[1]智语涵,崔荣荣,郭炤含,等.基于马面裙“再流行”的消费导向与时尚心理研究[J].服装学报,2026,11(02):167-173.
　ZHI Yuhan,CUI Rongrong,GUO Zhaohan,et al.Consumption Orientations and Fashion Psychology in the "Re-Popularization" of the Horse-Face Skirt[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2026,11(02):167-173.
点击复制

基于马面裙“再流行”的消费导向与时尚心理研究()

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第11卷
期数:
2026年02期
页码:
167-173
栏目:
服装设计
出版日期:
2026-05-20

文章信息/Info

Title:
Consumption Orientations and Fashion Psychology in the "Re-Popularization" of the Horse-Face Skirt
作者:
智语涵1;  崔荣荣2;  郭炤含3;  张瑞霞*1
1.内蒙古师范大学 设计学院,内蒙古 呼和浩特 010022; 2.浙江理工大学 服装学院,浙江 杭州 310018; 3.江南大学 设计学院,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
ZHI Yuhan1;  CUI Rongrong2;  GUO Zhaohan3;  ZHANG Ruixia*1
1. School of Design, Inner Mongolia Normal University, Hohhot 010022, China; 2. School of Fashion Design and Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China; 3. School of Design, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China
分类号:
TS 941.12
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
马面裙作为中华传统服饰的典型代表,其形制独特、文化底蕴深厚,近年来实现了从博物馆展品到日常时尚单品的转型。通过文献梳理与案例分析,系统探讨马面裙从宋代起源至当代复兴的演变历程,归纳了其在形制、工艺、装饰等方面的设计变革。从民族符号认同、圈层身份构建、市场风格导向3个维度分析马面裙“再流行”背后的消费导向; 再从审美范式、集体情怀具身化、文化解码与时尚编码3个层面,阐释马面裙流行的时尚心理。研究认为,马面裙的当代复兴不仅是传统服饰的现代转化,更是文化自信与消费行为互动的结果。该研究为传统服饰在当代的活化传承提供了理论参考与实践路径。
Abstract:
As a representative form of traditional Chinese dress, the horse-face skirt is distinguished by its unique structure and profound cultural connotations. In recent years, it has undergone a transformation from a museum artifact to an item of everyday fashion. By reviewing of relevant literature and case studies, this paper systematically examines the historical evolution of the horse-face skirt from its origins in the Song Dynasty to its contemporary revival, and summarizes the design transformations in terms of structure, craftsmanship, and decoration. Furthermore, the study analyzes the consumption orientations underlying the “re-popularization” of the horse-face skirt from three dimensions: national symbolic identification, subcultural identity construction, and market-oriented stylistic tendencies. From the perspectives of aesthetic paradigms, the embodiment of collective sentiment, and the interaction between cultural decoding and fashion encoding, this paper elucidates the fashion psychology driving the popularity of the horse-face skirt. The study argues that the contem-porary revival of the horse-face skirt is not merely a modern transformation of traditional dress, but also the result of the interaction between cultural confidence and consumer behavior, providing theoretical references and practical pathways for the living heritage and contemporary transmission of traditional dress.

参考文献/References:

[1] 艾媒咨询.2024—2025年中国汉服产业现状及消费行为数据研究报告[EB/OL].(2023-11-24)[2025-10-11].https://report.iimedia.cn/repo18-0/43508.html.
[2] 黄能馥. 中国服饰通史[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2007.
[3] 祁姿妤. 清代马面裙形制研究[D]. 北京: 北京服装学院, 2012.
[4] 李霞. 清末民初马面裙的实物研究[D]. 上海: 东华大学, 2006.
[5] 杨子田, 雷梦洁, 王诗琪. 马面裙的定义与结构特征来源探析[J]. 服装学报, 2024, 9(4): 290-295, 347.
Yang Zitian, Lei Mengjie, Wang Shiqi. Analysis of the definition and structural feature source of the horse-face skirt[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2024, 9(4): 290-295, 347.(in Chinese)
[6] 王懿, 张竞琼. 近代马面裙形制类型与演变的实例分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2014, 35(4): 110-115.
Wang Yi, Zhang Jingqiong. Study on molding types and development of horse-face skirt in modern times[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2014, 35(4): 110-115.(in Chinese)
[7] 汪曦, 崔荣荣. 基于民俗语意的凤尾裙符号解读[J]. 丝绸, 2019, 56(11): 98-104.
Wang Xi, Cui Rongrong. An interpretation of phoenix-tail skirt’ s symbol based on folk meaning[J]. Journal of Silk, 2019, 56(11): 98-104.(in Chinese)
[8] 邹彬. 基于感性工学的马面裙再造应用研究[D]. 济南: 齐鲁工业大学, 2023.
[9] 凤凰网.Dior马面裙事件再发酵 中国留学生在品牌巴黎旗舰店抗议并要求道歉[EB/OL].(2022-07-24)[2025-10-11].https://i.ifeng.com/c/8HuONgQ5Er5.
[10] 丁雅栀.《逃出大英博物馆》火爆出圈,微短剧凭啥让人上头[EB/OL].(2023-10-13)[2025-10-11].https://ent.huanqiu.com/article/4Euwni3IEFG.
[11] 关晓彤工作室.2024 年央视春晚《年锦》节目造型剧照[EB/OL].(2024-02-09)[2025-10-11].https://m.weibo.cn/u/6100206722.
[12] 北京大学汇丰商学院创新创业中心.2024新汉服产业网络平台发展研究报告[EB/OL].[2025-10-11].https://www.fxbaogao.com/view?id=4372402.
[13] 田宜龙,王雪娜.洛阳“汉服”何以火爆出圈[N].河南日报,2023-04-26(11).
[14] 林鹏飞,牛犁.明代常州王洛家族墓出土马面裙研究[J].丝绸,2023,60(7):135-142.
Lin Pengfei, Niu Li. Study on horse-face skirts unearthed from tombs of the Wang Luo family in Changzhou in the Ming Dynasty [J]. Journal of Silk, 2023, 60(7): 135-142.(in Chinese)
[15] 谭伟婷.行走的马面裙 非遗炫起来[N].广州日报,2023-08-03(S1).
[16] 杨梦雪.基于文化传承与创新语境下马面裙的研究及设计方法探析[D].青岛大学,2024.
[17] 抖音电商.2024抖音电商女性消费趋势数据报告[EB/OL].(2024-03-06)[2025-10-11].https://cn.chinadaily.com.cn/a/202403/08/WS65eaed69a3109f7860dd4a70.html.
[18] 北京青年报.马面裙热度不减,新汉服多领域跨界破圈[EB/OL].(2024-08-12)[2025-10-11].https://style.cctv.com/2024/08/12/ARTI8GdtD4yENGrXFSJx3ycp240812.shtml.
[19] 曹滢.山东曹县:马面裙之后,如何重返“顶流”?[EB/OL].(2025-07-04)[2025-10-11].https://www.news.cn/politics/20250704/969c2a497df9439593b06c23fd36e258/c.html.
[20] 国家统计局.人民文化生活日益丰富文化强国建设加力提速——新中国75年经济社会发展成就系列报告之二十一[EB/OL].(2024-09-24)[2025-10-11].https://www.stats.gov.cn/zt_18555/ztfx/xzg75njjshfzcj/202409/t20240924_1956644.html.
[21] 刘蕊, 牛犁, 崔荣荣. 文化IP下新中式时尚的设计方法及要素解析[J]. 服装学报, 2023, 8(4): 369-375.
Liu Rui, Niu Li, Cui Rongrong. Design methods and elements of new Chinese fashion from cultural intellectual property[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2023, 8(4): 369-375.(in Chinese)
[22] 黄祯桢, 刘傲冉, 吕巧莉, 等. 跨文化语境中丝绸文化符号的转译及传播路径[J]. 服装学报, 2025, 10(6): 525-529.
Huang Zhenzhen, Liu Aoran, Lü Qiaoli, et al. Translation and dissemination paths of silk cultural symbols in cross-cultural context[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2025, 10(6): 525-529.(in Chinese)
[23] 王斌. 新消费文化何以影响Z世代: 机制、风险与应对[J]. 中国青年研究, 2023(3): 14-21.
Wang Bin. How the new consumer culture influences generation Z: mechanism, risk and response[J]. China Youth Study, 2023(3): 14-21.(in Chinese)
[24] 刘玲玲, 付焕娜, 马彪. 基于多模态融合的新中式皮革女包设计创新应用[J]. 皮革科学与工程, 2025, 35(2): 94-101.
Liu Lingling, Fu Huanna, Ma Biao. Innovative application of new Chinese leather women’s bag design based on multimodal fusion[J]. Leather Science and Engineering, 2025, 35(2): 94-101.(in Chinese)
[25] 周星.中国人的“生活革命”[J].社会科学报,2017(6).
Zhou Xing. The "life revolution" of the Chinese people[J].Social Sciences Weekly, 2017(6).(in Chinese)
[26] 中国发展改革报社.中国正在从生存型消费迈向发展型消费[N/OL].(2025-08-25)[2026-02-09].https://www.ndrc.gov.cn/wsdwhfz/202508/t20250825_1399997.html.
[27] 侯敏枫. 基于中国传统美学精神的当代设计审美范式构建[J]. 文艺争鸣, 2024(8): 184-189.
Hou Minfeng. Construction of contemporary design aesthetic paradigm based on the spirit of traditional Chinese aesthetics[J]. Contention in Literature and Art, 2024(8): 184-189.(in Chinese)
[28] 周星. 生活革命与汉服运动——新阐释的可能性[J]. 西北民族研究, 2025(1): 44-57.
Zhou Xing. Life revolution and hanfu movement: the possibility of new interpretation[J]. Northwestern Journal of Ethnology, 2025(1): 44-57.(in Chinese)
[29] 杭间. 设计、身体与 “人的主体性”[J]. 装饰, 2025(4): 12-16.
Hang Jian. Design, the body and "human subjectivity"[J]. Art and Design, 2025(4): 12-16.(in Chinese)
[30] Hall S. Encoding—decoding[M]//Greer C. Crime and media: a reader. London: Routledge, 2019: 44-55.(责任编辑:卢 杰)

相似文献/References:

[1]杨子田,雷梦洁,王诗琪.马面裙的定义与结构特征来源探析[J].服装学报,2024,9(04):290.
　YANG Zitian,LEI Mengjie,WANG Shiqi.Analysis of the Definition and Structural Feature Source of the Horse-Face Skirt[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2024,9(02):290.

更新日期/Last Update: 2026-04-30