[1]蒋高明,郑培晓.全成形针织毛衫编织工艺与装备技术研究进展[J].服装学报,2019,4(01):40-48.
　JIANG Gaoming,ZHENG Peixiao.Research Progress on Knitting and Equipment Technology of Whole Knitted Garment[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(01):40-48.
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全成形针织毛衫编织工艺与装备技术研究进展()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第4卷
期数:
2019年01期
页码:
40-48
栏目:
服装工程技术
出版日期:
2019-02-28

文章信息/Info

Title:
Research Progress on Knitting and Equipment Technology of Whole Knitted Garment
作者:
蒋高明;  郑培晓
江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
JIANG Gaoming;  ZHENG Peixiao
Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China
分类号:
TS 181.8
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
为突破传统服装生产模式无法一体成形的局限性,实现从传统到新型生产模式的变革,研究了新型全成形生产模式的罗纹起口、圆筒平针、开口成形编织工艺,探讨了全成形织造设备四针床电脑横机的针床、织针、送纱装置等核心装备技术。基于四针床电脑横机,将编织工艺应用于背心、V领短袖、长袖开衫等全成形经典款式,分析全成形针织毛衫关键部位的设计要点和单筒形、多筒形结构变化。通过对比发现,可一线成衣的新型全成形生产模式将传统的刚性生产模式变成了柔性生产线,具有减少生产流程、减少原料损耗、改善产品性能、符合绿色生产、满足高端定制等优势与特点。
Abstract:
In order to break through the limitations of the traditional clothing production mode and realize the transformation from traditional to new production mode, the paper studied the knitting process of rib-starting, tubular plain and open-end forming in a new production mode of whole garment, and discussed the core equipment technology of the four-needle bed, knitting needle, yarn feeding device and so on. Based on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine, this paper applied the knitting process to classic styles of whole garment such as vests, V-neck shirts and long-sleeve cardigans, then analyzed the design points of key parts and the changes of single cylinder and multi-cylinder structure in whole knitted garment. By comparison, it is found that the new production mode of whole garment which can be ready to wear turns the traditional rigid production mode into a flexible production line and has advantages of reducing production process, reducing raw material loss, improving product performance, conforming to green production, meeting high-end customization and so on.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2019-02-27