[1]屈国靖,宋 伟.人体行走尺度对裙摆围度设计的影响及对策[J].服装学报,2017,2(02):146-151.
　QU Guojing,SONG Wei.Influence of Human Walking Strides on the Design of Skirt Hemline[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2017,2(02):146-151.
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人体行走尺度对裙摆围度设计的影响及对策()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第2卷
期数:
2017年02期
页码:
146-151
栏目:
服装工程技术
出版日期:
2017-04-28

文章信息/Info

Title:
Influence of Human Walking Strides on the Design of Skirt Hemline
作者:
屈国靖;  宋 伟
广东理工学院 艺术系,广东 肇庆 526100
Author(s):
QU Guojing;  SONG Wei

Department of Art,Guangdong Polytechnic College,Zhaoqing 526100,China

分类号:
TS 941.2; TS 941.717.8
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
结合人体工效学研究,通过分析人体行走尺度对裙摆围度的设计影响,得出制约裙摆围度设计的3个主要因素,即裙长、两膝围度和两踝围度。以西服裙原型为例,通过测算裙长落于人体腿部所对应裙摆最小围度的方法,分析得出西服裙原型开衩的一般起始位置应在后中腰线下38～40 cm处; 在裙原型纸样设计中,为更合理解决不同裙长对应的裙摆围度变化,将裙长从30～90 cm以10 cm为一个单元跨度共划分为6段,以此推算出不同裙长标准的裙摆围度,及1/4裙片下摆对应的最小内收量及放量。
Abstract:
Based on the consideration of human engineering, the impact of walking strides on the design of skirt hemline is studied in this study. Three factors have been found, namely, the skirt length, the knees’ girth, the ankles’ girth. Taking the basic pattern of the suit skirt as an example, the skirt split should start about 38 ～ 40 cm below the back waist line. In the design of the basic pattern, in order to better understand the influence of different skirt length on the design of skirt hemline, the skirt length is divided into 6 ranges 30 cm to 90 cm with each increasing 10 cm, based on which the circumferences of skirt hemlines are estimated as well as the minimum amount of the circumference and the ease allowance of each quarter piece.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2017-05-01