[1]肖舒娱,孔凡栋,陈栩.闽东畲族花边衫“线”的变迁与程式[J].服装学报,2020,5(05):415-420.
　XIAO Shuyu,KONG Fandong*,CHEN Xu.Changes and Forms of the "Line" of She Nationality Lace Shirts in East Fujian[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(05):415-420.
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闽东畲族花边衫“线”的变迁与程式()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第5卷
期数:
2020年05期
页码:
415-420
栏目:
服装艺术设计
出版日期:
2020-10-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Changes and Forms of the "Line" of She Nationality Lace Shirts in East Fujian
作者:
肖舒娱; 孔凡栋; 陈栩
1.青岛大学 纺织服装学院,山东 青岛 266071; 2.浙江理工大学 国际教育学院,浙江 杭州 310018; 3.闽江学院,福建省服装创意设计中心,福建 福州 350108
Author(s):
XIAO Shuyu1;  KONG Fandong*1; 2;  CHEN Xu3
1.College of Textiles and Clothing, Qingdao University, Qingdao 266071, China; 2.School of International Education, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China; 3.Fujian Provincial Clothing Creative Design Center, Minjiang University, Fuzhou 350108, China
分类号:
TS 941.1
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
采用田野调查、文献研究的方法,探究“线”在畲族花边衫中的表达。在对闽东畲族花边衫不同时期外形线的变迁和同时期四式花边衫结构线比较的基础上,总结畲族花边衫外形线变迁与结构线程式化的原因。分析表明:花边衫外形线变迁主要受到政治力量的抑与扬、主流文化的模仿与革新、衣衫功能的实用与饰用等影响; 花边衫结构线程式化的成因包括共性因素和个性因素,共性因素为宗族信仰的延续和经济资源的制约,个性因素主要是地域文明的分化。通过全面深入了解畲族花边衫的多样性,使传统畲族服饰中的“线”更好地运用在当代畲族服饰设计中。
Abstract:
By means of field research and literature research, this paper explored the expression of "line" in She lace shirts. On the basis of comparing the changes of the outlines in different periods and the structural lines of the four types in the same period, the reasons for the change of the outlines were summarized: the suppression and promotion of political power, the imitation and innovation of mainstream culture, and the utility and decoration of dress function. The causes for the stylization included the common factors and the individual factors. The common factors were the continuation of clan belief and the restriction of economy and resources. The individual factors were the differentiation of regional civilization. Thus, we can have a more comprehensive and in-depth understanding and make good use of the "lines" in the contem-porary She nationality’s clothing design.

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(责任编辑:卢 杰)

相似文献/References:

[1]陈 栩.福建畲族服饰文化传承及发展[J].服装学报,2017,2(01):55.
　CHEN Xu.Dress Culture Inheritance and Development of SHE Minority in Fujian Province[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2017,2(05):55.

更新日期/Last Update: 2020-08-30