[1]陈 敏,冶 恬,贺 阳*.白苗上衣插片结构与缠绕穿衣方式[J].服装学报,2018,3(06):511-516.
　CHEN Min,YE Tian,HE Yang*.Insert Structure and Winding Dressing Methodof Bai Miao Tops[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2018,3(06):511-516.
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白苗上衣插片结构与缠绕穿衣方式()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第3卷
期数:
2018年06期
页码:
511-516
栏目:
服装工程技术
出版日期:
2018-12-28

文章信息/Info

Title:
Insert Structure and Winding Dressing Methodof Bai Miao Tops
作者:
陈 敏;  冶 恬;  贺 阳*
北京服装学院 服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029
Author(s):
CHEN Min;  YE Tian;  HE Yang*
School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China
分类号:
TS 941.6; J 523.5
摘要:
白苗女性上衣的衣领、衣身均通过平裁而得,在衣领、腋下缝合几何形插片形成衣身立体结构。上衣通过缠绕穿着的方式,辅助完成前胸和侧身的立体造型,而这种加入插片的立体制衣思想,早在战国时期的深衣结构上就已应用。以北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏MFB009069为研究对象,结合田野考察资料,探究白苗上衣的衣领、衣身结构及穿衣方式,发现中国传统制衣是以人的身体构造为依托,以缠绕的穿着方式为辅助,从而完成服装的立体造型。
Abstract:
The collar and body of the Bai Miao women’s tops are all obtained by flat cutting. The three-dimensional structure of the body is formed by sewing the geometric inserts on the collar and underarms. The blouse is entangled to complete the three-dimensional shape of the front chest and sideway. As early as the Warring States period, the idea of the three-dimensional garment with the addition of inserted structure has been applied. Taking MFB009069 collected in the Museum of Ethnic Garments of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology as the research object and combining with field investigation data, the collar, clothing structure and way of dressing of Bai Miao tops were investigated, revealing that the traditional Chinese garment is made based on the human body structure and assisted by the winding way of dressing, thus completing the three-dimensional garment modeling.

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(责任编辑:沈天琦,邢宝妹)

更新日期/Last Update: 2018-12-28