[1]吴志明,杜 程,孙 涛.宋代节日赏赐宋锦的历史成因及文化内涵[J].服装学报,2025,10(03):217-220.
　WU Zhiming,DU Cheng,SUN Tao.Historical Genesis and Cultural Significance of Song Brocade in Festival Bestowals During the Song Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2025,10(03):217-220.
点击复制

宋代节日赏赐宋锦的历史成因及文化内涵()

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第10卷
期数:
2025年03期
页码:
217-220
栏目:
服饰文化
出版日期:
2025-07-01

文章信息/Info

Title:
Historical Genesis and Cultural Significance of Song Brocade in Festival Bestowals During the Song Dynasty
作者:
吴志明1;  杜 程2;  孙 涛1
1.江南大学 数字科技与创意设计学院,江苏 无锡 214401; 2.山西大学 美术学院,山西 太原 030006
Author(s):
WU Zhiming1;  DU Cheng2;  SUN Tao1
1.School of Digital Technology and Innovation Design, Jiangnan University, 214401, China; 2.Academy of Fine Arts, Shanxi University, Taiyuan 030006,China
分类号:
TS 941.12; J 523.1
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
宋代节日赏赐制度作为中国古代政治文明的重要组成部分,既是辅助君王治理国家的柔性纽带,也是礼制秩序的具象化表达。采用图史互证法,系统梳理宋代节日赏赐体系中宋锦的名目沿革与使用场景,剖析其纹样符号的艺术特质与生成逻辑,探究其承载的政治隐喻与文化基因。研究表明:在宋代,宋锦是节日赏赐体系中的重要物质载体; 统治者制定了详细的宋锦赏赐制度,体现着其在政治上以赏固权、思想上以赏显德的双重治国策略; 宋锦赏赐制度推动了宋锦在技术层面的不断革新,呈现 “以赏促技” 的特点。研究成果有助于推动宋锦文化的传承,还原宋代节日的真实风貌,为宋代赏赐制度理论研究提供新思路。
Abstract:
As a crucial component of ancient Chinese political civilization, the festival bestowal system of the Song Dynasty served not only as a flexible bond for national governance but also as a concrete manifestation of ritual order. This study employs the method of mutual verification between iconography and historical texts, examines the nomenclature evolution and application domains of Song brocade within the festival reward system systematically, analyzes the artistic characteristics and generative logic of its decorative patterns, and deciphers the political metaphors and cultural genes embedded within. The research reveals that Song brocade, as a significant material medium in imperial reward system, was propelled by dual imperial demands: consolidating political authority through rewards and manifesting moral virtue through bestowals. This objectively propelled continuous technological innovations in brocade production, demonstrating a developmental trajectory of "reward-driven technological advancement". The findings contribute to preserving Song brocade cultural heritage, reconstructing authentic features of Song festival customs, and providing new perspectives for theoretical research on Song Dynasty bestowal system.

参考文献/References:

[1] 程民生. 斑斓集萃: 宋锦的色泽及功用[J]. 江西社会科学, 2022, 42(5): 42-55.
CHENG Minsheng. Colorful collection: color and function of Song brocade[J]. Jiangxi Social Sciences, 2022, 42(5): 42-55.(in Chinese)
[2] 郭建伟, 沈惠, 聂开伟. 基于3D技术的宋锦织造技艺传承[J]. 丝绸, 2020, 57(9): 78-83.
GUO Jianwei, SHEN Hui, NIE Kaiwei. Inheritance of Song brocade weaving technology based on 3D technology[J]. Journal of Silk, 2020, 57(9): 78-83.(in Chinese)
[3] 陈越, 吴又进, 王晨. 宋锦名称考[J]. 中国科技史杂志, 2018(4): 403- 413.
CHEN Yue, WU Youjin, WANG Chen. The research on the traditional craft of Song brocade[J]. Journal of the History of Chinese Science and Technology, 2018(4): 403- 413.
[4] 温润, 王桂芳, 吴思洋, 等. 基于生织匹染工艺的宋锦产品设计[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2022, 30(2): 141-147, 168.
WEN Run, WANG Guifang, WU Siyang, et al. Design of Song brocade products based on the raw fabric piece dyeing process[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2022, 30(2): 141-147, 168.(in Chinese)
[5] 王艳. 宋朝物质赏赐研究[D]. 开封: 河南大学, 2013.
[6] 李静. 宋代赏赐述论[D]. 成都: 四川师范大学, 2015.
[7] 商务印书馆编辑部. 辞源: 修订稿[M]. 北京: 商务印书馆, 1964.
[8] 吴志明, 杜程, 孙涛. 宋锦八达晕纹样嬗变及文化意蕴探析[J]. 丝绸, 2024, 61(5): 105-110.
WU Zhiming, DU Cheng, SUN Tao. Study on the evolution of the Song brocade Badayun pattern and its cultural implication[J]. Journal of Silk, 2024, 61(5): 105-110.(in Chinese)
[9] 吴志明, 杜程, 孙涛. 宋代官服中绶带纹样探析[J]. 丝绸, 2024, 61(2): 125-130.
WU Zhiming, DU Cheng, SUN Tao. An analysis of ribbon patterns in official clothing of the Song Dynasty[J]. Journal of Silk, 2024, 61(2): 125-130.(in Chinese)
[10] 朱瑞熙. 宋代的节日[J]. 上海师范大学学报(哲学社会科学版), 1987, 16(3): 74-80.
ZHU Ruixi. Festivals in Song dynasty[J]. Journal of Shanghai Normal University(Philosophy and Social Sciences Edition), 1987, 16(3):74-80.(in Chinese)
[11] 李焘. 续资治通鉴长篇[M]. 北京: 中华书局, 2004: 9.
[12] 脱脱. 宋史[M]. 北京:中华书局, 1985: 2672.
[13] 黄清穗, 韦文翔. “纹样” 的词义变化与观念发展探究[J]. 艺术探索, 2023, 37(5): 87-92.
HUANG Qingsui, WEI Wenxiang. On the evolution in lexical meaning and conceptual development of the term "pattern"[J]. Arts Exploration, 2023, 37(5): 87-92.(in Chinese)
[14] 李 正, 贾淑琦, 方婷玉, 等. 中国文化视角下丝巾之源变[J]. 服装学报, 2025, 10(2): 140-147.
LI Qizheng, JIA Shuqi, FANG Tingyu, et al. Origin of silk scarves in the perspective of Chinese culture[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2025, 10(2): 140-147.(in Chinese)
[15] 黄淮,杨士奇. 历代名臣奏议[M]. 影印本. 上海: 上海古籍出版社, 2012: 2486.
[16] 张方平. 张方平集[M]. 郑州: 中州古籍出版社, 1992: 334.
[17] 苏静, 李越, 张毅. 宋代织绣品中折枝花纹的艺术特征与文化意蕴[J]. 丝绸, 2023, 60(3): 140-148.
SU Jing, LI Yue, ZHANG Yi. Artistic characteristics and cultural implications of patterns of twigs with flowers in textiles and embroideries in the Song Dynasty[J]. Journal of Silk, 2023, 60(3): 140-148.(in Chinese)
[18] 张春明, 李树霞. 1980—2023年明代民间女服研究回顾与展望[J]. 服装学报, 2024, 9(6): 521-529.
ZHANG Chunming, LI Shuxia. Review and prospect of research on Ming Dynasty folk women’s clothing from 1980 to 2023[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2024, 9(6): 521-529.(in Chinese)
(责任编辑:卢 杰)

更新日期/Last Update: 2025-06-30