[1]王志成,崔荣荣*.从“新中装”设计看传统服饰结构基因的提取与持续[J].服装学报,2021,6(03):271-277.
 WANG Zhicheng,CUI Rongrong*.Structure Model Extraction of the Traditional Clothing from the View of "New Chinese Clothing" Design and Its Sustainability[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2021,6(03):271-277.
点击复制

从“新中装”设计看传统服饰结构基因的提取与持续()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第6卷
期数:
2021年03期
页码:
271-277
栏目:
专题
出版日期:
2021-06-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Structure Model Extraction of the Traditional Clothing from the View of "New Chinese Clothing" Design and Its Sustainability
作者:
王志成1; 2;  崔荣荣*2; 3
1.江南大学 纺织科学与工程学院,江苏 无锡 214122; 2. 江南大学 教育部中华优秀传统文化传承基地,江苏 无锡 214122; 3. 江南大学 设计学院,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
WANG Zhicheng1; 2;  CUI Rongrong*2; 3
1. College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China; 2.Excellent Traditional Chinese Culture Heritage Base of the Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China; 3.School of Design, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122, China
分类号:
TS 941.11
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
结构是服饰的重要构成要素之一。以服饰结构为研究对象,首先立足墓葬出土、传世实物材料,对传统服饰中的平面、连身、立领、斜襟、对襟、开襟等经典的可持续结构基因进行提取; 其次,在设计学研究视角下,以2014年APEC领导人及其配偶服饰设计作品为案例,解读提交样衣的相关企业、设计师、院校在设计方案中对传统服饰结构基因的提取与重组、传承与创新,并重点从领型设计、门襟设计、袖型设计3大板块,揭示“新中装”中的“新结构”。通过历史与实践的对比研究,建构新时代中华传统服饰结构基因传承创新的可持续路径。
Abstract:
Structure is one of the important elements of clothing. This paper took the clothing structure as the research object. Firstly, based on the unearthed and handed down materials from tombs, it summarized and interpreted the classical structure models of traditional clothing, such as plane, conjoined body, vertical collar, slanted flap, double flap and open flap. Secondly, from the perspective of design studies, by taking the clothing design works of APEC leaders and their spouses in 2014 as cases, the study interpreted the extraction and recombination, inheritance and innovation of the traditional clothing structure gene from the submitted design works of designers, colleges and universities. Besides, the paper focused on the collar design, placket design, sleeve design three parts, revealing the "new structure" in the "new Chinese clothing", through the comparative study of history and practice. The study may construct the feasible path of inheritance and innovation of traditional Chinese clothing structure in the new era.

参考文献/References:

[1] 刘元风.新中装[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2020:6.
[2] 严勇,房宏俊,殷安妮.清宫服饰图典[M].北京:紫禁城出版社,2010:20.
[3] 高春明.中国历代服饰文物图典[M].上海:上海辞书出版社,2018:26.
[4] 山东博物馆,孔子博物馆.衣冠大成:明代服饰文化展[M].济南:山东美术出版社,2020:171.
[5] 刘元风.新中装[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2020:6.
[6] 宋雪,崔荣荣.基于“新中装”的传统服饰文化传承与创新[J].纺织导报,2015(7): 94.
SONG Xue, CUI Rongrong. Inheritance and innovation of traditional costume culture based on "new Chinese costume"[J]. China Textile Leader, 2015(7): 94.(in Chinese)
[7] 刘瑞璞.女装纸样设计原理与应用[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2017:280.
[8] 施文帆,吴志明.基于服饰文化传承的“新中装”设计创新[J].服装学报,2018,3(6):525.
SHI Wenfan, WU Zhiming. Design innovation of "new Chinese clothing" based on clothing culture inheritance[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2018,3(6): 525.(in Chinese)
[9] 王志成,崔荣荣,梁惠娥.从“家长本位”到“儿童本位”:论民国儿童着装的成人化现象及设计介入[J].丝绸,2020,57(12):118.
WANG Zhicheng, CUI Rongrong, LIANG Hui’e. From "parent standard" to "child standard": on the adult phenomenon and design intervention of children’s dress in the Republic of China[J]. Journal of Silk, 2020,57(12): 118.(in Chinese)
[10] 三吉满智子.服装造型学·理论篇[M].郑嵘,译.北京:中国纺织出版社,2006:19.
(责任编辑:卢 杰)

相似文献/References:

[1]陈秀免.福建畲族传统服饰田野调查现状及发展趋势[J].服装学报,2017,2(04):351.
 CHEN Xiumian.Investigation Situation and Development Trend of SHE Minority Traditional Dress in Fujian[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2017,2(03):351.
[2]张守用,梁惠娥*,信玉峰.福建畲族传统服饰数字化保护形式[J].服装学报,2019,4(02):117.
 ZHANG Shouyong,LIANG Huie*,XIN Yufeng.Digital Protection Forms for She Traditional Clothing in Fujian Province[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(03):117.
[3]夏 添,王鸿博*,崔荣荣.先秦至汉代荆楚服饰文化研究现状与趋势[J].服装学报,2019,4(03):255.
 XIA Tian,WANG Hongbo*,CUI Rongrong.Research Status and Trend of the Culture of Ancient Jingchu Costume from Pre-Qin to the Han Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(03):255.
[4]黄秀丽.河源地区客家“墩头蓝”传统服饰结构特点与工艺分析[J].服装学报,2019,4(04):319.
 HUANG Xiuli.Study on the Structure and Craftsmanship of Hakka "Duntou Lan" Traditional Costumes in Heyuan Area[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(03):319.
[5]张守用,梁惠娥*.博物馆视角下畲族传统服饰的活态传[J].服装学报,2020,5(06):527.
 ZHANG Shouyong,LIANG Huie*.Living Inheritance of She Traditional Costume from the Perspective of Museum[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(03):527.

更新日期/Last Update: 2021-06-30