[1]陈建伟,司亚慧,金 蕾.黎锦织造工艺及其文化特征探源[J].服装学报,2016,1(01):101-106.
　CHEN Jianwei,SI Yahui,JIN Lei.Weaving Processing of Li Brocade and Cultural Characteristics Study[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2016,1(01):101-106.
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黎锦织造工艺及其文化特征探源()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第1卷
期数:
2016年01期
页码:
101-106
栏目:
出版日期:
2016-01-15

文章信息/Info

Title:
Weaving Processing of Li Brocade and Cultural Characteristics Study
文章编号:
2096-1928(2016)01-0101-06
作者:
陈建伟;  司亚慧;  金 蕾
青岛大学 纺织服装学院,山东 青岛 266071
Author(s):
CHEN Jianwei;  SI Yahui;  JIN Lei
College of Textiles and Fashion,Qingdao University,Qingdao 266071,China
分类号:
J 523.5
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
通过实地调研与跨文化比较方法,对黎锦的织造工艺及文化内涵进行了剖析。描述了黎锦的织造原料和织造工具,原料主要为麻类和棉类,工具主要为导纱工具和织造工具; 记述了黎锦织造工艺,从上机、变综织纬和挑花方面分步骤展开黎锦的制作过程; 由织造工艺衍生出其背后的文化意义,探讨了自然环境与生态物产、社会分工与课征贡品、情感寄托与宗教信仰、民族融合等多元化因素对其产生、延续及发展的影响,总结出黎锦织造工艺受多元文化影响的因素。
Abstract:
This paper is aimed to analyze the weaving processing and cultural connotation of Li brocade through on-the-spot investigation and cross-cultural comparison method. It describes the raw materials and manufacturing tools of Li brocade, the main raw materials are cotton and hemp, and the main manufacturing tools are yarn-guiding and traditional weaving tools. The current paper gives a detailed description of the Li brocade’s weaving process, and analyzes the production process of Li brocade step by step from three aspects, the machine, weft knitted fabric and cross-stitch, respectively. The cultural significancebehind the weaving process has been derived. The influences of the natural environment and ecological properties, social division of labor, levied tribute, emotional sustenance and religious, ethnic fusion, etc. on its production, the continuation and the development has been discussed.This paper finally summarizes the four factors of Li brocade’s weaving processing affected by multiculturalism.

参考文献/References:

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备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
收稿日期:2016-01-28; 修订日期:2016-03-14。
基金项目:山东省高校人文社会科学研究计划项目(J14WJ20)。
作者简介:陈建伟(1959—),教授,硕士生导师。主要研究方向为少数民族服饰文化。Email:jwchen@163.com
更新日期/Last Update: 2016-01-15