[1]程东明,陈 浩,杜泽静.异面仿针织牛仔面料设计及风格测试[J].服装学报,2017,2(02):102-106.
　CHENG Dongming,CHEN Hao,DU Zejing.Design and Fabric Style Evaluation of a Knitting-Like Jean Fabric with Different Surfaces[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2017,2(02):102-106.
点击复制

异面仿针织牛仔面料设计及风格测试()
分享到：

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第2卷
期数:
2017年02期
页码:
102-106
栏目:
服装材料科学
出版日期:
2017-04-28

文章信息/Info

Title:
Design and Fabric Style Evaluation of a Knitting-Like Jean Fabric with Different Surfaces
作者:
程东明1;  陈 浩2;  杜泽静2
1.无锡一棉纺织集团有限公司,江苏 无锡 214101; 2.江南大学 纺织服装学院,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
CHENG Dongming1;  CHEN Hao2;  DU Zejing2
1.Wuxi No.1 Cotton Texlile Group Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi 214101,China; 2.School of Textile and Clothing,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China
分类号:
TS 116; TS 155
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
参照纬二重组织设计原理,以2/1右斜纹组织和12枚7飞加强缎纹为表里组织,选用靛蓝经纱配合黑白两色里纬织造,在织物正面保持牛仔经典风格的同时,反面形成横条纹针织外观,实现正反面风格迥异的异面仿针织牛仔面料设计。简要阐述了所设计织物的规格、面料用色、生产流程、关键工艺,并对本设计面料和普通弹力牛仔布进行KES风格测试和悬垂性能测试,对比数据发现异面仿针织牛仔的柔软手感较普通牛仔布有很大提升。本设计在织物外观风格及手感性能方面,实现了对于牛仔织物的改善创新。
Abstract:
A knitting-like jean fabric with different surfaces were designed with a new weave which combined 2/1 right twill weave and 12 pieces of 7 fly double satin, based on the double-layer weft weave design principle. The black and white wefts were interweaved with the indigo warps. The fabric expressed the classic style of jean on the face and the texture of knitted fabric on the back. The specifications, color, production process and key technology of the designed fabric were discussed then. In addition, KES style and drape performance of the designed fabric and a similar stretch denim fabric were tested. The results showed that the designed fabric was softer than the ordinary denim fabric. The design in this paper improved the amelioration and innovation of jean fabric in the aspects of appearance and hand feeling.

参考文献/References:

[1] Matthew Sweet,王亦兵.牛仔服饰简史[J].英语文摘,2014(2):49-54.
Matthew Sweet,WANG Yibing.A brief history of denim[J].English Digest,2014(2):49-54.(in Chinese)
[2] Roshan Paul.An overview[M].Roshan Paul,Sanchez M,Sarkar A K,et al.Denim and Jeans.Denim England:Woodhead Publishing,2015:1-11.
[3] 刘涛.牛仔布的色彩文化[C]//2008广东牛仔深加工技术创新研讨会论文集.广州:广东省纺织协会,2008:126-129.
[4] 李竹君,唐琴.牛仔布的织造技术[J].纺织导报,2013(11):22-26.
LI Zhujun,TANG Qin.Study on weaving technology of denim[J].China Textile Leader,2013(11):22-26.(in Chinese)
[5] 张清长,牛国栋,马延涛,等.GAMMA型剑杆织机织造双面牛仔织物的体会[J].棉纺织技术,2010,38(4):55-57.
ZHANG Qingchang,NIU Guodong,MA Yantao,et al.Experience of producing reversible denim fabric on GAMMA rapier[J].Cotton Textile Technology,2010,38(4):55-57.(in Chinese)
[6] 郭莉,姚舒林,曾林泉,等.靛蓝牛仔布常见疵病的产生及防止[J].上海纺织科技,2004,32(1):22-23.
GUO Ll,YAO Shulin,ZENG Linquan,et al.Cause and solution for usual defect of indigo denim[J].Shanghai Textile Science and Technology,2004,32(1):22-23.(in Chinese)
[7] 张艳梅.浅谈改善牛仔织物手感[C]//2012年全国牛仔布行业年会论文集.石狮市:中国棉纺织行业协会,2012:162-166.
(责任编辑:邢宝妹)

更新日期/Last Update: 2017-04-30