[1]张 囡,蒋高明*,董智佳,等.经编全成型男式T恤原型设计与工艺实现[J].服装学报,2018,3(03):209-213.
　ZHANG Nan,JIANG Gaoming*,DONG Zhijia,et al.Prototype Design and Process Realization of Warp Knitting Fully Men’s T-Shirt[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2018,3(03):209-213.
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经编全成型男式T恤原型设计与工艺实现()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第3卷
期数:
2018年03期
页码:
209-213
栏目:
服装工程技术
出版日期:
2018-06-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Prototype Design and Process Realization of Warp Knitting Fully Men’s T-Shirt
作者:
张 囡1; 2;  蒋高明*1; 2;  董智佳1; 2;  储云明3
1.江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏 无锡 214122; 2.江南大学 生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏 无锡 214122; 3.江苏华宜针织有限公司,江苏 宜兴 214200
Author(s):
ZHANG Nan1; 2;  JIANG Gaoming*1; 2;  DONG Zhijia1; 2;  CHU Yunming3
1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China; 2.Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles, Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122,China; 3.Jiangsu Huayi Knitting Co.,Ltd.,Yixing 214200,China
分类号:
TS 941.64
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
为实现经编全成型男式T恤设计的高效和规范,在深入分析经编全成型男式T恤分类与工艺结构设计的基础上,结合人体结构特征和经编全成型的工艺原理,从运动功能角度出发,建立用于经编全成型设计与工艺的二维男式短袖T恤原型样板。通过分析人体手臂的运动方向和肩斜角度,选取上肢侧举45～75°为有效运动量,在此基础上设计出一片式连肩短袖筒形款式结构。该原型样板不仅符合人体所需功能特征,同时也满足款式造型的审美及服装结构需求。通过在经编工艺软件系统中对经编全成型男式T恤进行色块分区和贾卡组织填充的工艺样板设计,并完成上机织造、后道处理等工序流程,为经编全成型服装的设计开发与实践生产提供了有效途径。
Abstract:
In order to realize the high efficiency and standardization of the design of warp knitting fully men’s T-shirt, the full warping design and technology for warp knitting of the two-dimensional men’s short-sleeved T-shirt prototype template was established from the point of view of the movement function based on the in-depth study of warp knitting men’s T-shirt classification and process structure design in combination of human body structural features and warp knitting full-process technology principles. By discussing the direction of movement of the human arm and the angle of shoulder oblique, the upper limb side to lift 45～ 75° was selected as the effective exercise. On the basis of that, a piece of shoulder short sleeve shape was designed. The prototype model not only meets the characteristics of the human body, but also meets the aesthetic of style and the needs of clothing structure.Through dividing the color blocks and designing the process prototype of jacquard tissue filling for warp knitting fully men’s T-shirt in the warp process software system, the weaving, post-processing and other processes were accomplished, providing an effective way for the design development and practice production of the warp knitting full garments.

参考文献/References:

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(责任编辑:卢 杰,邢宝妹)

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更新日期/Last Update: 2018-06-30