the late 1940s, the methods of tailoring measurements for the cheongsam(a traditional Chinese dress)underwent changes, concomitant with alterations in the silhouette curves across different eras. The collection of dimensions evolved from initially a few locations to subsequently dozens, delineating the sociocultural aesthetic towards the female body and the temporal aesthetic evolution of the cheongsam silhouette during the Republic of China era. Through a comparative analysis of images and texts, this study organized and analyzed the evolutionary process of tailoring measurement methods in cheongsam crafting during the Republic of China. The research posits that the transformation of cheongsam tailoring measurement methods is influenced by modifications in cheongsam styles and structures. Through the refinement process of cheongsam tailoring measurement methods during this period, it is observable that alterations in cheongsam styling adhered to transitions in the aesthetic appreciation of the female body, progressively moving from classical to modern. The research conclusions offer insightful implications for contemporary fashion designers in exploring and inheriting classic Chinese dress culture, as well as in reshaping the aesthetics of Chinese attire.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2023-10-31