[1]龚建培,谢 静,吴 芳,等.苏州东吴丝织厂丝织产品设计档案综述(1951—1982)[J].服装学报,2024,9(03):235-242.
　GONG Jianpei,XIE Jing,WU Fang,et al.Summary of Design Archives for Ancient Fragrant Satin at Suzhou Dongwu Silk Weaving Factory(1951—1982)[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2024,9(03):235-242.
点击复制

苏州东吴丝织厂丝织产品设计档案综述(1951—1982)()
分享到：

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第9卷
期数:
2024年03期
页码:
235-242
栏目:
服装文化
出版日期:
2024-07-01

文章信息/Info

Title:
Summary of Design Archives for Ancient Fragrant Satin at Suzhou Dongwu Silk Weaving Factory(1951—1982)
作者:
龚建培1;  谢 静2;  吴 芳2;  姜 楠2
1.南京艺术学院 设计学院,江苏 南京 210013; 2.中国丝绸档案馆,江苏 苏州 215004
Author(s):
GONG Jianpei1;  XIE Jing2;  WU Fang2;  JIANG Nan2
1.School Design,Nanjing University of the Arts, Nanjing 210013,China; 2. China Silk Archives, Suzhou 215004,China
分类号:
J 509; G 276
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
东吴丝织厂是历史最为悠久的苏州丝绸企业之一。通过对中国丝绸档案馆收藏的大量苏州东吴丝织厂文献和丝织实物的整理、研究,系统梳理了东吴丝织厂的发展历史、历年主要品种及产品开发生产状况,并以馆藏的古香缎为例,分析、探讨了其产品的分类与设计元素的发展,以及其产品设计的叙事特征与情境表达等。研究认为:中国丝绸档案馆收藏的苏州东吴丝织厂丝织产品及相关档案,是苏州丝绸史档案研究以及丝绸企业个案研究的鲜活案例,为现代丝绸设计提供了诸多启示。
Abstract:
Dongwu Silk Weaving Factory is one of the oldest silk enterprises in Suzhou. Through the organization and research of numerous documents and physical archives of Suzhou Dongwu Silk Weaving Factory, collected by the China Silk Archives, the historical development status, major product and variations, and production status of Dongwu Silk Weaving Factory over the years were systematically sorted out. Taking the ancient fragrant satin from the collection as an example, this paper analyzed product classification, design element development, narrative characteristics, and situational expression. The research suggests that the silk products and related archives of Suzhou Dongwu Silk Weaving Factory, collected by the China Silk Archives not only provide inspiration for modern silk design but also offer cases studies for exploring Suzhou’s silk history and studying silk enterprises.

参考文献/References:

[1] 龚建培.新中国外销绸缎样本的档案形态及信息、价值特征[J].服装学报,2023,8(3):254-259.
GONG Jianpei. Archival form, information and value characteristics of the export silk and satin samples of People’s republic of China[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2023, 8(3): 254-259.(in Chinese)
[2] 龚建培. 论民国服饰史研究中的向度预设与范式转换[J].艺术设计研究,2022(3):17.
GONG Jianpei. Dimension presupposition and paradigm shift in the study of costume history in the republic of China[J]. Art and Design Research, 2022(3): 17.(in Chinese)
[3] 陈果,龚建培,张志贤. 中国现代丝绸文化记忆的数字化设计研究(1949—1988年)[J].丝绸,2024,61(2):9-18.
CHEN Guo,GONG Jianpei,ZHANG Zhixian.Digital design research on the cultural memory of silk in modern China(1949-1988)[J].Journal of Silk,2024,61(2):9-18.(in Chinese)
[4] 秦尚信.苏州织锦缎图案沿革和展望[J].江苏丝绸,1980,9(1):17-19.
QIN Shangxin. Evolution and prospect of Suzhou brocade patterns[J]. Jiangsu Silk,1980,9(1):17-19.(in Chinese)
[5] 龚建培.新中国初期(1949—1965年)外销丝绸设计的策略与范式特征研究[J].服饰导刊,2022,9(1):77-84.
GONG Jianpei. Research on the design strategy and paradigm of silks for export in the beginning of new China(1949—1965)[J]. Fashion Guide, 2020, 9(1): 77-84.(in Chinese)
[6] 商务部国际贸易经济合作研究所.中国对外贸易史[M].北京:中国商务出版社,2016:86-87.
[7] 钱小萍,胡芸.苏州丝绸传统品种的历史和现状[J].江苏丝绸,1982,11(3):40- 45,60.
QIAN Xiaoping, HU Yun. History and present situation of traditional varieties of Suzhou silk [J]. Jiangsu Silk, 1982,11(3): 40-45,60.(in Chinese)
[8] 赵丰.中国丝绸通史[M].苏州:苏州大学出版社,2005:735.
[9] 王曼丽.“风景古香缎”的花样分析[J].江苏丝绸,1987,16(6):36-38.
WANG Manli. Pattern analysis of "scenic antique satin"[J]. Jiangsu Silk, 1987,16(6): 36-38.(in Chinese)
[10] 裘愉发.织锦和古香[J].丝绸,1985,22(1):60.
QIU Yufa. Brocade and ancient incense[J]. Journal of Silk, 1985,22(1):60.(in Chinese)
[11] 秦尚信.织锦缎图案发展浅说[J].丝绸,1981,18(11):4- 6.
QIN Shangxin. A brief introduction to the development of brocade patterns[J].Journal of Silk, 1981,18(11): 4- 6.(in Chinese)
[12] 朱忠浩.1984年对苏成交品种[J].丝绸,1984,21(4):10.
ZHU Zhonghao. Varieties traded with the Soviet Union in 1984[J]. Journal of Silk,1984,21(4):10.(in Chinese)
(责任编辑:卢 杰)

更新日期/Last Update: 2024-06-30