[1]高 光,高 畅,高 丽.基于重力平衡的袖子结构设计“2A”原理[J].服装学报,2020,5(06):493-497.
 GAO Guang,GAO Chang,GAO Li.2A Principle of Sleeve Structure Design Based on Gravity Balance[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(06):493-497.
点击复制

基于重力平衡的袖子结构设计“2A”原理()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第5卷
期数:
2020年06期
页码:
493-497
栏目:
服装工程技术
出版日期:
2020-12-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
2A Principle of Sleeve Structure Design Based on Gravity Balance
作者:
高 光;  高 畅;  高 丽
涿州高红服饰设计工作室,河北 涿州 072750
Author(s):
GAO Guang;  GAO Chang;  GAO Li
Zhuozhou Gaohong Fashion Design Studio,Zhuozhou 072750,China
分类号:
TS 941.7
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
基于人体静态和动态特征进行袖子结构设计,通过人体工学与结构力学的方法,分析袖子的运动功能、重力平衡形态和结构重力平衡机理,找到决定袖子结构重力平衡的人体关键点和关键角,从而提出袖子结构设计“2A”原理。采用此原理量取人体角度参数,顺应不同体型的手臂特征,从根本上解决了依靠经验数据制板和装袖难以预判袖子穿着效果的问题。
Abstract:
The sleeve structure was designed based on the static and dynamic characteristics of human body. Through the methods of ergonomics and structural mechanics, the motion function, gravity balance form and structure gravity balance mechanism of the sleeve were analyzed. The key points and key angles of human body that determine the gravity balance of sleeve structure were found. Then, the "2A" principle of sleeve structure design was put forward. This principle measured the angle parameters of human body and adapted to the arm characteristics of different body types, which fundamentally solved the problem that it was difficult to predict the wearing effect of sleeves by relying on empirical data for plate making and sleeve fitting.

参考文献/References:

[1] 刘瑞璞.服装纸样设计原理与应用(女装篇)[M]. 北京:中国纺织出版社,2008.
[2] 海伦. 高级服装结构设计与纸样(基础篇)[M]. 王建萍,译.上海:东华大学出版社,2013.
[3] 吴正春,孙见梅.袖原型的结构设计[J].纺织导报,2018(3):89-90.
WU Zhengchun, SUN Jianmei. Prototype structural design of sleeve[J]. China Textile Leader, 2018(3): 89-90.(in Chinese)
[4] 高秋香,颜丽婷.浅析中西服装中女装袖型结构变化[J].山东纺织经济,2016(4):38- 41.
GAO Qiuxiang, YAN Liting. Analysis on the structural change of women’s sleeve in Chinese and western clothing[J]. Shandong Textile Economy, 2016(4): 38- 41.(in Chinese)
[5] 张莉,沈雷.人体体型特征与服装结构平衡初探[J].武汉纺织大学学报,2018,31(4):13-17.
ZHANG Li, SHEN Lei. Study on human characteristics and the balance of clothing structure[J]. Journal of Wuhan Textile University 2018,31(4):13-17.(in Chinese)
[6] 于晓坤,尹平玉,何海洋.女装圆装袖袖窿三维形态虚拟模型的建立[J].东华大学学报(社会科学版),2011,37(6):731-735.
YU Xiaokun, YIN Pingyu, HE Haiyang. Establishment of virtual three-dimensional armhole model for women’s basic suit-dress sleeve[J]. Journal of Donghua University(Natural Science Edition), 2011,37(6): 731-735.(in Chinese)
[7] 缪晓燕.女性特殊体型袖子看图制版关键技术研究[J]. 江苏丝绸,2016(5):28-30,27.
MU Xiaoyan. Research on key technologies of plate making for women’s special body type top[J]. Jiangsu Silk, 2016(5): 28-30,27.(in Chinese)
[8] 于晓景.肩袖造型设计——浅谈女装肩、袖部位结构配比关系[J].东华大学学报(社会科学版),2012,12(4):241-245,251.
YU Xiaojing.Shoulder sleeve modeling design—on the structural matching relationship between shoulder and sleeve parts of women’s clothing[J]. Journal of Donghua University(Social Science Edition), 2012,12(4): 241-245,251.(in Chinese)
[9] 高秋香,武家欢,王春.袖山在现代女装中的创新设计与应用[J].山东纺织经济,2016(2):36-39.
GAO Qiuxiang, WU Jiahuan, WANG Chun. Innovative design and application of sleeve mountain in modern women’s wear[J]. Shandong Textile Economy, 2016(2): 36-39.(in Chinese)
[10] 张蒙.女装袖型结构设计[J].轻纺工业与技术,2017(4):26-28,57.
ZHANG Meng. Sleeve structure design of women’s wear[J]. Light Textile Industry and Technology,2017(4): 26-28,57.(in Chinese)
[11] 武利利.女装袖结构变化设计[J].国际纺织导报,2018(1):52-55
WU Lili. Structural change design of women’s sleeves[J]. Melliand China,2018(1): 52-55.(in Chinese)
(责任编辑:张 雪)

相似文献/References:

[1]袁 为.公主线连衣裙原型在合体型连衣裙制板中的应用[J].服装学报,2017,2(04):312.
 YUAN Wei.Research on Application of Princess Line Cutting to Pattern Design for Fitted Dresses[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2017,2(06):312.
[2]高 光,高 畅,张佳昊.基于重力平衡的定制裤子“2A”原理[J].服装学报,2019,4(06):515.
 GAO Guang,GAO Chang,ZHANG Jiahao."2A" Principle Based on Gravity Balance in the Process of Customizing Pants[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(06):515.
[3]高 光,高 畅,高 丽.基于重力平衡的定制上衣“2A”原理[J].服装学报,2021,6(06):497.
 GAO Guang,GAO Chang,GAO LI.2A Principle Based on Gravity Balance of Customizing Garment[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2021,6(06):497.

更新日期/Last Update: 2020-12-31