[1]刘海桑,董智佳*,夏风林.经编无缝运动套装的分区设计与拉伸性能[J].服装学报,2018,3(05):406-411.
　LIU Haisang,DONG Zhijia*,XIA Fenglin.Partition Design and Tensile Properties of Warp Knitted Seamless Sport Suits[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2018,3(05):406-411.
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经编无缝运动套装的分区设计与拉伸性能()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第3卷
期数:
2018年05期
页码:
406-411
栏目:
服装工程技术
出版日期:
2018-10-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Partition Design and Tensile Properties of Warp Knitted Seamless Sport Suits
作者:
刘海桑;  董智佳*;  夏风林
江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
LIU Haisang;  DONG Zhijia*;  XIA Fenglin
Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China
分类号:
TS 184.5
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
针对运动套装不同透气性功能分布的需要,将透气性需求、人体下肢功能分布与经编无缝成型技术相结合,采用色块分区法对经编无缝运动套装的组织进行填充,通过使用工艺软件输出上机文件,再进行样品上机织造。对试织样品进行染色,并对染色前后的尺寸进行测量,计算得到染缩率、最大伸长率及弹性回复率。研究表明:染色后背心与紧身裤的纵向染缩率分别为横向的1.5～2倍; 染色后两组运动套装的纵向最大伸长率均要大于白坯,横向则存在一定差别; 成品的弹性回复率比白坯大,尺寸稳定性更好; 织物横向弹性回复率要略优于纵向,这与经编织物独特的编链与延展线结构有关。
Abstract:
Aiming at the need of different permeability and function of sport suits, air permeability needs and human lower limb function distribution were combined with warp knitted seamless forming technology. The stiches of warp knitted seamless sport suit were filled based on color block partitioning method, and then the samples were knitted on the machine by using the process software to output the computer files. The samples were dyed and their size before and after dyeing were measured. After that, the shrinkage, maximum elongation and elastic recovery were calculated. Research indicated that the longitudinal dyeing shrinkage of the dyed vest and tights was 1.5 to 2 times than that of the transverse ones. The maximum longitudinal elongation of two sets of dyed sport suits were greater than those of grey fabrics and there was a certain difference between horizontal and longitudinal directions. The elastic recovery rate of the finished products were larger than that of grey fabrics, indicating a better dimensional stability was achieved after finishing. The transverse elastic recovery rate of fabric was slightly better than that of longitudinal elastic recovery rate, which was related to the unique chain and extension cord structure of warp knitted fabric.

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(责任编辑:沈天琦,邢宝妹)

更新日期/Last Update: 2018-10-30