[1]钟雪梅,乔 洪*,毛艺坛.五代时期归义军凉国夫人浔阳翟氏服饰考释[J].服装学报,2020,5(05):432-438.
　ZHONG Xuemei,QIAO Hong*,MAO Yitan.Study on the Costume of the Reguiar’s Army Lady Liang, Mrs. ZHAI of Xunyang in the Five Dynasties[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(05):432-438.
点击复制

五代时期归义军凉国夫人浔阳翟氏服饰考释()
分享到：

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第5卷
期数:
2020年05期
页码:
432-438
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2020-10-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Study on the Costume of the Reguiar’s Army Lady Liang, Mrs. ZHAI of Xunyang in the Five Dynasties
作者:
钟雪梅;  乔 洪*;  毛艺坛
四川师范大学 服装与设计艺术学院,四川 成都 610066
Author(s):
ZHONG Xuemei;  QIAO Hong*;  MAO Yitan
Fashion and Art Design Institute,Sichuan Normal University,Chengdu 610066,China
分类号:
TS 186.2
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
基于莫高窟和榆林窟等遗迹中的供养人壁画,结合凉国夫人浔阳翟氏的人物背景,通过文献、图像资料和考古实物相结合的方法,分析其裙襦、鞋履、饰品、面靥等服饰的特点。研究认为,凉国夫人浔阳翟氏的服饰在延续中原唐风的基础上,受到了周边少数民族的影响,代表了五代西北敦煌贵族妇女形象,是时代与多元文化融合的典型例证。
Abstract:
According to the patron mural in Mogao Grottoes and Yulin Grottoes and other relics, combined with the character background of the reguiar’s army Lady Liang, Mrs. ZHAI of Xunyang, through the method of combining literature, images and archaeological objects, the paper analyzed the characteristics of costumes, such as skirt, shoes, ornaments, face and other costumes. According to the research, the costume has been influenced by the surrounding ethnic minorities on the basis of the continuation of the Tang style in the central plain of China, and represented the image in the Five Dynasties of noble women in Dunhuang in northwest China, which was a typical example of the integration of times and multiculturalism.

参考文献/References:

[1] 竺小恩.敦煌服饰文化研究[M].杭州:浙江大学出版社,2011.
[2] 陈菊霞.归义军节度使夫人翟氏生平事迹考[J].敦煌研究,2013(2):84-92.
CHEN Juxia.Lady Zhai,wife of the governor of return-to-allegiance army[J].Dunhuang Research,2013(2):84-92.(in Chinese)
[3] 杜海.敦煌文书中的“国太”夫人考[J].敦煌学辑刊,2017(3):40- 45.
DU Hai.Study on the "guotai" lady in Dunhuang[J].Journal of Dunhuang Studies,2017(3):40- 45.(in Chinese)
[4] 邹清泉.敦煌石窟曹元忠与浔阳翟氏画像研究[J].美术学报,2019:5-16.
ZOU Qingquan. Study on the portraits of CAO Yuanzhong and Xunyang ZHAI in Dunhuang Grottoes[J].Art Journal,2019:5-16.(in Chinese)
[5] 段文杰.佛在敦煌[M].上海:中华书局,2018.
[6] 高春明.中国服饰名物考[M].上海:上海文化出版社,2001.
[7] 周汛,高春明.中国历代妇女妆饰[M].上海:学林出版社,1997.
[8] 包铭新,李薨,沈雁.中国北方少数民族服饰研究:回鹘卷[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2013.
[9] 赵贞.敦煌文献与唐代社会文化研究[M].北京:北京师范大学出版社,2017.
[10] 赵贞.归义军曹氏时期的鸟形押研究[J].敦煌学辑刊,2008(2):10-28.
ZHAO Zhen.Study on the bird-shaped symbols during the the governor of return-to-allegiance army time[J].Journal of Dunhuang Studies,2008(2):10-28.(in Chinese)
[11] 陈菊霞.敦煌翟氏郡望和族源探新[J].敦煌研究,2004(2):66-71.
CHEN Juxia.A new probe into the origin of the Lady ZHAI in Dunhuang[J].Dunhuang Research,2004(2):66-71.(in Chinese)
[12] 陈菊霞.敦煌翟氏研究[M].北京:民族出版社,2012.
[13] 敦煌研究院.敦煌石窟艺术全集:服饰画卷[M].上海:同济大学出版社,2016.
[14] 谭蝉雪.中世纪服饰[M].上海:华东师范大学出版社,2016.
(责任编辑:卢 杰)

更新日期/Last Update: 2020-10-30