[1]李 荣,张竞琼*.近代中国西式童装款式与结构[J].服装学报,2017,2(05):421-426.
 LI Rong,ZHANG Jingqiong.Research on Style and Structure of Western-Style Children’s Wear in Modern China[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2017,2(05):421-426.
点击复制

近代中国西式童装款式与结构()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第2卷
期数:
2017年05期
页码:
421-426
栏目:
服装工程技术
出版日期:
2017-10-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Research on Style and Structure of Western-Style Children’s Wear in Modern China
作者:
李 荣;  张竞琼*
江南大学 纺织服装学院,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
LI Rong; ZHANG Jingqiong<sup>*</sup>
School of Fashion Technology,Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou 450007,China
分类号:
TS 941.763.1
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
针对近代中国西式童装款式与结构,利用近代文献史料对西装、衬衫、连衣裙与大衣等品种进行研究。认为在服装轮廓上可分为“A”型、“X”型与“H”型; 款式包括翻领、装袖、贴袋、收腰等样式; 结构上出现了公主线、省道、褶裥、各部位分开裁剪等特点,使服装更加贴合人体便于活动,也起到装饰美化作用。并从城乡之差、西风东渐、思想家的呼吁3个角度,分析近代中国童装发生变革的原因,近代童装破除封建礼制,在款式和结构上有所突破。
Abstract:
In view of the modern Chinese western style and structure of children’s clothing, the suits, shirts, dresses and coats and other varieties were studied based on the documents and historical data of recent times. It concluded that clothing profile couldbe divided into "A","X" and "H"style,including of lapel, sleeves, patch pocket, waist et al. From the view of structure, the princess line, dart, fold, the various parts of the characteristics of cutting appeared. This made clothing to be more fit the human body and played a decorative landscaping. This paper also analyzed the causes of the change of children’s clothing in modern China from the angle of difference between urban and rural areas, westerly eastward and thinker’s appeal. Modern children’s clothing broke the feudal ritual system and made a breakthrough in style and structure.

参考文献/References:

[1] 罗松泊.瞬间永恒:沈石蒂摄上海华洋人物旧影[M].上海:上海书画出版社,2013:325,39.
[2] 袁仄.百年衣裳[M].北京:三联书店,2010:160.
[3] 陈丹燕.上海的风花雪月[M].北京:作家出版社,2008:308.
[4] 张竞琼,孙庆国.论张竞生的“变服”主张[J].装饰,2006(6):38.
ZHANG Jingqiong,SUN Qingguo.On the "Garment Reform" proposition of Zhang Jingsheng[J].Art and Design,2006(6):38.(in Chinese)
[5] 晖明.谈谈新装束[N].申报,1925-12-21.
[6] 陈抱一.关于儿童美育和图画刊物[J].美术生活,1934(6):9.
CHEN Baoyi.About children’s aesthetic education and book publications[J].Art Life,1934(6):9.(in Chinese)
[7] 佚名.富民夏令衫[J].永安月刊,1943(49):1.
YI Ming.Rich day summer shirt[J].Yong’an Monthly Magazine,1943(49):1.(in Chinese)
[8] 萧梅.大小衣[J].家,1948(29):215.
XIAO Mei.Small coat[J].Family,1948(29):215.(in Chinese)
[9] 佚名.小宝宝的新夏装[J].女声,1942(2):39.
YI Ming.Baby’s new summer clothes[J].Female Voice,1942(2):39.(in Chinese)
[10] 佚名.儿童节[J].美术生活,1935(14):32.
YI Ming.Children’s Day[J].Art Life,1935(14):32.(in Chinese)
[11] 梁白波.儿童服装设计[J].美术生活,1935(19):33-34.
LIANG Baibo.Children’s clothing design[J].Art Life,1935(19):33-34.(in Chinese)
[12] 佚名.西式儿童服装汇图[J].美术生活,1935(10):35.
YI Ming.Western children’s clothing drawing[J].Art Life,1935(10):35.(in Chinese)
[13] 凌君.时装:八九岁女孩的通用服[J].美术生活,1934(7):26.
LING Jun.Fashion:eight and nine years old girl’s generic clothing[J].Art Life,1934(7):26.(in Chinese)
[14] 卜珍.裁剪大全[M].上海:穗兴印务馆,1948:104.
[15] 张竞琼.从一元到二元:近代中国服装的传承经脉[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2009:233.
[16] 孙燕京.晚清社会风尚研究[M].北京:中国人民大学出版社,2002:122.
[17] 何德骞.服饰与考证[M].北京:中国时代经济出版社,2010:220-221.
[18] 张竞生.美的人生观[M].北京:北京大学出版社,2010:30-31.
[19] 高叔平.蔡元培美育论集[M].长沙:湖南教育出版社,1987:208.
(责任编辑:张 雪,邢宝妹)

相似文献/References:

[1]刘 蕊,邢明杰*.基于皮亚杰认知发展理论的4~6岁童装图案设计[J].服装学报,2019,4(04):337.
 LIU Rui,XING Mingjie*.4~6 Years Old Children’s Clothing Pattern Design Based on Piaget’s Cognitive Developmental Theory[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(05):337.

更新日期/Last Update: 2017-10-30