[1]陈 宫,张竞琼*.从《中华》杂志看近代旗袍的演化[J].服装学报,2018,3(02):159-166.
　CHEN Gong,ZHANG Jingqiong*.Evolution of Modern Cheongsam from China Magazine[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2018,3(02):159-166.
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从《中华》杂志看近代旗袍的演化()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第3卷
期数:
2018年02期
页码:
159-166
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2018-04-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Evolution of Modern Cheongsam from China Magazine
作者:
陈 宫;  张竞琼*
江南大学 纺织服装学院,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
CHEN Gong;  ZHANG Jingqiong*
School of Textile and Clothing,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China
分类号:
TS 941.12
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
以民国时期发行时间较长、发行量较大的《中华》杂志为研究基础,对其所刊载图文内容进行分析,分别从结构、搭配、细节等方面论证了旗袍到改良旗袍的演化过程。发现在结构上表现为传统“H”型的旗袍逐渐被“X”型改良旗袍所替代,与之搭配的其他服饰也由原先的中式服饰向西式服饰过渡。认为改良旗袍的形成时间为20世纪30年代初,其穿着者早期多为影星与名媛,而后逐渐转向普罗大众。最终得出近代改良旗袍是中西文化融合的产物,且其发展方向逐步西化。
Abstract:
This research is based on the China magazine, which had a long history and sold well during the period of the Republic of China. This paper analyzes the contents of the illustrated texts, and demonstrates the evolution process from cheongsam to improved cheongsam in terms of structure, collocation and details. It is apparent that the traditional "H" shape cheongsam was replaced gradually by the "X" shape one, while the other clothes to go with also altered from the Chinese style to the western style. Meanwhile, it is believed that the improved cheongsam was formed in the early 1930s. Its wearers were mostly movie stars and celebrities in the early stage, and gradually turned to the general public.The final result is that the modernized cheongsam is a product of the fusion of Chinese and western cultures, and its direction of development is gradually being westernized.

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(责任编辑:沈天琦,邢宝妹)

更新日期/Last Update: 2018-04-30