参考文献/References:
[1] 俞素青.我国女服之沿革[N].申报,1919-09-24(002).
[2] 季学源,竺小恩,冯盈之.旗袍文化与时尚设计[M].浙江:浙江大学出版社,2024.
[3] 刘云华. 红帮裁缝研究[D]. 苏州: 苏州大学, 2008: 24.
[4] 罗静,阮诺男,余正龙.民国海派旗袍的裁剪法与造物观[J].丝绸,2024,61(6):31-39.
LUO Jing,RUAN Nuonan,YU Zhenglong.The cutting method and creation view of traditional Shanghai style cheongsams [J]. Journal of Silk, 2024,61(6):31-39.(in Chinese)
[5] 崔荣荣. 中华服饰文化研究述评及其新时代价值[J]. 服装学报, 2021, 6(1): 53-59.
CUI Rongrong. Review of the study of Chinese costume culture and its value in the new era[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2021, 6(1): 53-59.(in Chinese)
[6] 王志成, 崔荣荣. 从“新中装” 设计看传统服饰结构基因的提取与持续[J]. 服装学报, 2021, 6(3): 271-277.
WANG Zhicheng, CUI Rongrong. Structure model extraction of the traditional clothing from the view of "new Chinese clothing" design and its sustainability[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2021, 6(3): 271-277.(in Chinese)
[7] 佚名.服制研究会成立[N].神州日报,1937-05-14(005).
[8] 姚云鹤, 张鑫, 李鑫娟, 等. 中西方传统异形鞋及其所表征的审美向度与文化差异[J]. 皮革科学与工程, 2022, 32(5): 63- 67.
YAO Yunhe, ZHANG Xin, LI Xinjuan, et al. Chinese and western traditional special-shaped shoes and their differences in aesthetic dimension and cultural concepts[J]. Leather Science and Engineering, 2022, 32(5): 63- 67.(in Chinese)
[9] 俞跃, 赵明. 中国传统旗袍工艺与造型的关联性探析[J]. 丝绸, 2013, 50(5): 23-27.
YU Yue, ZHAO Ming. Relevance between craft and shape of traditional Chinese cheongsam[J].Journal of Silk, 2013, 50(5): 23-27.(in Chinese)
[10] 王玮, 宋伟. 设计观念的现代性: 20世纪30年代中国对西方现代设计观念的译介与传播——以《生产工艺》为考察对象[J]. 艺术探索, 2022, 36(1): 54- 66.
WANG Wei, SONG Wei. Modernity of design concepts: translation, introduction, and dissemination of western modern design concepts in China in the 1930s—with special attention to production technology[J]. Arts Exploration, 2022, 36(1): 54- 66.(in Chinese)
[11] 杨雪, 陈诗莹. 民国旗袍裁制之量身采寸法[J]. 服装学报, 2023, 8(5): 377-383.
YANG Xue, CHEN Shiying. Measuring method of cheongsam in the Republic of China[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2023, 8(5): 377-383.(in Chinese)
[12] 严祖忻,宣元锦.家庭问题:衣的制法(五):旗袍[J].机联会刊,1937,166:19-21.
YAN Zuxin, Xuan Yuanjin. Family matters: how to make clothing(part five): the cheongsam []. Journal of the Textile Association, 1937, 166: 19-21.(in Chinese)
[13] 景华函授学院.裁剪典范[M]上海:景华函授学院裁剪系普通科,1951:6-8.
[14] 严黎东.裁剪手册[M]上海:上海新科学书店,1952:4-5.
[15] 傅英飞.新法裁剪(下册)[M]北京:首都出版社,1954:2-3.
[16] 刘云华.红帮裁缝研究[D].苏州:苏州大学,2008.
[17] 崔荣荣, 王志成. 旗袍文化与时尚设计[M]. 北京: 科学出版社, 2024: 50.
[18] 杨雪. 民国旗袍工艺之美的研究——从无省到有省的曲线革命[D]. 北京: 北京服装学院, 2017: 24.
[19] 佚名.女便服(拉襟衫)裁剪图[M].广州:广州市服装工业公司研究所,1969:40- 41.
[20] 佚名.中国妇女的虔诚:遵循远古的礼仪[J].伦敦新闻画报,1937(10):601.
Anon. The devotion of chinese women: following ancient rituals[J]. The Illustrated London News, 1937(10): 601.(in Chinese)
[21] 佚名.在中日战争中发生战争惨剧的场景[J].伦敦新闻画报,1937(9):381.
Anon. Scenes of tragedy during the sino-Japanese war [J]. The Illustrated London News, 1937(9): 381.
[22] 青岛市服装研究所.服装裁剪[M].济南:山东科学技术出版社,1982:175-177.
[23] 严宜舒, 周金云, 姜绶祥. 基于数智立体可变针织物的服装设计方法[J]. 服装学报, 2024, 9(6): 492- 499.
YAN Yishu, ZHOU Jinyun, JIANG Shouxiang. Garment design method based on digital intelligent three-dimensional stretchable knit fabrics[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2024, 9(6): 492- 499.(in Chinese)
[24] 刘伟, 张竞琼. 近代衣袋的造型及演变[J]. 服装学报, 2024, 9(1): 18-26.
LIU Wei, ZHANG Jingqiong. Plastic art and transmutation of modern garment pockets[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2024, 9(1): 18-26.(in Chinese)
[25] 何蕊, 简玉. 符号学视域下家具设计中的空白与意境构建研究[J]. 家具与室内装饰, 2023,30(5):1- 4.
HE Rui, JIAN Yu. Construction of artistic mood through blank leaving in furniture design from the perspective of semiotics[J]. Furniture and Interior Design, 2023,30(5): 1- 4.(in Chinese)
[26] 张金滨. 衣袖空间造型的设计原理剖析及创新应用[J]. 服装学报, 2023, 8(5): 441- 450.
ZHANG Jinbin. Design principle analysis and innovative application of sleeve space modeling[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2023, 8(5): 441- 450.(in Chinese)(责任编辑:卢 杰)