[1]付雅雯,梁惠娥*.清代京杭大运河沿线民俗服饰的研究现状与趋势[J].服装学报,2021,6(02):152-157.
　FU Yawen,LIANG Huie*.Research Status and Trend of Folk Costumes Along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Qing Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2021,6(02):152-157.
点击复制

清代京杭大运河沿线民俗服饰的研究现状与趋势()
分享到：

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第6卷
期数:
2021年02期
页码:
152-157
栏目:
服装历史与文化
出版日期:
2021-04-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Research Status and Trend of Folk Costumes Along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Qing Dynasty
作者:
付雅雯1; 2;  梁惠娥*1; 2; 3
1.江南大学 设计学院,江苏 无锡 214122; 2.江南大学 江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏 无锡 214122; 3.无锡工艺职业技术学院 名师工作室,江苏 宜兴 214206
Author(s):
FU Yawen1; 2;  LIANG Hui’e*1; 2; 3
1.School of Design, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China; 2.Intangible Cultural Heritage Research Base in Jiangsu Province,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China; 3. Master Studio, Wuxi Vocational Institute of Arts and Technology,Yixing 214206,China
分类号:
TS 941.12
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
采用文献调查的方法,整理国内外学者对清代京杭大运河沿线民俗服饰的研究,归纳相关理论,以运河沿线地域服饰为载体,对清代京杭大运河沿线民俗服饰的研究现状、趋势进行分析。认为研究京杭大运河沿线民俗影响下的民间服饰是对清代民俗服饰文化和地域服饰文化研究体系的双向补充,从横向和纵向探究运河文化对民俗服饰产生的影响,进而理清运河文化与运河沿线民俗服饰的内在逻辑关系,为研究运河地域服饰文化提供参考。
Abstract:
Using the method of literature survey, this paper sorted out the domestic and foreign scholars’ research on the folk costumes along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Qing Dynasty, summarized the relevant theories, and analyzed the research status and trend of the folk costumes along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal in Qing Dynasty by taking the regional costumes along the canal as the carrier. It was a two-way complement to the research system of Qing Dynasty flok costume culture and regional costume culture to study folk costumes along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal. It could explore the influence of canal on folk costumes horizontally and vertically, and clarify the inherent logical relationship between them to provide a reference for the study of costume culture along the canal.

参考文献/References:

[1] 沈从文.中国古代服饰研究[M].上海:上海书店出版社,2005.
[2] 周锡保.中国古代服饰史[M].北京:中央编译出版社,2011.
[3] 孙机.中国古舆服论丛[M].增订本.上海:上海古籍出版社,2013.
[4] 李雨来,李晓君,李晓建.清代服饰制度与传世实物考[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2020.
[5] 故宫博物院.天朝衣冠——故宫博物院藏清代宫廷服饰精品展[M].北京:紫禁城出版社,2008.
[6] 宗凤英.清代宫廷服饰[M].北京:紫禁城出版社,2004.
[7] 故宫博物院.故宫经典——清宫后妃氅衣图典[M].北京:故宫出版社,2014.
[8] 刘瑞璞,魏佳儒.清古典袍服结构与纹章规制研究[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2018.
[9] 李晓君.清代龙袍的时代特征和文化意蕴[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2014.
[10] 王金华,王哲.中国传统服饰——清代女子服装·首饰[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2018.
[11] 孙彦贞.清代女性服饰文化研究[M].上海:上海古籍出版社,2008.
[12] 严勇.清代服饰等级[J].紫禁城,2008(10):70-81.
YAN Yong.Clothing rank in Qing Dynasty[J].Forbidden City,2008(10):70-81.(in Chinese)
[13] 郑煦卓.清朝驻京喇嘛服饰制度研究[J].艺术设计研究,2014(3):43- 47.
ZHENG Xuzhuo.Research on Beijing lama costume institutions of Qing Dynasty[J].Art and Design Research,2014(3):43- 47.(in Chinese)
[14] 王业宏,刘剑,金鉴梅.从舒妃服装遗物看乾隆中期色彩时尚及染色工艺[J].艺术设计研究,2018(4):40- 45.
WANG Yehong,LIU Jian,JIN Jianmei.A study on color fashion and dying techniques in the middle Qianlong imperial regime according to the costumes of Shu Fei the imperial consort[J].Art and Design Research,2018(4):40- 45.(in Chinese)
[15] 陈杨.故宫院藏清代服饰类文物的整形技术与缝补工艺研究——以清戏服“粉色缎绣折枝花纹宫衣”为例[J].自然与文化遗产研究,2019,4(8):115-122.
CHEN Yang.Research on plastic surgery technology and sewing technique of Qing Dynasty costumes in the Palace Museum—taking "the pink embroidery pattern costumes" of the Qing Dynasty as an example[J].Study on Natural and Cultural Heritage,2019,4(8):115-122.(in Chinese)
[16] 王淑华.清代服饰三蓝绣文化基因传播与传承路径探究[J].东华大学学报(社会科学版), 2019,19(2):145-151.
WANG Shuhua.A study on the gene transmission and inheritance of the three blue embroidery culture in Qing Dynasty costume[J].Journal of Donghua University(Social Science),2019,19(2):145-151.(in Chinese)
[17] 华梅.服饰民俗学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2004.
[18] 梁惠娥,崔荣荣,贾蕾蕾.汉族民间服饰文化[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2018.
[19] 崔荣荣,牛犁.明代以来汉族民间服饰变革与社会变迁:1368—1949年[M].武汉:武汉理工大学出版社,2016.
[20] 邢乐,梁惠娥.西风涟漪:近代中原汉族民间服饰变迁[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2019.
[21] 李昕,贺阳.随“方”而制——“一带一路”沿线地区的传统民俗服饰结构[J].南方文物,2019(2):220-227.
LI Xin,HE Yang.Design according to "fang" —the structure of traditional folk costume in the regions along "the Belt and Road"[J].Cultural Relics in Southern China,2019(2):220-227.(in Chinese)
[22] 杨雪,刘瑜.丝绸之路中外服饰艺术交流研究现状[J].服装学报,2019,4(4):347-354.
YANG Xue,LIU Yu.Review of studies on the art exchange of Chinese and foreign costumes along the Silk Road[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(4):347-354.(in Chinese)
[23] 邢乐,梁惠娥,刘水.民间服饰云肩中人物纹样的语义考析[J].艺术设计研究,2015(1):54- 60.
XING Le,LIANG Hui’e,LIU Shui.Figure patterns of folk costume—yunjian and its significance[J].Art and Design Research,2015(1):54- 60.(in Chinese)
[24] 王忆雯,梁惠娥.民间眉勒造型与纹样艺术研究[J].丝绸,2018,55(11):84-88.
WANG Yiwen,LIANG Hui’e.Folk mele modeling and pattern art research[J].Journal of Silk,2018,55(11):84-88.(in Chinese)
[25] 卢杰,牛犁,崔荣荣.近代汉族民间童帽的装饰元素[J].纺织学报,2016,37(4):119-123.
LU Jie,NIU Li,CUI Rongrong.Modern decorative elements of Han folk children bonnets[J].Journal of Textile Research,2016,37(4):119-123.(in Chinese)
[26] 柯玲. 春之时装 梦的衣裳——浅谈民间传统立春服饰的特征及文化意蕴[J].东华大学学报(社会科学版),2019,19(1):37- 43.
KE Ling.Clothes of spring fashion dream—a study on the characteristics and cultural implications of folk traditional lichun costumes[J]. Journal of Donghua University(Social Science),2019,19(1):37- 43.(in Chinese)
[27] 安作璋.中国运河文化史[M].济南:山东教育出版社,2001.
[28] 陈璧显.中国大运河史[M].北京:中华书局,2001.
[29] 姜师立,陈跃,文啸,等.京杭大运河历史文化及发展[M].北京:电子工业出版社,2014.
[30] 荀德麟,刘志平,李想,等.京杭大运河非物质文化遗产[M].北京:电子工业出版社, 2014.
[31] 许大海.京杭运河区域(山东段)民间手工艺的现状与对策研究[M].镇江:江苏大学出版社,2019.
[32] 胡梦飞.明清时期山东运河区域民间信仰研究[M].北京:社会科学文献出版社,2019.
[33] 高建军.山东运河民俗[M].济南:济南出版社,2006.
[34] 胡梦飞.中国运河水神[M].济南:山东大学出版社,2018.
[35] 罗伯特·哈罗.世界民间服饰[M].黄晓敏,黄桂珊,译.上海:上海文艺出版社,1993.
[36] 中川忠英.清俗纪闻[M].方克,孙玄龄,译.北京:中华书局,2006.
[37] DOROTHY K.Every step a lotus: shoes for bound feet[M].Berkeley:University of California Press,2001.
[38] 高彦颐.缠足:“金莲崇拜”盛极而衰的演变[M].苗延威,译.南京:江苏人民出版社,2009.
[39] 乔治·马戛尔尼,约翰·巴罗.马戛尔尼使团使华观感[M].何高济,何毓宁,译.北京:商务印书馆,2013.
[40] 乔治·斯当东.英使谒见乾隆纪实[M].钱丽,译.北京:电子工业出版社,2016.
[41] 威廉·亚历山大.西洋镜:中国衣冠举止图解[M].赵省伟,邱丽媛,编译.北京:北京理工大学出版社,2016.
[42] 爱尼斯·安德逊.在大清帝国的航行:英国人眼中的乾隆盛世[M].费振东,译.北京:电子工业出版社,2015.
[43] 克拉克·阿裨尔.中国旅行记(1816—1817年)——阿美士德使团医官笔下的清代中国[M].刘海岩,译.刘天路,校.上海:上海古籍出版社,2012.
[44] 梁惠娥,沈天琦.地域性服饰色彩的研究现状与发展趋势[J].服装学报,2016,1(1):90-93.122.
LIANG Hui’e,SHEN Tianqi.Current situation and future development trend of regional clothing color[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2016,1(1):90-93.122.(in Chinese)
(责任编辑:沈天琦)

相似文献/References:

[1]曾 慧.清代文献《穿戴档》服饰——服装篇[J].服装学报,2016,1(03):333.
　ZENG Hui.Investigation of Costumes in Qing Dynasty "the Dress Archives"[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2016,1(02):333.
[2]沈 玉,吴 欣*,付燕妮.清代龙纹袍的袖部形制特点及内涵[J].服装学报,2020,5(02):134.
　SHEN Yu,WU Xin*,FU Yanni.Modeling Features and Connotations of Dragon Robe Sleeves in Qing Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(02):134.
[3]李俞霏,王雪茹.清代山东诞生礼仪与服饰民俗[J].服装学报,2023,8(05):417.
　LI Yufei,WANG Xueru.Birth Etiquette and Costume Custom of Shandong in Qing Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2023,8(02):417.

更新日期/Last Update: 1900-01-01