[1]苏文灏.解析日本平安时代“十二单衣”及其情境表达[J].服装学报,2018,3(02):167-171.
 SU Wenhao.Analysis the Situation Expression of the "Twelve Separates" of Heian Period[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2018,3(02):167-171.
点击复制

解析日本平安时代“十二单衣”及其情境表达()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第3卷
期数:
2018年02期
页码:
167-171
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2018-04-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Analysis the Situation Expression of the "Twelve Separates" of Heian Period
作者:
苏文灏
大连艺术学院 服装学院,辽宁 大连 116600
Author(s):
SU Wenhao
Fashion College, DaLian Art College,Dalian 116600,China
分类号:
TS 941.11
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
日本平安时代的“十二单衣”是日本服饰文化发展的精髓。通过对历史文献的分析,得出在政治因素作用下,日本逐渐脱离中国服饰的影响,形成了独具东瀛民族特色的制衣技术、服饰廓形、花纹制作、丝绸纺织等发展方式; 而另一方面,随着藤原氏族打造的一时太平盛世,社会对女性的审美要求以及女性追求美的目的发生了较大变化,一种通过层叠服饰形成的若隐若现情境审美开始出现。这种服饰文化不仅贯穿在后期日本服饰发展的感官之中,同时也为后期日本的其他艺术门类提供了灵感思源。
Abstract:
The "twelve separates" of Heian period is the quintessence of the whole Japanese costume history.It is concluded that under political factors,through the analysis of historical literatures,Japanese clothing has gradually broken away from the influence of Chinese because of politics, while some developed ways in costume industry were formed in Japan, such as garment, profile, decorative pattern, silk production etc. This change is full of the characteristics of Japanese nation. On the other hand, along with Itoe family building a time of national peace, the society changed the view that a woman should obey the new aesthetic and rules. There appeared a situation of woman’s obscure expression formed by stack-up clothes. This costume culture not only was throughout the processing of the subsequent Japanese costume, but also inspired other genre of Japanese modern arts.

参考文献/References:

[1] FOGG M.时尚通史[M].陈磊,译.北京:中信出版社,2016.
[2] KAISER S B.服装社会心理学[M].李宏伟,译.北京:中国纺织出版社,2000.
[3] 曹媛.日本古代服饰审美思想的成因——以《源氏物语》中服装描写为例分析平安时代日本人的审美思想[J].美与时代,2011(4):111-113.
CAO Yuan.The origin of Japanese ancient costume aesthetic thought—take the clothing description in the Yuanshi Wuyu as an example to analyze the Japanese people’s aesthetic thoughts in Heian times[J].Beauty and Times,2011(4):111-113.(in Chinese)
[4] 刘明利.日本传统文化中唐文化的烙印[D].济南:山东大学,2009:04.
[5] 沈从文.中国古代服饰研究[M].上海:商务印书馆,2011:12.
[6] 王海燕.日本平安时代的社会与信仰[M].杭州:浙江大学出版社,2014.
[7] 紫式部.源氏物语[M]丰子恺,译..南京:译林出版社,2011:6.
[8] 清少纳吉.枕草子[M].林文月,译.上海:上海人民出版社,2015:3.
[9] 卢坦.中国清朝旗袍与日本江户小袖比较研究[J].日本研究,2011(1):123-128.
LU Tan.A comparative study of cheongsam in Qing Dynasty and small sleeve of Japanese Edo[J]. Japan Studies,2011(1):123-128.(in Chinese)(责任编辑:卢 杰,邢宝妹)

更新日期/Last Update: 2018-04-30