[1]旷 彤,宋晓霞*.基于三维导湿结构的针织运动面料开发与性能评价[J].服装学报,2025,10(06):506-511.
　KUANG Tong,SONG Xiaoxia*.Development and Performance Evaluation of Knitted Sportswear Fabrics Based on Three-Dimensional Moisture Conductive Structure[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2025,10(06):506-511.
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基于三维导湿结构的针织运动面料开发与性能评价()

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第10卷
期数:
2025年06期
页码:
506-511
栏目:
针织服装
出版日期:
2025-12-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Development and Performance Evaluation of Knitted Sportswear Fabrics Based on Three-Dimensional Moisture Conductive Structure
作者:
旷 彤;  宋晓霞*
上海工程技术大学 纺织服装学院,上海 201620
Author(s):
KUANG Tong;  SONG Xiaoxia*
School of Textiles and Fashion,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China
分类号:
TS 184.4
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
基于仿生学,设计并开发具有不对称润湿梯度的新型三维导湿结构面料。将纬编间隔、双罗纹作为对比组织结构,设置9.5,10.0,10.5 mm 3种线圈长度,及细度比为28:33、28:50、28:67的3种亲疏水纱线,设计编织9种面料; 对其芯吸高度、透湿性、透气性、顶破强力和抗起毛起球性进行测试,分析各因素对面料性能的影响。结果显示,组织结构、线圈长度、亲疏水纱线细度比对面料性能都有一定程度的影响。基于测试数据采用模糊综合评价对其进行综合评价与排序,综合性能最优的为采用三维导湿结构、线圈长度10.0 mm、亲疏水纱线细度比28:50的面料。
Abstract:
Based on bionics, a novel three-dimensional moisture conductive structure with asymmetric wettability gradients was designed and developed. Taking weft-knitted spacer fabrics and interlock fabrics as the comparative structures,nine fabric samples were engineered and knitted by systematically varying three key parameters: weft-knitted spacer structure, and double rib structure), three loop lengths(9.5, 10.0 and 10.5 mm), and three fineness ratios of hydrophilic-to-hydrophobic yarns(28:33, 28:50 and 28:67). Subsequently, the samples were subjected to a series of performance characterizations, including measurements of wicking height, moisture vapor transmission rate(MVTR), air permeability, bursting strength, and anti-pilling resistance. The effects of each variable on fabric performance were statistically analyzed. The results indicated that fabric structure, loop length, and the fineness ratio of hydrophilic-to-hydrophobic yarns all exerted a significant influence on the tested properties to varying degrees. Finally, a fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method was employed to conduct a holistic assessment and ranking of the samples based on the experimental data. The fabric sample incorporating the 3D moisture-wicking structure, a loop length of 10.0 mm, and a hydrophilic-to-hydrophobic yarn fineness ratio of 28:50 was identified as exhibiting the optimal overall performance.

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(责任编辑:卢 杰)

更新日期/Last Update: 2025-12-30