[1]张丹妮,薛 元*,金淑兰,等.基于绞纱段染的雪尼尔纱段彩花型调控机理及工艺设计[J].服装学报,2026,11(02):95-104.
　ZHANG Danni,XUE Yuan*,JIN Shulan,et al.Pattern Regulation Mechanism and Process Design of Segment-Colored Chenille Yarn Based on Skein Segment Dyeing[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2026,11(02):95-104.
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基于绞纱段染的雪尼尔纱段彩花型调控机理及工艺设计()

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第11卷
期数:
2026年02期
页码:
95-104
栏目:
服装材料
出版日期:
2026-05-01

文章信息/Info

Title:
Pattern Regulation Mechanism and Process Design of Segment-Colored Chenille Yarn Based on Skein Segment Dyeing
作者:
张丹妮1;  薛 元*1;  金淑兰2;  柳群豪2;  罗 军2
1.江南大学 纺织科学与工程学院,江苏 无锡 214122; 2.金华洁灵家居用品有限公司,浙江 金华 321037
Author(s):
ZHANG Danni1;  XUE Yuan*1;  JIN Shulan2;  LIU Qunhao2;  LUO Jun2
1. College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China; 2. Jinhua Jieling House-wares Co.,Ltd.,Jinhua 321037,China
分类号:
TS 941.491
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
为提高雪尼尔纱段彩花型设计的精准性与多样性,基于段染绞纱—段染纱—段彩雪尼尔纱的工艺流程,提出绞纱段染花型与雪尼尔纱段彩花型的双向转换模型及调控方法。结合绞纱段染技术,通过调整绞纱分段数、色段长度及配色方案,设计出8种不同配色的段染纱,并纺制出对应的段彩雪尼尔纱,测试其线密度、力学性能和捻度。结果表明:所得雪尼尔纱的密度偏差率为5.98%,平均断裂强力为5 091.4 cN,捻度稳定性变异系数为5.02%,均满足优等品标准。所构建的雪尼尔纱段彩花型调控机理贯通了绞纱段染工艺与段彩雪尼尔纱成纱工艺的知识链,既为绞纱段染花型与雪尼尔纱段彩花型的相互转换提供理论基础,也为段彩雪尼尔纱的花型设计及批量化生产提供技术支持。
Abstract:
To improve the precision and diversity of segment-colored pattern design for chenille yarn, based on the process flow of skein segment dyeing, segment-dyed yarn, and segment-colored chenille yarn, this study proposed a bidirectional conversion model and control method between skein segment dyeing patterns and segment-colored chenille yarn patterns. By combining skein segment dyeing technology and adjusting the number of skein segments, the length of color segments, and color schemes, this study designed eight types of segment-dyed yarns with different color combinations and spun the corresponding segment-colored chenille yarns, testing their linear density, mechanical properties, and twist. The results show that the obtained chenille yarn achieves a density deviation rate of 5.98%, an average breaking strength of 5 091.4 cN, and a twist stability variation coefficient of 5.02%, all meeting the standards for high-quality products. The established control mechanism for segment-colored chenille yarn patterns bridges the knowledge chain between the skein segment dyeing process and the segment-colored chenille yarn spinning process, providing both a theoretical basis for the mutual conversion between skein segment dyeing patterns and segment-colored chenille yarn patterns and technical support for the pattern design and batch production of segment-colored chenille yarn.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2026-04-30