[1]苏文灏,张 玲*.明代庶民婚礼服中的“假用”与“盛服”[J].服装学报,2025,10(02):152-158.
　SU Wenhao,ZHANG Ling*."Borrowed Usage" and "Ceremonial Dress" in Commoners’ Wedding Clothing of Ming Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2025,10(02):152-158.
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明代庶民婚礼服中的“假用”与“盛服”()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第10卷
期数:
2025年02期
页码:
152-158
栏目:
服饰文化
出版日期:
2025-05-01

文章信息/Info

Title:
"Borrowed Usage" and "Ceremonial Dress" in Commoners’ Wedding Clothing of Ming Dynasty
作者:
苏文灏;  张 玲*
中国传媒大学 戏剧影视学院,北京 100024
Author(s):
SU Wenhao;  ZHANG Ling*
School of Theater,Film and Television,Communication University of China,Beijing 100024,China
分类号:
J 523
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
为厘清明代文献记载与后世认知在庶民婚礼服上的差异,通过考辨“假用”与“盛服”的语义内涵,结合历史维度、服饰制度、社会文化及婚俗传统,采用图像、文本、实物相结合的研究方法,试图还原明代庶人婚礼服的真实样态。研究表明:明代庶民与品官的婚礼服仍存在显著差异——所谓“假用”品官服饰仅适用于官员子孙婚礼,而明典规定的庶民婚服实为超越常服形制的“盛服”。有观点基于“吉日”特殊场景认定庶民婚礼可僭越服饰制度,这一结论存在理想化倾向。此外,清廷出于政治考量将明代“品级之服”下放为“汉民婚服”,是造成后世误读明代庶民婚礼服的另一关键因素。
Abstract:
To clarify the discrepancies between Ming Dynasty documentary records and later interpretations of commoners’ wedding attire, this study examined the semantic connotations of "borrowed usage" and "ceremonial dress" through historical, institutional, sociocultural, and ritual perspectives, employing an interdisciplinary methodology that integrates visual analysis, textual sources, and material artifacts. The research reveals that significant differences persisted between commoners’ and ranked officials’ wedding attire during the Ming period: the so-called "borrowed usage" of official garments was restricted to weddings of officials’ descendants, while the legally prescribed commoners’ wedding attire constituted "ceremonial dress" that transcended daily clothing norms. The assertion that commoners could temporarily violate sumptuary laws during "auspicious occasions" exhibits idealization tendencies. Furthermore, the Qing court’s politically motivated redesignation of Ming "rank-specific garments" as "Han wedding attire" emerged as a critical factor in later misinterpretations of Ming commoners’ wedding practices.

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(责任编辑:卢 杰)

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更新日期/Last Update: 2025-04-30