[1]王怡怡,杜立新,田明伟,等.低熔点涤纶长丝在高保形针织面料中的应用[J].服装学报,2025,10(04):283-288.
　WANG Yiyi,DU Lixin,TIAN Mingwei,et al.Application of Low-Melting-Point Polyester Filament in High-Shape-Retention Knitted Fabrics[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2025,10(04):283-288.
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低熔点涤纶长丝在高保形针织面料中的应用()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第10卷
期数:
2025年04期
页码:
283-288
栏目:
服装材料
出版日期:
2025-09-13

文章信息/Info

Title:
Application of Low-Melting-Point Polyester Filament in High-Shape-Retention Knitted Fabrics
作者:
王怡怡1; 2;  杜立新2;  田明伟1;  曲志强2;  贾云辉2
1. 青岛大学 纺织服装学院,山东 青岛 266071; 2. 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司,山东 淄博 255100
Author(s):
WANG Yiyi1; 2;  DU Lixin2;  TIAN Mingwei1;  QU Zhiqiang2;  JIA Yunhui2
1.College of Textiles and Clothing,Qingdao University,Qingdao 266071,China; 2. Luthai Textile Co.,Ltd., Zibo 255100,China
分类号:
TS 182.5
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
针对针织面料保形性较差的问题,采用涡流纺棉包芯低熔点涤纶长丝纱线(简称低熔点涤纶包芯纱)开发针织面料。通过对比皮芯结构和点状结构两种低熔点涤纶长丝在不同热处理温度下的熔融效果,从水洗尺寸稳定性、折皱回复性、拉伸回复性及抗弯刚度4个方面对针织面料的性能进行系统分析。结果显示,使用低熔点涤纶包芯纱可显著改善面料的水洗尺寸稳定性、折皱回复角和拉伸回复性; 随着热处理温度的升高,低熔点涤纶熔融效果越来越显著,面料的保形性进一步提升,但手感变硬。研究表明,皮芯结构低熔点涤纶包芯纱所织面料的保形性优于点状结构低熔点涤纶包芯纱所织面料,但手感更差; 皮芯结构低熔点涤纶包芯纱所织面料宜用185 ℃进行热处理,而点状结构低熔点涤纶包芯纱所织面料宜用195 ℃进行热处理,以达到针织面料保形性与手感的平衡。
Abstract:
To address the issue of poor shape retention of knitted fabrics, vortex cotton low-melting-point polyester filament core-spun yarn(abbreviated as LMP polyester core-spun yarn)was used to develop knitted fabrics. By comparing the melting effects of two types of LMP polyester filaments, core-sheath structure and dot-shaped structure, under different heat treatment temperatures, the performance of knitted fabrics was systematically analyzed from four aspects: dimensional stability to washing, wrinkle recovery, tensile recovery, and bending stiffness. The results indicate that employing LMP polyester core-spun yarn can significantly enhance the dimensional stability after washing, the wrinkle recovery angle, and the tensile recovery properties.As the heat treatment temperature increases, the melting effect of LMP polyester becomes more pronounced, leading to enhanced shape retention, though it is accompanied by a stiffer fabric hand feel. The study demonstrates that fabrics produced with core-sheath LMP polyester core-spun yarn exhibited superior shape retention compared to those with dot-shaped structure LMP polyester core-spun yarn, but exhibited a poorer hand feel. Optimal heat treatment temperatures are identified as 185 ℃ for fabrics using core-sheath structure LMP polyester core-spun yarn and 195 ℃ for fabrics using dot-shaped structure LMP polyester core-spun yarn, achieving a balance between shape retention and hand feel in knitted fabrics.

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(责任编辑:沈天琦)

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更新日期/Last Update: 2025-08-30