[1]花 芬,吴志明.斜肩式连身袖样板设计[J].服装学报,2016,1(01):79-84.
　HUA Feng,WU Zhiming.Pattern Design of Kimono Sleeves for Sloping Shoulder[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2016,1(01):79-84.
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斜肩式连身袖样板设计()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第1卷
期数:
2016年01期
页码:
79-84
栏目:
出版日期:
2016-01-15

文章信息/Info

Title:
Pattern Design of Kimono Sleeves for Sloping Shoulder
文章编号:
2096-1928(2016)01-0079-06
作者:
花 芬1; 2;  吴志明2
1.郑州市科技工业学校 服装系,河南 郑州 450053;
2.江南大学 纺织服装学院,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
HUA Feng1; 2;  WU Zhiming2
1.Department of Clothing,Zhengzhou Science and Technology Industrial School,Zhengzhou 450053,China;
2.School of Textile and Clothing,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China
分类号:
TS 941.1
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
探讨了斜肩式连身袖样板构成原理,分析了影响斜肩式连身袖造型和运动舒适性的因素,采用实验方法研究了袖中线斜度和袖裆起点位置及大小对连身袖的影响规律。研究认为,袖中线斜度越大,斜肩式连身袖造型越好,运动性能越差,无袖裆结构连身袖的袖斜度以5°～10°为宜; 综合斜肩式连身袖造型和运动舒适性,袖裆起点位置比衣身袖窿线和袖山线交叉点低1～2.5 cm、袖裆宽度等于后片重叠量×2。这一结论对斜肩式连身袖样板设计具有参考意义。
Abstract:
The paper discusses the constitutive principle of one-piece sleeve for sloping shoulder,and analyses the main factors that influence its molding and movement comfort ability.The influence of slanting angle of sleeve center line and gusset starting position and size of the kimono sleeve is studied by an experimental method.The research shows that the greater the slanting angle of sleeve center line,the better the sleeve shape,and the worse exercise performance.The inclination of the sleeve without gusset is appropriate for 5°～10°.Considering its shape and exersice comfort,the gusset starting position is 1～2.5 cm lower than Intersection of body armhole line and sleeve line,gusset width is equal to 2 times the amount of overlap sheet.The conclusion of the study has a good guiding significance for the pattern design of one-piece sleeve for sloping shoulder.

参考文献/References:

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备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
收稿日期:2015-12-28; 修订日期:2016-02-05。
作者简介:花 芬(1978—),女,讲师。主要研究方向为服装设计理论与应用。Email:4829047@qq.com
更新日期/Last Update: 2016-01-15