[1]苏 怡,蒋玉秋*.明初生员襕衫玉色的物质特征与文化隐喻[J].服装学报,2026,11(03):269-275.
　SU Yi,JIANG Yuqiu*.Material Characteristics and Cultural Symbolism of the Jade-Colored Lanshan Robes Worn by Shengyuan in the Early Ming Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2026,11(03):269-275.
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明初生员襕衫玉色的物质特征与文化隐喻()

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第11卷
期数:
2026年03期
页码:
269-275
栏目:
服装设计
出版日期:
2026-07-23

文章信息/Info

Title:
Material Characteristics and Cultural Symbolism of the Jade-Colored Lanshan Robes Worn by Shengyuan in the Early Ming Dynasty
作者:
苏 怡;  蒋玉秋*
北京服装学院 美术学院,北京 100029
Author(s):
SU Yi;  JIANG Yuqiu*
School of Fine Art,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China
分类号:
J 523
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
明初太祖朱元璋亲定生员襕衫服色为“玉色”。围绕“玉色襕衫”的色彩制定,从观念、物质、文化3个维度,采用三重证据法,考察襕衫服色“以玉代白”的历史动因,结合染色实践比照,探究玉色的物质性特征,分析其在明德、辨等、守礼方面的象征意义。研究表明:为避白色之忌,明初生员襕衫改用玉色。该色以明代“浆水玉”色相为重要参照,呈现“白微青绿、深浅不一”的色域特征。襕衫玉色的选定体现了明太祖对生员群体“文德之质”的期许,以及借用服饰色彩重塑生员形象、维系等级秩序与施行礼仪教化的用意。
Abstract:
In the early Ming, Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang prescribed jade color for shengyuan’ lanshan robes. Focusing on the chromatic regulation of this "jade-hued lanshan", this study approaches the topic from conceptual, material, and cultural dimensions, and adopts a threefold evidentiary method to critically examine the historical motivation for "substituting jade for white". In conjunction with comparative tests drawn from practical dyeing, it investigates the material characteristics of the jade hue and analyzes its cultural symbolism in relation to the manifestation of virtue, the differentiation of status, and the observance of ritual propriety. The findings indicate that, to avoid the taboo attached to the color white, the shengyuan’ lanshan robes in the early Ming adopted the jade hue. Taking the Ming-period category of "jiangshui jade" as the chro-matic referent, this hue occupies a range characterized as "white faintly tinged with bluish green, with variable depth". The selection of the jade hue reflects Ming Taizu’s expectation that the Shengyuan embody a "substance of civil virtue", and his intent to reshape their public image through garment color, uphold hierarchical order, and implement ritual pedagogy.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2026-06-30