[1]付 爽,牛 犁*,崔荣荣.近代外销女褂形制及结构的实物考证[J].服装学报,2023,8(06):554-561.
　FU Shuang,NIU Li*,CUI Rongrong.Physical Research on the Shape and Structure of Modern Women’s Coats for Export[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2023,8(06):554-561.
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近代外销女褂形制及结构的实物考证()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第8卷
期数:
2023年06期
页码:
554-561
栏目:
服装时尚
出版日期:
2023-12-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Physical Research on the Shape and Structure of Modern Women’s Coats for Export
作者:
付 爽1;  牛 犁*1;  崔荣荣2
1.江南大学 设计学院,江苏 无锡 214122; 2.浙江理工大学 服装学院,浙江 杭州 310018)
Author(s):
FU Shuang1;  NIU Li*1;  CUI Rongrong2
1.School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China; 2.School of Fashion Design and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China
分类号:
TS 941.2
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
采用文献研究、图像视读、实物分析与归纳对比法,对近代外销服饰中对襟女褂形制与结构的差异进行研究,通过梳理广州博物馆馆藏中部分外销对襟女褂,从中选取3件有代表性的女褂实物作为研究样本,分析其款式廓形和裁剪结构,并对女褂不同部位进行对比,总结女褂各部位形制与结构差异。研究表明:女褂样本的形制差异体现在里襟的有与无,下摆的直与阔,袖身的扩与顺; 结构上的差异体现在肩线的平与顺,袖缝线的近与远。外销女褂形制结构上的变化与差异印证了中国传统服装形制的改良及西化过程,对其研究有助于对未来传统服饰的改良与创新提供新思路。
Abstract:
The article employs methods such as literature research, image reading, physical analysis and inductive comparison to investigate the differences in the shape and structure of women’s coats within modern exported costumes. The paper combs some women’s coats from the Guangzhou Museum, selecting three representative ones as research samples. It analyzes the outline shape and structure, comparing different parts of the women’s coats to summarize the differences in shape and structure for each component. The research shows that the shape differences among the three types of women’s coats manifest in the presence or absence of the clothing placket, the straightness and expansion of the hem, and the outward expansion and straightness of sleeve shape. The structural differences are reflected in the straightness and bending of the shoulder line, and the nearness and farness of the sleeve seam line. The changes and differences in the shape and structure of exported women’s coats demonstrate the improvement and westernization process of traditional Chinese clothing. Studying them can provide new ideas for enhancing and innovating future traditional clothing.

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(责任编辑:张 雪)



更新日期/Last Update: 2023-10-31