[1]李佳坤,潘妤佳,李欣华*.海南黎锦织造技艺的匠心传承与活态应用[J].服装学报,2026,11(03):276-282.
 LI Jiakun,PAN Yujia,LI Xinhua*.Ingenious Inheritance and Living Application of Hainan Li Brocade Weaving Craftsmanship[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2026,11(03):276-282.
点击复制

海南黎锦织造技艺的匠心传承与活态应用()

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第11卷
期数:
2026年03期
页码:
276-282
栏目:
服装设计
出版日期:
2026-07-23

文章信息/Info

Title:
Ingenious Inheritance and Living Application of Hainan Li Brocade Weaving Craftsmanship
作者:
李佳坤1;  潘妤佳2;  李欣华*1
1.浙江理工大学 服装学院, 浙江 杭州 310018; 2. 新昌职业高级中学, 浙江 绍兴 312599
Author(s):
LI Jiakun1;  PAN Yujia2;  LI Xinhua*1
1.School of Fashion Design and Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China; 2. Xinchang Vocational High School, Shaoxing 312599, China
分类号:
TS 941.12
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
针对当前民族织绣技艺在现代服饰设计中应用尚不充分的问题,采用理论研究和艺术创意实践相结合的方法,以海南黎锦织造技艺为例,从织造原理、织物结构与纹样构图特征角度剖析黎锦的文化内涵; 以现代服饰为载体,对黎锦的织造技艺进行手工艺术转化实践,探讨其匠心技艺手工转化的可行性; 从图案和工艺技法两个方面入手,结合数字化技术、现代设计理念和技法,展示黎锦织造技艺在现代服饰中的应用。研究表明,通过手工技艺转化的艺术实践,可以有效促进民族传统织绣技艺的活态应用,实现其价值转化和创造性发展。
Abstract:
In response to the current issue of insufficient application of traditional Chinese ethnic weaving and embroidery craftsmanship in modern apparel design, this study adopted a methodology combining theoretical research and artistic creative practice. Taking Hainan Li brocade weaving craftsmanship as a case study, this paper analyzed the cultural connotations of Li brocade from the perspectives of weaving principles, fabric structure and pattern composition characteristics. Taking modern apparel as the carrier, this study carried out the artistic transformation practice of the craftsmanship of Li brocade weaving, discussed the feasibility of the manual transformation of this exquisite traditional craftsmanship. Starting from the two dimensions of pattern and processing technology, and integrating digital technology, modern design concepts and techniques, this study demonstrated the application of Li brocade weaving craftsmanship in modern apparel. Research findings indicate that through the artistic practice of traditional manual craftsmanship transformation, the living application of traditional ethnic weaving and embroidery craftsmanship can be effectively promoted, and its value transformation and creative development can be realized.

参考文献/References:

[1] 王学萍. 中国黎族[M]. 北京: 民族出版社, 2004.
[2] 高泽强. 海南岛树皮布历史溯源[J]. 广西民族研究, 2007(2): 144-151.
Gao Zeqiang. The historical origin of bark cloth of Hainan Island[J]. Study of Ethnics in Guangxi, 2007(2): 144-151.(in Chinese)
[3] 刘超强, 达瑟. 黎锦织造工艺[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2007.
[4] 周倜, 梁惠娥. 1988—2019年海南黎族服饰文化研究综述[J]. 服装学报, 2021, 6(5): 408- 415.
Zhou Ti, Liang Hui’e. Track of Hainan Li’s costume cultural changes in the past 30 years[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2021, 6(5): 408- 415.(in Chinese)
[5] 冯建章. 论黎锦的文化救赎功能[J]. 民族文学研究, 2015, 33(1): 118-126.
Feng Jianzhang. On the cultural redemption function of Li brocade[J]. Studies of Ethnic Literature, 2015, 33(1): 118-126.(in Chinese)
[6] 洪寿祥, 李永喜. 黎族织贝珍品·衣裳艺术图腾百图集[M]. 海口: 海南出版社, 2007.
[7] 李文锦, 陈彬. 黎锦蛙纹的美学形式[J]. 服装学报, 2022, 7(4): 349-353.
Li Wenjin, Chen Bin. On the aesthetic form of Li brocade frog pattern[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2022, 7(4): 349-353.(in Chinese)
[8] 何素丹, 袁晓芳. 情感化视角下黎锦文创产品设计研究[J]. 包装工程, 2024, 45(10): 349-357.
He Sudan, Yuan Xiaofang. Design of Li brocade cultural and creative products from the perspective of emotional design[J]. Packaging Engineering, 2024, 45(10): 349-357.(in Chinese)
[9] 胡婷, 李雪, 刘军, 等. 海南黎锦纹样与皮革制品设计的互动探索[J]. 皮革科学与工程, 2025, 35(2): 88-93.
Hu Ting, Li Xue, Liu Jun, et al. Interactive exploration of Hainan Li brocade pattern into leather design[J]. Leather Science and Engineering, 2025, 35(2): 88-93.(in Chinese)
[10] 汪济英, 牟永抗. 关于吴兴钱山漾遗址的发掘[J]. 考古, 1980(4): 353-358, 360.
Wang Jiying, Mou Yongkang. Excavation of Qianshanyang site in Wuxing[J]. Archaeology, 1980(4): 353-358, 360.(in Chinese)
[11] 刘文良. “非遗”视域下湘西苗绣传承的创新路径[J]. 西北民族大学学报(哲学社会科学版), 2020(5): 136-144.
Liu Wenliang. On the path to innovation of Miao embroidery in western Hunan from the perspective of intangible cultural heritage[J]. Journal of Northwest Minzu University(Philosophy and Social Sciences), 2020(5): 136-144.(in Chinese)
[12] 金琳, 楼婷. 八都麻绣的织绣技艺和艺术特征[J]. 丝绸, 2014, 51(10): 37- 44.
Jin Lin, Lou Ting. Weaving and embroidery techniques and artistic features of Badu ramie embroidery[J]. Journal of Silk, 2014, 51(10): 37- 44.(in Chinese)
[13] 杨艺. 唐以来嘉绒藏族刺绣技艺的发展[J]. 中华文化论坛, 2015(9): 105-109.
Yang Yi. Development of Zang ethnic embroidery skills in Jiarong since Tang Dynasty[J]. Forum on Chinese Culture, 2015(9): 105-109.(in Chinese)
[14] 吕亚持, 方泽明. 畲族服饰中传统元素的文化内涵以及应用研究[J]. 贵州民族研究, 2018, 39(10): 120-124.
L? Yachi, Fang Zeming. Research on the cultural connotation and application of traditional elements in She costume[J]. Guizhou Ethnic Studies, 2018, 39(10): 120-124.(in Chinese)
[15] 周倜, 梁惠娥. 从“人形纹”构造看黎族生存智慧的三个维度[J]. 中南民族大学学报(人文社会科学版), 2020, 40(6): 54- 60.
Zhou Ti, Liang Hui’e. Three dimensions of Li people’s living wisdom from the perspective of the "human-shaped pattern" structure[J]. Journal of South-Central University for Nationalities(Humanities and Social Sciences), 2020, 40(6): 54- 60.(in Chinese)
[16] 王世舜,王翠叶. 尚书[M]. 北京: 中华书局, 2012.
[17] 苏淼, 单旭波, 龙博, 等. 海南杞方言区黎族织锦工艺及纹样研究[J]. 丝绸, 2023, 60(9): 135-144.
Su Miao, Shan Xubo, Long Bo, et al. Study of brocade weaving techniques and patterns of the Li ethnic group in the Qi dialect of Hainan[J]. Journal of Silk, 2023, 60(9): 135-144.(in Chinese)
[18] 林开耀, 林珈兆. 黎锦技艺保护与传承研究[J]. 黔南民族师范学院学报, 2017, 37(1): 21-27.
Lin Kaiyao, Lin Jiazhao. Research on the skill protection and inheritance of brocade of Li nationality[J]. Journal of Qiannan Normal University for Nationalities, 2017, 37(1): 21-27.(in Chinese)
[19] 钱小萍, 沈芝娴, 方婷玉. 黎锦的结构与织造工艺及其龙被刺绣技法研究[J]. 丝绸, 2021, 58(11): 1- 4.
Qian Xiaoping, Shen Zhixian, Fang Tingyu. Research on Li brocade structure and weaving process and dragon quilt embroidery technique[J]. Journal of Silk, 2021, 58(11): 1- 4.(in Chinese)
[20] 李强, 李建强, 吴愿心, 等. 基于小样织机的传统黎锦织法研究[J]. 服饰导刊, 2015, 4(1): 74-77.
Li Qiang, Li Jianqiang, Wu Yuanxin, et al. Research on the traditional Li brocade weaving method based on the sample loom[J]. Fashion Guide, 2015, 4(1): 74-77.(in Chinese)
[21] 陈思莲. 海南黎族原始自然崇拜的哲学分析[J]. 中央民族大学学报(哲学社会科学版), 2010, 37(5): 99-104.
Chen Silian. Philosophical analysis about original naturism of the Li ethnic group in Hainan[J]. Journal of Minzu University of China(Philosophy and Social Sciences Edition), 2010, 37(5): 99-104.(in Chinese)
(责任编辑:沈天琦)

相似文献/References:

[1]陈建伟,司亚慧,金 蕾.黎锦织造工艺及其文化特征探源[J].服装学报,2016,1(01):101.
 CHEN Jianwei,SI Yahui,JIN Lei.Weaving Processing of Li Brocade and Cultural Characteristics Study[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2016,1(03):101.
[2]胡建芳,张 静,陈 珊.分享经济下刺绣类非物质文化遗产的活态传承[J].服装学报,2020,5(04):350.
 HU Jianfang,ZHANG Jing,CHEN Shan.Living Inheritance of Embroidery Intangible Cultural Heritage under Sharing Economy[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(03):350.
[3]张守用,梁惠娥*.博物馆视角下畲族传统服饰的活态传[J].服装学报,2020,5(06):527.
 ZHANG Shouyong,LIANG Huie*.Living Inheritance of She Traditional Costume from the Perspective of Museum[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(03):527.
[4]李文锦,陈 彬*.黎锦蛙纹的美学形式[J].服装学报,2022,7(04):349.
 LI Wenjin,CHEN Bin*.On the Aesthetic Form of Li Brocade Frog Pattern[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2022,7(03):349.

更新日期/Last Update: 2026-06-30