[1]杨秋华.近代粤绣设计范式转换的阐释与解读[J].服装学报,2024,9(06):556-561.
 YANG Qiuhua.Elucidation and Interpretation of the Paradigm Shift in Modern Cantonese Embroidery Design[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2024,9(06):556-561.
点击复制

近代粤绣设计范式转换的阐释与解读()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第9卷
期数:
2024年06期
页码:
556-561
栏目:
服装设计
出版日期:
2025-01-01

文章信息/Info

Title:
Elucidation and Interpretation of the Paradigm Shift in Modern Cantonese Embroidery Design
作者:
杨秋华
深圳职业技术大学 创新创意设计学院,广东 深圳 518055
Author(s):
YANG Qiuhua
School of Innovation and Creation Design, Shenzhen Polytechnic University, Shenzhen 518055,China
分类号:
TS 935.15; TS 941.2
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
运用科学哲学、图像学和文献学等理论,深入探讨近代粤绣设计范式转换的历史情境与驱动力,以及其与设计观念、设计途径、商贸模式转换之间的关系和过程。研究表明,近代粤绣设计范式的转换是多种因素共同作用的结果,其不仅受到社会变革、审美观念、生产与商贸模式变化等因素的影响,同时还受到新美术与实用工艺等理念的浸染,进而形成了粤绣采中原之精粹、纳四海之新风的独特风格。
Abstract:
This paper adopted theories such as the philosophy of science, iconology and philology to deeply explore the historical situation and driving forces of the transformation of the design paradigm of Cantonese embroidery in modern times, as well as the relationships and processes between it and the transformation of design concepts, design approaches and business and trade models. The study shows that the transformation of the design paradigm of Cantonese embroidery in modern times is the outcome of the joint effect of multiple factors. It is not only influenced by factors social changes, aesthetic concepts, changes in production and business and trade models, but also influenced by the concept of new art and practical craftsmanship, etc., and thus has formed the unique style of Cantonese embroidery that absorbs the essence of the Central Plains and incorporates new trends from all over the world.

参考文献/References:

[1] 杨晓旗. 20世纪岭南粤绣发展史[M]. 广州: 广州出版社, 2021.
[2] 龚伯洪. 万缕金丝: 广州刺绣: 广州民间艺术系列丛书[M]. 广州: 广东教育出版社, 2010.
[3] 罗洁, 廖煜容. 广绣与潮绣的艺术风格与工艺比较研究[J]. 装饰, 2022(1): 114-118.
LUO Jie, LIAO Yurong. Comparative study on artistic style and craft of Guangdong embroidery and Chaozhou embroidery[J]. Art and Design, 2022,(1): 114-118.(in Chinese)
[4] 李当岐. 中国潮绣[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2022.
[5] 杨秋华, 龚建培. 20世纪80年代西欧服饰时尚发展与中国外销印花绸设计范式的“革命性” 转换[J]. 艺术设计研究, 2024(1): 54- 60.
YANG Qiuhua, GONG Jianpei. The development of western European fashion in 1980’s and the "revolu-tionary" transformation of the design paradigm of Chinese export printed silk[J]. Art and Design Research, 2024(1): 54- 60.(in Chinese)
[6] 黄柏莉. 锦绣岭南: 广东刺绣[M]. 广州: 广东教育出版社, 2009: 30.
[7] 杜延. 潮汕抽纱艺术特色认知与传承发展[J]. 丝绸, 2017, 54(5): 62- 68.
DU Yan. Characteristic cognition and heritage development of Chaozhou-Shantou drawnwork art[J]. Journal of Silk, 2017, 54(5): 62- 68.(in Chinese)
[8] 苏鹗.杜阳杂编[M].台北:台湾商务印书馆,1979.
[9] 江苏省博物馆. 江苏省明清以来碑刻资料选集[M]. 北京: 生活·读书·新知三联书店, 1959: 30.
[10] 马克思,恩格斯.马克思恩格斯选集:第2卷[M]. 2版.北京.人民出版社,1995:23.
[11] 金炳华. 马克思主义哲学大辞典[M]. 上海: 上海辞书出版社, 2003: 216.
[12] 杨晓旗. 十三行时期广绣艺术语言的 “西化” 转向[J]. 艺海, 2019(8): 14-16.
YANG Xiaoqi. The "westernization" turn of the artistic language of Guangzhou embroidery in the thirteen hongs period [J]. Yihai, 2019(8): 14-16.(in Chinese)
[13] 乐逸. 南洋劝业会的绣品与杨夏的《刺绣论》[J]. 丝绸, 2004, 41(5): 46- 47.
LE Yi. Embroidery goods of Nanyang quanye chamber and embroidery theory of YANG Xia[J]. Journal of Silk, 2004, 41(5): 46- 47.(in Chinese)
[14] 丁佩, 姜昳. 绣谱[M]. 北京: 中华书局, 2012: 80.
[15] 屈大均.广东新语[M].北京:中华书局,1985:427.
[16] 广州市地方志编纂委员会.广州市志·工艺美术志[M].广州.广州出版社,1998:719.
[17] 徐堃. 十八、十九世纪广州十三行和外销画[D]. 南京: 南京航空航天大学, 2007.
(责任编辑:张 雪)

相似文献/References:

[1]梁惠娥,张竻雨.近代女性服装袖型特征及演变规律[J].服装学报,2017,2(02):171.
 LIANG Huie,ZHANG Leyu.Features and Development of Sleeves of Modern Women’s Clothing[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2017,2(06):171.
[2]王童欣,张竞琼*.近代绥远地区的垦殖迁移与服饰演变[J].服装学报,2021,6(03):233.
 WANG Tongxin,ZHANG Jingqiong*.Reclamation Migration and Costume Evolution in Suiyuan Area in Modern Times[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2021,6(06):233.
[3]白艳慧,王宏付*,张竞琼.近代民间男子马褂衣料特征[J].服装学报,2022,7(04):330.
 BAI Yanhui,WANG Hongfu*,ZHANG Jingqiong.Material Characteristics of Modern Folk Men’s Mandarin Jacket[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2022,7(06):330.
[4]贾蕾蕾,王沛尧,梁惠娥*.近代男性中式礼服研究现状与展望[J].服装学报,2023,8(03):242.
 JIA Leilei,WANG Peiyao,LIANG Huie*.Research Status and Prospects on Male Chinese-Style Dress in Modern Times[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2023,8(06):242.

更新日期/Last Update: 2024-12-30