[1]贾玺增,崔 闯.明清纺织服饰灯笼纹[J].服装学报,2020,5(01):66-77.
 JIA Xizeng,CUI Chuang.Lantern Patterns of Textiles and Clothing in Ming and Qing Dynasties[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(01):66-77.
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明清纺织服饰灯笼纹()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第5卷
期数:
2020年01期
页码:
66-77
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2020-03-09

文章信息/Info

Title:
Lantern Patterns of Textiles and Clothing in Ming and Qing Dynasties
作者:
贾玺增;  崔 闯
清华大学 美术学院,北京 100084
Author(s):
JIA Xizeng;  CUI Chuang
Academy of Arts and Design, Tsinghua University, Beijing 100084, China
分类号:
J 51
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
灯笼纹是以灯笼作为题材的一种纹样,因其多用于织锦的花纹,故也称为“灯笼锦”。通过对明清时代灯笼纹织物实物、图录纹样与文献古籍的研究,并与明清前灯笼纹样进行比较,初步厘清灯笼纹的发展脉络,明确灯笼纹在明清时代的发展状况、纹样特点和应用范畴。研究结果表明:灯笼纹作为中国传统装饰纹样之一,首见于辽代丝绸夹缬中,大量出现在宋元著作中,是宋代流行的一种锦纹; 明清时期灯笼纹有了长足的发展,并延展出腊梅花朵形、荷塘莲花形、银锭元宝形、如意形、八角形等多种造型,传递了五谷丰登、天下乐等多种寓意,广泛应用于书籍装帧、珠宝首饰、服装、鞋履、帽饰等方面。
Abstract:
Lantern pattern is a kind of pattern with lantern as the theme. It is also called Lantern brocade because it is mostly used as the pattern of brocade. Through the research on the material objects, the patterns in the catalogue and the ancient books in Ming and Qing Dynasties, and the comparative study on the patterns in other times, the development of Lantern patterns is preliminarily clarified, especially the research on the development status, the characteristics and the application scope of Lantern patterns in Ming and Qing Dynasties. As one of the traditional decorative patterns in China, lantern pattern is first seen in Jiaxie of Liao Dynasty in silk, and widely seen in works of Song and Yuan Dynasties in historical materials. As a popular pattern of brocade in Song Dynasty, lantern pattern was also widely used in Ming and Qing Dynasties. By the time of Ming and Qing Dynasties, lantern pattern had developed into many forms, including flower shape of wintersweet, lotus shape of lotus pond, treasure shape of silver ingot, Ruyi shape, octagonal shape, etc, It implies "a good harvest of grain"(Wugu Fengdeng)and "a happy world"(Tianxia Le), and is fully used in book binding, jewelry, various clothing, shoes, hats, accessories and other fields.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2020-02-29