[1]周 莹.21世纪以来跨学科视阈下少数民族刺绣艺术文化研究[J].服装学报,2024,9(05):425-432.
 ZHOU Ying.Research on Ethnic Minority Embroidery Art and Culture from an Interdisciplinary Perspective Since the 21st Century[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2024,9(05):425-432.
点击复制

21世纪以来跨学科视阈下少数民族刺绣艺术文化研究()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第9卷
期数:
2024年05期
页码:
425-432
栏目:
民族服装
出版日期:
2024-11-01

文章信息/Info

Title:
Research on Ethnic Minority Embroidery Art and Culture from an Interdisciplinary Perspective Since the 21st Century
作者:
周 莹1; 2
1.中央民族大学 美术学院,北京 100081; 2.中华人民共和国文化和旅游部 文化和旅游研究基地,北京 100081
Author(s):
ZHOU Ying1; 2
1. Academy of Fine Arts, Minzu University of China, Beijing 100081,China; 2. Culture and Tourism Research Base, Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the People’s Republic of China, Beijing 100081,China
分类号:
J 523.6
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
系统梳理21世纪以来与少数民族刺绣相关的人类学、考古学、历史学、社会学、民俗学、艺术学等人文社会学科研究成果,分析学界尤其是国内学者诠释少数民族刺绣文化的理论成果,了解跨学科学者针对少数民族刺绣研究的不同视角和方法,便于后续跨学科研究的进一步拓展和探索。研究认为,少数民族刺绣跨学科研究日益深入,且呈现出以问题为导向带动多学科交叉合作、注重将研究落地并从宏观上对少数民族刺绣整体观照的发展趋势,这将为新时代学科内涵式发展与中国特色自主知识体系构建奠定坚实基础并提供重要支撑。
Abstract:
A systematic review was conducted on the relevant research of anthropology, archaeology, history, sociology, folklore, art and other humanities and social disciplines related to ethnic minority embroidery since the 21st century. It analyzed the theoretical achievements of scholars, especially domestic scholars, in interpreting the embroidery culture of ethnic minorities to understand the different perspectives and methods of interdisciplinary scholars on ethnic minority embroidery research, so as to conducive to the further expansion and exploration of interdisciplinary research in the future. The results show that with the continuous deepening of interdisciplinary research on ethnic minority embroidery, there is a trend of problem oriented interdisciplinary cooperation, emphasizing the implementation of research and the overall observation of ethnic minority embroidery from a macro perspective. This will lay a solid foundation and provide important support for the connotative development of disciplines in the new era and the construction of independent knowledge systems with Chinese characteristics.

参考文献/References:

[1] 方李莉. 技艺传承与社会发展——艺术人类学视角[J]. 江南大学学报(人文社会科学版), 2011, 10(3): 97-109.
FANG Lili. Skill inheritance and social development—from art and anthropological perspectives[J]. Journal of Jiangnan University(Humanities and Social Sciences Edition), 2011, 10(3): 97-109.(in Chinese)
[2] 王亚蓉. 中国刺绣[M]. 沈阳: 万卷出版公司, 2018.
[3] 李楠. 东疆维吾尔族织绣纹样研究[D]. 济南: 山东大学, 2018.
[4] 曹亚男. 湘西苗族踏虎凿花研究[D]. 赣州: 赣南师范学院, 2012.
[5] 马熙逵. 羌绣文化生态属性及当代价值研究[D]. 上海: 上海大学, 2016.
[6] 何兆华. 花样本:贵州苗族刺绣技艺传承与地方社会[J].民俗曲艺, 2016(6): 97-165.
HE Zhaohua. Embroidered images: women’s inheritance of embroidery techniques and local Miao communities in Guizhou Province [J]. Folk Quyi, 2016(6): 97-165.(in Chinese)
[7] 叶荫茵. 苗绣商品化视域下苗族女性社会性别角色的重塑——基于贵州省台江县施洞镇的个案研究[J]. 民俗研究, 2017(3): 86-92, 158-159.
YE Yinyin. Commodification of Miao embroidery and reconfiguration of gender roles: a case study of Miao ethnic group in Shidong Town, Guizhou Province[J]. Folklore Studies, 2017(3): 86-92, 158-159.(in Chinese)
[8] 邓启耀.中国传统刺绣工艺的多重文化遗产价值[C]//邓启耀.中国传统刺绣研究——首届中国非物质文化(刺绣)遗产国际论坛论文集.北京:科学出版社,2020.
[9] 鸟丸贞惠. 织就岁月的人们:中国贵州苗族染织探访20年[M]. 福冈: 西日本新闻社, 2006.
[10] 张启旭,王宏付.筠连苗绣的艺术特征及针法技艺考究[J].服装学报,2023,8(6):539-545.
ZHANG Qixu,WANG Hongfu.Research on the artistic characteristics and needlework skills of Junlian Miao embroidery[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2023,8(6):539-545.(in Chinese)
[11] 杨尔雅,柴娟.陕西宁强羌绣纹样艺术分析及其创新设计[J].服装学报,2023,8(3):265-275.
YANG Erya,CHAI Juan.Artistic analysis and innovative design of the Qiang ethnic embroidery patterns in Ningqiang, Shaanxi[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2023,8(3):265-275.(in Chinese)
[12] 万顺. 文化书写与历史记忆: Hmong人“刺绣故事布” 艺术[J]. 贵州民族研究, 2019, 40(8): 69-75.
WAN Shun. Cultural writing and historical memory: the art of "embroidery story cloth" by Hmong people[J]. Guizhou Ethnic Studies, 2019, 40(8): 69-75.(in Chinese)
[13] 赵胜男, 王晓艳. 美国瑶族身份认同的物化表达——以“尤勉” 刺绣与服饰为例[J]. 民族论坛, 2014(8): 85-88.
ZHAO Shengnan, WANG Xiaoyan. The materialized expression of the identity of Yao nationality in America—taking "youmian" embroidery and costume as an example[J]. Minzu Tribune, 2014(8): 85-88.(in Chinese)
[14] 王庆贺, 柏贵喜. 圈层叠合: 婚姻圈中的绣娘流动与苗族刺绣基因传递[J]. 广西民族研究, 2021(4): 116-125.
WANG Qinghe, BAI Guixi. The overlap of circles: the marriage migration of embroidery women and the genetic transmission of Miao embroidery[J]. Guangxi Ethnic Studies, 2021(4): 116-125.(in Chinese)
[15] 章海虹. “非遗” 视角下中国民族刺绣地域性图案学研究[J]. 艺术与设计(理论), 2015(10): 128-130.
ZHANG Haihong. Chinese national embroidery regional pattern studies under the "intangible culture heritage" perspective[J]. Art and Design(Theory), 2015(10): 128-130.(in Chinese)
[16] 肖锟, 马诚. 新疆锡伯族刺绣文化的历史继承及前景探析[J]. 新疆社会科学, 2014(6): 107-112.
XIAO Kun, MA Cheng. Historical inheritance and prospect of Xibo embroidery culture in Xinjiang[J]. Social Sciences in Xinjiang, 2014(6): 107-112.(in Chinese)
[17] 丁荣泉, 龙湘平. 苗族刺绣发展源流及其造型艺术特征[J]. 中南民族大学学报(人文社会科学版), 2003, 23(4): 25-28.
DING Rongquan, LONG Xiangping. Analyzation to the embroidery by Miao nationality[J]. Journal of South-Central University for Nationalities(Philosophy and Social Science), 2003, 23(4): 25-28.(in Chinese)
[18] 周乙陶. 文化变迁中的苗绣[M]. 武汉: 湖北人民出版社, 2011.
[19] 麻国庆. 跨界的人类学与文化田野[J]. 广西民族大学学报(哲学社会科学版), 2015, 37(4): 39- 43.
MA Guoqing. Transboundary anthropology and cultural fieldwork[J]. Journal of Guangxi University for Nationalities(Philosophy and Social Science Edition), 2015, 37(4): 39- 43.(in Chinese)
[20] 熊瑛. 地方志中民间手工艺史料的发掘与利用——以明代织绣为例[J]. 民族艺术研究, 2016, 29(2): 234-241.
XIONG Ying. Exploration and utilization of the historical materials of folk crafts in chorography—taking Ming Dynasty embroidery as example[J]. Ethnic Art Studies, 2016, 29(2): 234-241.(in Chinese)
[21] 林毅红. 贵州水族马尾绣背带“奢” 与“朴” 的文化解读[J]. 贵州民族研究, 2010, 31(5): 54-57.
LIN Yihong. Some understandings of the luxury and simplicity culture of Shui zu nationality’s specialty, a kind of strap embroidery nade of horsetail called horsetail embroidery of Guizhou Province[J]. Guizhou Ethnic Studies, 2010, 31(5): 54-57.(in Chinese)
[22] 李宏复.中国少数民族刺绣工艺文化的抢救与保护[C]//艺术人类学与当代社会发展——2015年中国艺术人类学学术研讨会论文集(上).无锡:中国艺术人类学学会,2015.
[23] 刘超, 郑强, 梁列峰. 黔东南苗族堆绣绣片工艺分析与复原[J]. 服装学报, 2020, 5(6): 498-502.
LIU Chao, ZHENG Qiang, LIANG Liefeng. Analysis and restoration of the heap embroidery of Miao in southeast Guizhou[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2020, 5(6): 498-502.(in Chinese)
[24] 葛又铭. 浅谈少数民族刺绣文物的保护修复——以一件传世苗族刺绣背带的保护修复为例[J].民博论丛, 2017(1): 21-28.
GE Youming. A brief discussion on the protection and restoration of ethnic minority embroidery cultural relics—taking the protection and restoration of a embroidered baby-carrying strap of Miao as an example[J]. Minbo Luncong, 2017(1): 21-28.(in Chinese)
[25] 姚莉, 田兆元. 基于民俗叙事路径的“认同性经济” 建构——以传统手工技艺类非遗侗族刺绣为研究对象[J]. 贵州民族研究, 2021, 42(4): 88-97.
YAO Li, TIAN Zhaoyuan. The construction of "identity economy" based on the path of folklore narrative: take intangible cultural heritage of traditional handicrafts Dong embroidery as an example[J]. Guizhou Ethnic Studies, 2021, 42(4): 88-97.(in Chinese)
[26] 裴谕新. 性、社会性别与充权: 关于四川地震灾区妇女刺绣小组领袖的个案研究[J]. 妇女研究论丛, 2011(5): 34- 46.
PEI Yuxin. Gender, sexuality and empowerment: a case study of women leaders in embroidery groups after the Sichuan earthquakes on May 12[J]. Collection of Women’s Studies, 2011(5): 34- 46.(in Chinese)
[27] 敖惠. 民族文化知识产权保护解析——以水族马尾绣为例[J]. 贵州民族研究, 2018, 39(6): 18-22.
AO Hui. The protection of intellectual property rights of ethnic culture: a case of Shui nationality’s cauda embroidery[J]. Guizhou Ethnic Studies, 2018, 39(6): 18-22.(in Chinese)
[28] 方健. 中国传统刺绣的社会文化史解析[J]. 丝绸, 2014, 51(12): 56- 63.
FANG Jian. Analysis on social and cultural history of Chinese traditional embroidery[J]. Journal of Silk, 2014, 51(12): 56- 63.(in Chinese)
[29] 高莉, 王京鑫, 牛乐. 乡村振兴背景下的妇女手工艺生产——临夏州东乡县刺绣扶贫车间调查研究[J]. 青海民族大学学报(社会科学版), 2022, 48(1): 51-57.
GAO Li, WANG Jingxin, NIU Le. Women’s handicraft production under the background of rural revitalization—investigation of embroidery poverty reduction workshop in Dongxiang County, Linxia Prefecture[J]. Journal of Qinghai Minzu University(Social Sciences), 2022, 48(1): 51-57.(in Chinese)
[30] TORIMARU T. Similarities of Miao embroidery and ancient Chinese embroidery and their cultural implications[J]. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 2011, 15(1): 52-57.
[31] 刘宗明, 陈旭辉. 基于跨界思维下的瑶绣编织技艺与家具设计融合创新[J]. 家具与室内装饰, 2024, 31(6): 8-14.
LIU Zongming, CHEN Xuhui. The integration and innovation of Yao embroidery weaving technique and furniture under cross-border thinking[J]. Furniture and Interior Design, 2024, 31(6): 8-14.(in Chinese)
[32] 李智环, 徐黎丽. 人类学视野下的少数民族妇女经济组织研究——以新疆喀什地区疏勒县“迪丽凯西民族刺绣协会”为例[J]. 新疆社会科学, 2010(2): 109-114.
LI Zhihuan, XU Lili. A study on the economic organization of minority women from the perspective of anthropo-logy—a case study of "Dilikasi National Embroidery Association" in Shule County, Kashgar, Xinjiang[J]. Social Sciences in Xinjiang, 2010(2): 109-114.(in Chinese)
[33] 靳璨, 梁惠娥. 程式化与专业化: 清代女性服饰中的刺绣装饰[J]. 艺术设计研究, 2022(3): 36- 42.
JIN Can, LIANG Hui’e. Stylization and specialization: embroidery decoration in women’s clothing in the Qing Dynasty[J]. Art and Design Research, 2022(3): 36- 42.(in Chinese)
[34] 崔荣荣. 中国传统纺织服饰图案研究述评及价值阐释[J]. 包装工程, 2022, 43(6): 11-23, 401.
CUI Rongrong. Chinese costume culture and its value in the new era[J]. Packaging Engineering, 2022, 43(6): 11-23, 401.(in Chinese)
[35] 陈宇. 符号消费视角下羌族刺绣品牌视觉形象设计[J]. 贵州民族研究, 2017, 38(2): 128-131.
CHEN Yu. The design of Qiang embroidery brand image from the perspective of symbolic consumption[J]. Guizhou Ethnic Studies, 2017, 38(2): 128-131.(in Chinese)
[36] 匡迁.壮族传统刺绣在皮革时装中的创新设计应用[J].皮革科学与工程,2022,32(4):98-103.
KUANG Qian. Innovative design application of Zhuang traditional embroidery in leather fashion[J]. Leather Science and Engineering, 2022, 32(4): 98-103.(in Chinese)
[37] 罗婷,郑冬琴. 基于人工智能的传统手工艺彝族刺绣艺术设计融合创新研究[J]. 家具与室内装饰, 2024, 31(8): 17-23.
LUO Ting, ZHENG Dongqin.Research on the integration and innovation of traditional handicraft Yi embroidery art design based on artificial intelligence[J]. Furniture and Interior Design, 2024, 31(8): 17-23.(in Chinese)
[38] 张效娟. “非遗” 数字化保护中的“在场” 问题研探——以青海刺绣艺术数字化保护为例[J]. 青海民族研究, 2018, 29(2): 106-109.
ZHANG Xiaojuan. Research on the "presence" in the digital protection of "intangible cultural heritage" —taking the digital protection of Qinghai embroidery art as an example[J]. Qinghai Journal of Ethnology, 2018, 29(2): 106-109.(in Chinese)(责任编辑:沈天琦)

更新日期/Last Update: 2024-10-30