[1]张 玲.服装社会学研究的系谱与课题[J].服装学报,2019,4(05):440-446.
 ZHANG Ling.Review about Genealogy of Social Theory on Dress and Fashion[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(05):440-446.
点击复制

服装社会学研究的系谱与课题()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第4卷
期数:
2019年05期
页码:
440-446
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2019-10-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Review about Genealogy of Social Theory on Dress and Fashion
作者:
张 玲
日本爱知大学 中国学研究中心,日本 名古屋 461-8641
Author(s):
ZHANG Ling
International Center for Chinese Studies, Aichi University of Japan, Nagoya 461-8641,Japan
分类号:
TS 941.71
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
回顾与总结了社会学中有关服装与时尚的理论系谱,并对这些理论的运用以及其在中国的相关课题进行了分析考察。结果表明,对服装的社会学考察方法现阶段主要分为两类:①把服装及时尚与人类的欲望和意识结合起来,对服装与时尚的形成机制抑或是相关社会意识的变迁进行追问; ②通过对服装杂志以及读者群的变化进行时间系列的实证分析来解剖社会文化的变容。在这两种方法中,服装与消费、服装与女性又是最常见的两大主题。
Abstract:
This paper reviewed the genealogy of social theory on dress and fashion and clarified some unresolved issues which should be noticed in modern China.This paper suggests that there are two main methods in Fashion-Sociology. First, Elucidate the mechanism of fashion and prevalence from human desires and consciousness. Second, clarified the change of social culture through the time series analysis on the magzines. Among the two methods, clothing and consumption, clothing and women are the two most common themes.

参考文献/References:

[1] 周星.乡土生活的逻辑[M].北京:北京大学出版社,2011:269.
[2] BALZAC H. L’intégrale(traité de la vie élégance, la comédie humaine)[M].Paris:Le Seuil,1966:579.
[3] ボードレール.ボードレール批評2[M].阿部良雄,訳.东京:築摩書房,1999.
[4] タルド.模倣の法則[M].池田祥英·村澤真保呂,訳.东京:筑摩書房,1998.
[5] ジンメル.ジンメル著作集7:文化の哲学[M].円子修平·大久保健治,訳.东京:白水社,1999.
[6] ヴェブレン.有閑階級の理論[M].高哲男,訳.东京:筑摩書房,1998.
[7] KING C W. Fashion adoption: a rebuttal to the trickle down theory[M].Chicago: American Marketing Association, 1963.
[8] FIELD G A. The status float phenomenon: the upward diffusion of innovation[J].Journal of Business Horizons, 1970, 13(4): 45-52.
[9] BLUMBERG P. The decline and fall of the status symbol: some thoughts on status in a post-indusutrial society[J]. Journal of Social Problem,1974,21(4):480- 498.
[10] ジャン·ボードリヤール.消費社会の神話と構造[M].今村仁司·塚原史,訳.东京:紀伊國屋書店,1995.
[11] BLUMER H G. Fashion: from class differentiation to collective selection[J]. Journal of Sociological Quarterly, 1969, 10(3): 275-291.
[12] 乔安妮·恩特韦斯特尔.时髦的身体:时尚,衣着和现代社会理论[M].郜元宝,译.柳州:广西师范大学出版社,2005:19.
[13] ミシェル·フーコー.監獄の誕生[M].田村俶,译.东京:新潮社,1977.
[14] WILSON E. Fashion and the postmodern body[M]//ASH J,WILSON E.Chic Thrills:A Fashion Reader.California:Pardora and University of California Press,1993.
[15] LAVER J.Costume and fashinon a concise history[M]. London: Thames and Hudson,2002.
[16] ホランダー.性とスーツ——現代衣服が形づくられるまで[M].中野香織,訳.东京:白水社,1997.
[17] STEELE V.Fashion and eroticism: ideals of feminine beauty from the victorian era to the jazz age[M].Oxford: Oxford University Press,1985.
[18] STEELE V.Paris fashion: a culturral history[M].Oxford: Oxford University Press,1988.
[19] RABINE L W.A woman’s two bodies: fashion magazines, consumerism, and feminism[M].New Jersey: Rutgers University Press,1994.
[20] 井上雅人.日本における『ファッション誌』生成の歴史化―『装苑』から『アンアン』まで/『ルシャルマン』から『若い女性』まで」[J].都市文化研究,2010(12):125-138.
[21] 佐々木孝侍.ファッション誌と痩身志向: モデルに対する憧憬と親近感及び読書傾向の視座からの実証的検討[J].マス·コミュニケーション研究, 2012,80(1): 231-248.
[22] 東野充成.ファッション誌の受容と青少年のアイデンティティ構成[J].飛梅論集,2003(3): 31-49.
[23] 渡辺明日香·城一夫.ファッションを伝播させる雑誌メディアの変容:1990年代以降のファッション誌とファッションの関係を中心に[J].デザイン理論, 2007,50(5): 123-138.
[24] ロ.ラン·バルト.モードの体系─その言語表現による記号学的分析[M].佐藤信夫,訳.東京:みすず書房,1998.
[25] アクロス編集室.ストリートファッションー若者スタイルの50年史[M].東京:株式会社PARCO,2002.
[26] 渡辺明日香·城.路上観測学の系譜ストリート観測の歴史と変遷[J].デザイン理論,2007,51(11): 73-87.(责任编辑:卢 杰)

相似文献/References:

[1]梁惠娥,沈天琦.地域性服饰色彩的研究现状与发展趋势[J].服装学报,2016,1(01):90.
 LIANG Huie,SHEN Tianqi.Current Situation and Future Development Trend of Regional Clothing Color[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2016,1(05):90.
[2]霍 康,张 毅.传统印染技艺在现代纺织品设计中的审美价值[J].服装学报,2016,1(04):410.
 HUO Kang,ZHANG Yi.Aesthetic Value of Traditional Dying Techniques in Modern Textile Design[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2016,1(05):410.
[3]张 琼.智能化视幻图案在服装设计中的应用[J].服装学报,2016,1(04):392.
 ZHANG Qiong.Application of Intelligent Design of Optical Illusions in Fashion Design[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2016,1(05):392.
[4]张旖旎,李 敏*.服装楼中店消费的影响因素[J].服装学报,2017,2(03):262.
 ZHANG Yini,LI Min*.Factors Affecting the Consumption in Fashion Uppershops[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2017,2(05):262.
[5]许栋樑.基于羊毛毡工艺的服装面料创意设计[J].服装学报,2018,3(03):230.
 XU Dongliang.Clothing Creative Design of Apparel Fabric Based on Baize Process[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2018,3(05):230.
[6]随婷婷,陈建伟*.基于分享经济的服装产业经营模式及效用影响[J].服装学报,2018,3(05):466.
 SUI Tingting,CHEN Jianwei*.Analysis on the Business Mode of Apparel Industry and Utility Effect Based on Sharing Economy[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2018,3(05):466.
[7]刘睿智,赵守香*,张 铎.服装物流中单品二维码设计实施方案[J].服装学报,2019,4(01):89.
 LIU Ruizhi,ZHAO Shouxiang*,ZHANG Duo.Design and Implementation of Single Product Two-Dimensional Code in Garment Logistics[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(05):89.
[8]尹 喆,宁艳群,何宇雯,等.基于Python的服装人体第7颈椎点高度预测[J].服装学报,2020,5(03):206.
 YIN Zhe,NING Yanqun,HE Yuwen,et al.Height Prediction of the Seventh Cervical Vertebrae Point in Garments Based on Python[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(05):206.
[9]肖宇强,戴 端.人工智能时代下的时尚审美与身体之维[J].服装学报,2020,5(03):228.
 XIAO Yuqiang,DAI Duan.Fashion Aesthetics and Body Dimensions in the Age of Artificial Intelligence[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(05):228.
[10]黄 宇,刘 晶*.基于感知价值理论的服装以旧换新促销策略[J].服装学报,2021,6(02):182.
 HUANG Yu,LIU Jing*.Clothing Replacement Sales Promotion Based on the Theory of Perceived Value[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2021,6(05):182.

更新日期/Last Update: 2019-10-31