[1]杨 雪,刘 瑜*.丝绸之路出土的异文锦袍与东西方纺织服饰艺术交流[J].服装学报,2021,6(02):138-147.
　YANG Xue,LIU Yu*.Analysis of Transcultural Communication of Costume Art Across the Silk Road Based on Inscribed Robes[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2021,6(02):138-147.
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丝绸之路出土的异文锦袍与东西方纺织服饰艺术交流()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第6卷
期数:
2021年02期
页码:
138-147
栏目:
服装历史与文化
出版日期:
2021-04-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Analysis of Transcultural Communication of Costume Art Across the Silk Road Based on Inscribed Robes
作者:
杨 雪;  刘 瑜*
东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院,上海 200051
Author(s):
YANG Xue;  LIU Yu*
College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China
分类号:
J 18; J 523
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
以中国境内纺织考古所见12—14世纪带有阿拉伯铭文的锦袍和残片为主要研究对象,参照搜集的阿拉伯书法纹饰相关文献和中亚细密画等图像资料,对照中外存世的同时期异文锦袍实物证据,分析其纹样程式和风格流变,解析锦袍上铭文字符的主要内容和特征,总结出异文锦袍的发展大致经历了“塞尔柱式样大圆环字符纹锦袍流行期”(约11世纪早期至12世纪早期)、“塞尔柱式样异文锦袍向蒙古式样过渡期”(约12世纪中后期至13世纪早期)、“蒙古式异文锦袍流行期”(约13中后期至14世纪)3个阶段,并尝试探究异文锦袍在丝绸之路的传播路径,以期对深入探析丝绸之路中外纺织服饰艺术的跨文化交流起到一定的参考作用。
Abstract:
This research mainly focused on the 12th—14th century brocade robes and fragments with Arabic inscriptions found in the textile Archaeology in China. Referring to the collected documents on Arabic calligraphy patterns and the image data of Central Asian miniature paintings,this research analyzed the pattern program and style evolution of brocade robes with different inscriptions in the same period of Chinese and foreign existence, and analyzed the main contents and characteristics of the inscriptions on brocade robes. After summarizing the characteristics, this research concluded that the development of robes inscribed with Arabic scripts had roughly gone through three stages: the popular period of Seljuk style with big circle character pattern brocade robes(about the early 11th century to the early 12th century), the transitional period of Seljuk style inscribed brocade robes to Mongolian style(about the middle and late 12th century to the early 13th century), and then the popular period of Mongolian style(about the middle and late 13th century to the 14th century). It is expected to play a certain reference role in the in-depth analysis of the transcultural communication of costume art between China and foreign countries across the silk road.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2021-05-11