[1]梁惠娥,贾蕾蕾.近代汉族男服的研究现状与展望[J].服装学报,2020,5(06):513-519.
 LIANG Huie,JIA Leilei.Research Status and Prospect of Han Men’s Clothing in Modern Times[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(06):513-519.
点击复制

近代汉族男服的研究现状与展望()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第5卷
期数:
2020年06期
页码:
513-519
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2020-12-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Research Status and Prospect of Han Men’s Clothing in Modern Times
作者:
梁惠娥1; 2; 3;  贾蕾蕾1; 2
1.江南大学 纺织科学与工程学院,江苏 无锡 214122; 2.江南大学 江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏 无锡 214122; 3.无锡工艺职业技术学院 名师工作室,江苏 宜兴 214206
Author(s):
LIANG Hui’e1; 2; 3;  JIA Leilei1; 2
1.College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China; 2.Intangible Cultural Heritage Research Base in Jiangsu Province,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China; 3.Master Studio, Wuxi Vocational Institute of Arts and Technology,Yixing 214206,China
分类号:
TS 941.12
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
采用文献调研的方法对国内外近代汉族男服相关著作和论文的研究现状进行梳理分析,厘清近代汉族男服研究的整体框架,提出研究的不足与展望。认为应依托传世实物对近代汉族男服进行形制、色彩、面料等方面的考析,挖掘地域文化与服饰之间的关系,采用与现代科学技术复合交叉的研究方法,以建立健全近代汉族传统服饰文化的研究体系,推动近代汉族男服文化遗产的传承。
Abstract:
The literature research method was used to sort out and analyze the current situation of the books and publications of Han men’s clothing at home and abroad in modern times.This study clarified the overall framework of modern Han men’s clothing research, and tried to put forward the shortcomings and prospects. It is believed that the shape, color and fabric of Han men’s clothing in modern times should be analyzed to excavate the relationship between regional culture and clothing. The research method of modern science and technology should be combined to establish a well research system of Han traditional costume culture in modern times, and to promote the inheritance of the cultural heritage of Han men’s clothing in modern times.

参考文献/References:

[1] 马胜杰.“中华民族服饰文化研究”的价值要义与方法构建[J].艺术设计研究,2019(2):15-18.
MA Shengjie. Study of the Chinese national costume cultures: essential value and methodological construction [J]. Art and Design Research, 2019(2):15-18.(in Chinese)
[2] 丁锡强. 中华男装[M].上海:学林出版社,2008.
[3] 张福记. 近代中国社会演化与革命[M].北京:人民出版社, 2002:23.
[4] 崔荣荣,张竞琼. 近代汉族民间服饰全集[M].北京:中国轻工业出版社, 2009:26.
[5] 佚名. 服制:服制图[J]. 政府公报分类汇编,1915(4):107-111.
Anon. Apparel system:attached system map[J]. Classified Compilation of Government Gazette,1915(4):107-111.(in Chinese)
[6] 佚名. 服制(附图)[N]. 政府公报, 1912-10-04(4-9).
[7] 佚名. 国民政府法规:服制条例(附图)[J]. 山西省政公报, 1929(11):3-7.
Anon. Laws and regulations of the national government: regulations on the apparel system(attached map)[J]. Shanxi Provincial Government Gazette, 1929(11):3-7.(in Chinese)
[8] 中国第二历史档案馆.修正服制条例草案[A]. 全宗号:一二(6),案卷号:16400,1939.
[9] 袁仄,胡月.百年衣裳:20世纪中国服装流变[M]. 北京:生活·读书·新知三联书店, 2010:15.
[10] 华梅.中国近现代服装史[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2008:53.
[11] 张竞琼.从一元到二元:近代中国服装的传承经脉[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2009:58.
[12] 莫艳.清代中后期小说中的服饰[M].北京:清华大学出版社,2016.
[13] 刘瑞璞,邵新艳,马玲,等.古典华服结构研究[M].北京:光明日报出版社, 2009:76.
[14] 季学源.红帮裁缝评传[M].杭州:浙江大学出版社,2014.
[15] 刘云华.红帮裁缝研究[M].杭州:浙江大学出版社, 2010.
[16] 陈万丰.中国红帮裁缝发展史(上海卷)[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2007.
[17] 梁惠娥,崔荣荣,贾蕾蕾.汉民族服饰文化[M]. 北京:中国纺织出版社,2018.
[18] 包铭新.近代中国男装实录[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2008:98.
[19] 张羽.民国男性服饰文化研究[D].上海:上海戏剧学院,2014.
[20] 王象.论晚清上海传统男性服饰[J].北京纺织,2004,25(2):51-53,23.
WANG Xiang. On the traditional male clothing in Shanghai in the late Qing Dynasty [J]. Beijing Textile Journal, 2004,25(2):51-53,23.(in Chinese)
[21] 马小庆, 李建中. 天津近代男装初探[J]. 艺术与设计(理论), 2014(3):96-98.
MA Xiaoqing, LI Jianzhong. Exploration on modern men’s clothing in Tianjin[J]. Art and Design(Theory), 2014(3):96-98.(in Chinese)
[22] 刘玉环,王静.清代广州外销画中官宦男性服饰特征解读[J].大众文艺,2016(14):87.
LIU Yuhuan,WANG Jing.Interpretation of the characteristics of official men’s costumes in Guangzhou exports in Qing Dynasty[J]. Popular Literature,2016(14):87.(in Chinese)
[23] 赵波.民国时期袍服研究[J].服饰导刊,2017(1):21-29.
ZHAO Bo. A study on robes in the period of the Republic of China[J]. Fashion Guide, 2017(1):21-29.(in Chinese)
[24] 郭芳.清末民国男子长袍服装特点研究[J].现代装饰(理论),2014(6):232-233.
GUO Fang. A study on the characteristics of men’s robes in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China[J].Modern Decoration(Theory), 2014(6): 232-233.(in Chinese)
[25] 程朋朋,陈道玲,陈东生,等.近代民间长袍形制研究与结构复原[J].丝绸,2015,52(4):42- 47.
CHENG Pengpeng, CHEN Daoling, CHEN Dongsheng,et al.Study on the modern folk robes shape and structure recovery[J]. Journal of Silk, 2015,52(4): 42- 47.(in Chinese)
[26] 吴婧溪,邵新艳.清末民初典型裤装结构研究[J].设计,2016(11):141-143.
WU Jingxi, SHAO Xinyan. Typical pantsuit structure study in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China[J].Design,2016(11):141-143.(in Chinese)
[27] FINNANE A. Changing clothes in China fashion, history, nation[M]. New York: Columbia University Press,2007.
[28] 山内智惠美. 20世纪汉族服饰文化研究[M].西安:西北大学出版社,2001.
[29] NOH M,LI M,MARTIN K,et al.College men’s fashion: clothing preference, identity, and avoidance[J].Fashion and Textiles,2015(2):1-12.
[30] JOBLING P."Cloth for men": masculine identities and haptic visuality in advertising for Dormeuil Tonik, 1968—1975[J]. Textile: Cloth and Culture, 2014,12(2):140-157.
[31] AOYAGI Y, MCLELLAN T M,SHEPHARD R J.Effects of training and acclimation on heat tolerance in exercising men wearing protective clothing[J]. European Journal of Applied Physiology and Occupational Physiology,1994(3): 234-245.
[32] FERRERO-REGIS T,LINDGREN T.Branding "created in China":the rise of Chinese fashion designers[J].Fashion Practice,2012,4(1):71-94.
[33] 丁乾琨,张竞琼.近代上海西服业各阶段的规模及形成原因[J].服装学报,2020,5(3):249-355.
DING Qiankun,ZHANG Jingqiong.Scale and causes of modern Shanghai suit industry in each stage[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(3):249-355.(in Chinese)
[34] 李立新.设计艺术学研究方法[M].南京:江苏美术出版社,2009.
[35] 梁惠娥,沈天琦.地域性服饰色彩的研究现状与发展趋势[J].服装学报,2016,1(1):90-93,122.
LIANG Hui’e, SHEN Tianqi. Current situation and future development trend of regional clothing color[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2016,1(1):90-93,122.(in Chinese)
[36] 姜义华.中华文化通志[M].上海:上海人民出版社,1998.(责任编辑:沈天琦)

相似文献/References:

[1]贾蕾蕾,王沛尧,梁惠娥*.近代男性中式礼服研究现状与展望[J].服装学报,2023,8(03):242.
 JIA Leilei,WANG Peiyao,LIANG Huie*.Research Status and Prospects on Male Chinese-Style Dress in Modern Times[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2023,8(06):242.

更新日期/Last Update: 1900-01-01