[1]李冬蕾,梁惠娥*.唐代幞头形制变迁及其文化内涵[J].服装学报,2019,4(05):447-451.
 LI Donglei,LIANG Huie*.Futou’s Shape Change and Its Cultural Connotations in Tang Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(05):447-451.
点击复制

唐代幞头形制变迁及其文化内涵()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第4卷
期数:
2019年05期
页码:
447-451
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2019-10-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Futou’s Shape Change and Its Cultural Connotations in Tang Dynasty
作者:
李冬蕾1; 2;  梁惠娥*1; 2; 3
1. 江南大学 纺织服装学院,江苏 无锡 214122; 2.江南大学 江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏 无锡 214122; 3.无锡工艺职业技术学院 名师工作室,江苏 宜兴214206
Author(s):
LI Donglei1; 2;  LIANG Hui’e*1; 2; 3
1.School of Textile and Clothing,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China; 2.Non-Material Culture Heritage Base of Jiangsu Province,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China; 3. Master Studio, Wuxi Vocational Institute of Arts and Technology,Yixing 214206,China)
分类号:
TS 941.12
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
幞头是唐代盛行的冠式,唐代上至天子下至平民百姓皆可佩戴幞头,且幞头的材质、造型和功能在唐代也有较为丰富的变化。通过归纳唐代及唐前后幞头的演变,分析幞头所蕴含的文化内涵,得出幞头形制的变化发展是唐代政治文化、性别文化、等级文化与服饰之间交融的体现,展现了各阶级之间以幞头演变为中心的积极互动。对唐代幞头形制的研究及文化内涵的分析可为传统头饰研究提供理论参考。
Abstract:
Futou is a kind of hat prevailing in Tang Dynasty. Both the emperor and the common people could wear Futou, and the changes of its materials, shapes and functions were very abundant in that period. This paper summarized the evolution of Futou in Tang Dynasty and its around, and analyzed the social and cultural connotations of Futou. The result shows that the change and development of Futou shape reflects the blending of political culture,gender culture,hierarchical culture with costumes in Tang Dynasty, and shows the positive interaction focused on the evolution of Fotou among various classes.The research of Futou’s shape change and the analysis of cultural significance in Tang Dynasty can provide a theoretical reference for the future research of traditional head ornaments.

参考文献/References:

[1] 魏健鹏.敦煌壁画中幞头的分类及其断代功能刍议[J].艺术设计研究,2013(2):11-18.
WEI Jianpeng. Classification and the dynastic division function of Futouin Dunhuang frescoes[J]. Art and Design Research,2013(2):11-18.(in Chinese)
[2] 孙运飞.历朝历代服饰:上册[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2010.
[3] 李怡.汉唐时期男子幞头形制变迁的文化审视[J].浙江纺织服装职业技术学报,2017,16(3):60- 64.
LI Yi. Cultural review of man’s Futou shape change during the period of Han and Tang Dynasties[J]. Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology,2017,16(3):60- 64.(in Chinese)
[4] 沈从文.中国古代服饰研究[M].北京:商务印书馆,2011.
[5] 张竞琼,曹喆.看得见的中国服装史[M].北京:中华书局,2012.
[6] 李怡,林泰然.唐代文官常服幞头形制变迁的文化审视[J].吉林艺术学院学报,2013(2):14-17.
LI Yi, LIN Tairan. A cultural perspective on shape change of the Futou of the usual dress of officials in Tang Dynasty[J]. Journal of Jilin College of the Arts,2013(2):14-17.(in Chinese)
[7] 贾玺增.中国古代首服研究[D].上海:东华大学,2007.
[8] 费孝通.对文化的历史性和社会性的思考[J].思想战线,2004,30(2):1- 6.
FEI Xiaotong.Reflections on the historical and social characteristics of culture[J].Thinking,2004,30(2):1- 6.(in Chinese)
[9] 吕博.头饰背后的政治史:从“武家诸王样”到“山子军容头”[J].历史研究,2016(4):28- 44.
LYU Bo. The political history behind headwear:from the "kings surnamed Wu style" to the "shanzi junrongtou"[J].Historical Research,2016(4):28- 44.(in Chinese)
[10] 杜娴婷.性别角色认同视角下的女着男装现象[D].北京:北京服装学院,2010.
(责任编辑:沈天琦,邢宝妹)

更新日期/Last Update: 2019-10-31