[1]徐雯琦,吴莹洁,赵伟楠,等.族群认同影响下的贵州畲族服饰发展变迁[J].服装学报,2020,5(06):520-526.
　XU Wenqi,WU Yingjie,ZHAO Weinan,et al.Development and Changes of the She Costume in Guizhou Under the Influence of Ethnic Identity[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(06):520-526.
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族群认同影响下的贵州畲族服饰发展变迁()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第5卷
期数:
2020年06期
页码:
520-526
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2020-12-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Development and Changes of the She Costume in Guizhou Under the Influence of Ethnic Identity
作者:
徐雯琦1;  吴莹洁1;  赵伟楠1;  陈敬玉*1; 2
1.浙江理工大学 服装学院,浙江 杭州 310018; 2.浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,浙江 杭州 310018
Author(s):
XU Wenqi1;  WU Yingjie1;  ZHAO Weinan1;  CHEN Jingyu*1; 2
1. School of Fashion Design and Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China; 2. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Hangzhou 310018, China
分类号:
TS 941.1
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
畲族是我国东南部的散杂居少数民族,民族服饰样式独特且分支众多。贵州畲族服饰样式特征与其他地区畲族服饰存在显著差异,这种差异与当地人在族群归属与身份认同方面的发展轨迹存在显著相关性。在田野调查的基础上,通过梳理历史资料,分析贵州畲族服饰上表现出来的族群认同特征,进而探索族群认同映射下的民族服饰变迁。研究结果表明,贵州畲族服饰由花袖衣、东家衣和凤凰衣3种典型样式构成,它们之间存在历史发展的承继关系且并存于当代,与族群认同变迁形成对照关系,同时贵州畲族对原生身份的认同是其服装核心元素得以传承的主要原因。
Abstract:
She is a scattered and mixed minority in the southeast of China, with unique ethnic costume and numerous branches.There are significant differences between the dress style of She in Guizhou and that of other areas, and these differences are significantly related to locals’ developmental trajectory in ethnic identity and self-identity. On the basis of field investigation and combing the historical date, the ethnic identity characteristics of the She ethnic group in Guizhou was analyzed, and the changes of ethnic costumes under the mapping of ethnic identity was explored as well. The research shows that the She costume in Guizhou is composed of three typical styles, namely huaxiu dress, dongjia dress and phoenix dress, which have the inheriting relationship of historical development and exist in the contemporary era, and form a significant contrast relationship with the change of ethnic identity. Meanwhile, the original identity of She in Guizhou is the main reason for the inheritance of the core elements.

参考文献/References:

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(责任编辑:邢宝妹)

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更新日期/Last Update: 1900-01-01