[1]李启正,贾淑琦,方婷玉,等.中国文化视角下丝巾之源变[J].服装学报,2025,10(02):140-147.
　LI Qizheng,JIA Shuqi,FANG Tingyu,et al.Origin of Silk Scarves in the Perspective of Chinese Culture[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2025,10(02):140-147.
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中国文化视角下丝巾之源变
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第10卷
期数:
2025年02期
页码:
140-147
栏目:
服饰文化
出版日期:
2025-04-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Origin of Silk Scarves in the Perspective of Chinese Culture
作者:
李启正1; 2;  贾淑琦2;  方婷玉2;  邓 涛3
1.浙江理工大学 浙江省丝绸文化与时尚研究中心,浙江 杭州 310018; 2.浙江理工大学 纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),浙江 杭州 310018; 3.杭州奥罗拉实业有限公司,浙江 杭州 310000
Author(s):
LI Qizheng1; 2;  JIA Shuqi2;  FANG Tingyu2;  DENG Tao3
1.Zhejiang Silk Culture and Fashion Research Center,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China; 2. College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Silk College),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China; 3. Hangzhou Aurora Industrial Co., Ltd.,Hangzhou 310000,China
分类号:
TS 146
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
针对当前普遍认为丝巾源自西方服饰体系的主流观点提出疑问。通过历史文献调查与文物图像分析,系统梳理丝巾在中国古代服饰中的不同形制与发展脉络,并从图案、材质、形状、色彩、工艺等设计视角分析丝巾设计要素之变。研究认为,中国古代“丝巾”形制最早可追溯至秦汉时期的“巾帔”; 在中国古代服饰体系中,虽无“丝巾”这一称谓的直接记载,但与丝巾形制相近的服饰品类众多,并形成了连续的服饰传承体系,先秦“巾帔”奠定实用基础,魏晋“帔帛”开启装饰功能,宋代“霞帔”实现制度规范,明清“云肩”和清朝“领巾”则将装饰与实用统一推向极致。现代丝巾作为女性颈间的时尚符号,其演变是中西方多元文化交融的产物,是不同历史时期社会风貌的重要符号。
Abstract:
This study challenges the prevailing view that scarves originated from Western clothing systems. Through historical document research and cultural relic image analysis, it systematically examines the various forms and evolutionary trajectory of silk scarves in ancient Chinese attire. The investigation analyzes design transformations in patterns, materials, shapes, colors, and craftsmanship. The research argues that the earliest form of Chinese "silk scarves" can be traced back to the "jinpei" of the Qin and Han dynasties. Although there are no direct records of the term "silk scarves" in ancient Chinese clothing systems, numerous similar garments formed a continuous sartorial heritage: The pre-Qin "jinpei" established practical foundations, the Wei-Jin "peibo"initiated decorative functions, the Song dynasty "xiapei" achieved institutional standardization, while the Ming-Qing "yunjian" and Qing Dynasty "lingjin" perfected the integration of decoration and utility. As a modern fashion symbol around women's necks, the evolution of silk scarves embodies multicultural integration between East and West, serving as significant semiotic representations of social characteristics across different historical periods.

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(责任编辑:卢 杰)

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更新日期/Last Update: 2025-04-30