[1]李涵棋,胡霄睿*.宋代暗花丝织品的视觉艺术特征及其成因探析[J].服装学报,2026,11(01):85-96.
　LI Hanqi,HU Xiaorui*.Analysis of the Visual Artistic Characteristics and Causes of Damask Silk Fabrics in the Song Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2026,11(01):85-96.
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宋代暗花丝织品的视觉艺术特征及其成因探析()

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第11卷
期数:
2026年01期
页码:
85-96
栏目:
服装设计
出版日期:
2026-02-28

文章信息/Info

Title:
Analysis of the Visual Artistic Characteristics and Causes of Damask Silk Fabrics in the Song Dynasty
作者:
李涵棋;  胡霄睿*
江南大学 设计学院,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
LI Hanqi;  HU Xiaorui*
School of Design, Jiangnan University, Wuxi 214122,China
分类号:
K 244; J 523.5
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
宋代暗花丝织品作为中国古代经纬同色的单层提花丝织品的典型代表,其独特的视觉艺术特征与制作工艺具有重要的学术研究价值。以考古出土的宋代暗花丝织实物为研究样本,结合文献典籍与历史图像资料,从织物组织结构、色彩纹理表现及图案构图布局3个方面分析其视觉艺术特征。研究发现,宋代暗花丝织品以花地异色的巧妙处理、虚实结合的层次表现与自然均衡的构图法则,结合对植物纹样的独特诠释,形成了独具特色的设计审美范式。在技术层面,这种艺术效果的实现得益于宋代制丝工艺的精进、花地组织结构的差异化设计以及罗织机等织造技术的突破性发展。从文化视角来看,暗花丝织品在宋代的广泛流行,既反映了理学思想影响下儒雅化生活方式的形成,又体现了宋代社会崇尚简约内敛的审美取向,同时满足了不同社会阶层对服饰实用性的多元需求。
Abstract:
The dark-patterned silk fabrics of the Song Dynasty, as a typical representative of single-layer jacquard silk fabrics with the same color of warp and weft in ancient China, have significant academic research value due to their unique visual art features and manufacturing techniques.This paper takes the physical objects of dark-patterned silk weaving unearthed by archaeology in the Song Dynasty as the research samples, combines literature and classics, historical image materials, and analyzes its visual art characteristics from three aspects: fabric tissue structure, color and texture expression, and pattern composition and layout. Research has found that the dark-patterned silk fabrics of the Song Dynasty formed a unique design aesthetic paradigm through the ingenious treatment of different colors of flowers and the ground, the layering expression of the combination of reality and illusion, the composition rule of natural balance and the unique insights into plant patterns. On the technical level, the realization of this artistic effect is attributed to the improvement of silk-making techniques in the Song Dynasty, the differentiated design of the pattern structure, and the breakthrough deve-lopment of weaving techniques such as the loom.From a cultural perspective, the wide popularity of dark-patterned silk fabrics in the Song Dynasty not only reflected the formation of a refined lifestyle under the influence of Neo-Confucianism, but also demonstrated the aesthetic orientation of the Song society that advocated simplicity and restraint. At the same time, it met the diverse demands of different social strata for the practicality of clothing.

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(责任编辑:卢 杰)

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更新日期/Last Update: 2026-02-28