[1]屈 萍,邵小龙.基于扎根理论构建明代赐服对朝鲜半岛服饰影响的模型[J].服装学报,2024,9(06):530-539.
 QU Ping,SHAO Xiaolong.Construction of an Influence Model of Ming Dynasty Granted Clothing on Korean Peninsula Attire Based on Grounded Theory[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2024,9(06):530-539.
点击复制

基于扎根理论构建明代赐服对朝鲜半岛服饰影响的模型()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第9卷
期数:
2024年06期
页码:
530-539
栏目:
服饰文化
出版日期:
2025-01-01

文章信息/Info

Title:
Construction of an Influence Model of Ming Dynasty Granted Clothing on Korean Peninsula Attire Based on Grounded Theory
作者:
屈 萍1;  邵小龙2
1.宁波大学 宁波大学昂热大学联合学院,浙江 宁波 315211; 2.宁波大学 潘天寿建筑与艺术设计学院,浙江 宁波 315211
Author(s):
QU Ping1;  SHAO Xiaolong2
1.Institut conjoint des universitésde Ningbo et d’Angers,Ningbo University, Ningbo 315211, China; 2.Pan Tianshou School of Architecture and Art Design,Ningbo University, Ningbo 315211, China
分类号:
J 022; TS 941.12
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
明代赐服制度与明朝安邦治国的战略相始终,并对藩属国服制产生深远影响。但以往学界对于明代中朝封贡关系研究存在中国主动寻求建立封贡关系并强加给朝鲜的认知误区。通过扎根理论对明代与朝鲜半岛之间赐服事件相关文本进行编码分析,探讨明代赐服对朝鲜半岛服饰影响的模型并剖析其运行机制。研究发现:明代与其他王朝对朝鲜半岛服饰的影响呈现联动关系。在此过程中,客观因素和主观因素分别起到催化和驱动作用,前提条件和实践路径则分别承担铺陈和落实角色,最终结果则体现了这一复杂系统的综合效应。明代赐服对朝鲜半岛服饰产生影响的本质是两国对儒家世界观等级关系的认同及两国现实利益交换和国力平衡的结果。
Abstract:
The Ming Dynasty’s granted clothing system was aligned with its national governance strategy and had a profound impact on the dress codes of tributary states. However, previous academic research on the Ming-Joseon tribute relationship has mistakenly assumed that China proactively sought to establish and impose this tribute relationship on Korea. By employing grounded theory to encode and analyze texts related to the granting of clothing between the Ming Dynasty and the Korean Peninsula, a model was constructed to analyze the influence of Ming-granted garments on Korean Peninsula attire, and its operational mechanism was discussed. The study found that the impact of the Ming Dynasty on Korean Peninsula attire exhibited an interconnected relationship with other dynasties. In this process, objective and subjective factors played catalytic and driving roles, while preconditions laid the groundwork, and practical paths facilitated implementation. The ultimate outcome reflected the comprehensive effects of this complex system. The essence of the Ming Dynasty’s influence on Korean Peninsula attire lay in the mutual recognition of Confucian worldview hierarchical relationships and the balance of real interests and power between the two nations.

参考文献/References:

[1] 马大正. 中国边疆经略史(中国边疆通史丛书)[M]. 郑州: 中州古籍出版社, 2003.
[2] 魏志江, 潘清. 十至十四世纪的中韩关系形态与东亚世界——兼评费正清的“华夷秩序” 论[J]. 南京社会科学, 2015(2): 138-144.
WEI Zhijiang, PAN Qing. On the relations between China and South Korea from the perspective of the east asian during the 10—14th century: with review on the China-centered international order by J. fairbank[J]. Nsnjing Journal of Social Sciences, 2015(2): 138-144.(in Chinese)
[3] 蒋玉秋, 赵丰. 一衣带水 异邦华服——从《明实录》朝鲜赐服看明朝与朝鲜服饰外交[J]. 南京艺术学院学报(美术与设计), 2015(3): 34-37, 201-202.
JIANG Yuqiu, ZHAO Feng. A research on costume diplomacy between Ming and joseon Dynasty based Ming Shi Lu[J]. Journal of Nanjing Arts Institute(Fine Arts and Design), 2015(3): 34-37, 201-202.(in Chinese)
[4] JIANG Y Q. Searching for disappeared Ming Dynasty costume in south Korea reflection on the creative application of intangible cultural heritage[J]. Asian Social Science, 2016, 12(5): 208.
[5] 竺小恩,葛晓弘.中国与东北亚服饰文化交流研究[M].杭州:浙江大学出版社,2015.
[6] 脱脱.宋史:卷153[M].北京:中华书局,1977.
[7] 刘慧慧, 刘瑜. 从赏赐琉球官生的服饰看明朝外交[J]. 服装学报, 2023, 8(1): 59-63.
LIU Huihui, LIU Yu. Diplomacy of the Ming Dynasty from the given costumes of ryukyu students[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2023, 8(1): 59-63.(in Chinese)
[8] 梁惠娥, 张华怡. 东北亚丝绸之路下的虾夷锦及其文化现象综述[J]. 服装学报, 2023, 8(2): 156-161.
LIANG Huie, ZHANG Huayi. Review of ezo-nishiki and its cultural phenomena under the silk road in northeast Asia[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2023, 8(2): 156-161.(in Chinese)
[9] 葛兆光.想象异域:读李朝朝鲜汉文燕行文献札记[M].北京:中华书局,2014.
[10] 逯杏花. 明朝对李氏朝鲜的冠服给赐[J]. 辽东学院学报(社会科学版), 2010, 12(5): 18-22.
LU Xinghua. Ritual costume reward of the Ming Dynasty of China to the Yi Dynasty of Korea[J]. Journal of Eastern Liaoning University(Social Sciences), 2010, 12(5): 18-22.(in Chinese)
[11](1882)[J].韩国,2009,59(10):68-84.
Ahn Aeyoung, Park Seongsil. A Study on the attire of crown prince Yi cheok in 1882: focusing on court robes[J]. Journal of Korea, 2009, 59(10): 68-84.(in Korean)
[12] [J]. 日本學硏究, 2012, 35: 121-143.
Heo Eunjoo. The institution of court attire in east asia and the consciousness of self and mutual recognition in the early modern east asian context-civilization theory of Joseon and civilization autonomy theory of Japan[J], Journal of Japan Studies, 2012, 35: 121-143.(in Korean)
[13].17德川日本華夷[J]..2002,4:277-295.
Park Honggyu. The issue of Huayi in 17th century Tokugawa Japan: a comparative perspective with China and Korea[J]. Korean Political Science Review, 2002, 4:277-295.(in Korean)
[14] [J].,2008,11(28):39-75.
HAN HyungJu.A relationship between Chosn Dynasty and Ming Dynasty through the viewpoint of national rites in the 15th century[J].Journal of korean historical-forklife, 2008,11(28):39-75.(in Korean)
[15] [J]., 2013, 63(5):87-101.
Lee Jooyoung.Reexamination of the establishment and revision periods of court attire for civil officials in the hongmu reign of the Ming Dynasty[J], Journal of Costume,2013,63(5):87-101.(in Korean)
[16] 刘喜涛. 明代朝鲜赴京使臣的异国记忆与国家观认知[J]. 社会科学战线, 2019(3): 140-147.
LIU Xitao. Memory and national identity of Korean envoy to Ming China[J]. Social Science Front, 2019(3): 140-147.(in Chinese)
[17] 丁宁, 刘健西. 基于扎根理论的中国皮革制品品牌形象研究[J]. 皮革科学与工程, 2024, 34(1): 119-124.
DING Ning, LIU Jianxi. Research on the brand image of Chinese leather goods based on grounded theory[J]. Leather Science and Engineering, 2024, 34(1): 119-124.(in Chinese)
[18] 张帆, 朴尚哲, 史心傲. 朝鲜传统生活方式影响下的箱柜类家具特征探究[J]. 家具与室内装饰, 2023, 30(7): 1-5.
ZHANG Fan, PIAO Shangzhe, SHI Xin’ao. Research on the characteristics of cabinet furniture under the influence of Korean traditional lifestyle[J]. Furniture and Interior Design, 2023, 30(7): 1-5.(in Chinese)
[19] 陈尚胜. 中韩交流三千年[M]. 北京: 中华书局, 1997.
[20] 孙英春. 东北亚文化传统的同质性与“文化共同体” 远景[J]. 浙江学刊, 2009(4): 25-33.
SUN Yingchun. Homogeneity of cultural tradition in northeast asia and prospect of "cultural community"[J]. Zhejiang Academic Journal, 2009(4): 25-33.(in Chinese)
[21] 万明. 明代中国国际秩序的演绎[J]. 新疆师范大学学报(哲学社会科学版), 2016, 37(5): 51-59.
WAN Ming. Deduction in China’s international order during the Ming Dynasty[J]. Journal of Xinjiang Normal University(Edition of Philosophy and Social Sciences), 2016, 37(5): 51-59.(in Chinese)
[22] 叶泉宏. 明代前期中韩国交之研究:1368—1488[M]. 台北: 台湾商务印书馆, 1991.
[23] 林常薰.明 朝鮮 會同館交易[J]..2018,52:362-386.
LIN Changxun. The exchange between Ming China and Korea’s hwataek hall[J]. Jeonbuk History, 2018, 52:362-386.(in Korean)
[24] 高明士. 东亚文化圈的形成与发展——儒家思想篇[M]. 上海: 华东师范大学出版社, 2008.
[25] 孙卫国. 朝鲜王朝“小中华” 思想的核心理念及其历史演变[J]. 韩国研究论丛, 2014(2): 140-160.
SUN Weiguo. On the core ideas of Korean "little China" thought and its historical evolution[J]. Collected Papers for Korean Studies, 2014(2): 140-160.(in Chinese)
[26] 肖洋, 戚彬, 娄轲. 儒家思想主导下的14至19世纪朝鲜半岛家具装饰纹样设计与应用研究[J]. 家具与室内装饰, 2024, 31(3): 99-103.
XIAO Yang, QI Bin, LOU Ke. Research on the decorative pattern design and application of Korean Peninsula furniture in the 14th to 19th centuries under the guidance of Confucianism[J]. Furniture and Interior Design, 2024, 31(3): 99-103.(in Chinese)
[27] KELLEY L. Vietnam as a ’domain of manifest civility’(Van hien Chi bang)[J]. Journal of Southeast Asian Studies, 2003, 34(1): 63-76.
[28] 张佳. 衣冠与认同: 明初朝鲜半岛袭用“大明衣冠” 历程初探[J]. 史林, 2017(1): 96-107, 74, 220.
ZHANG Jia. Dress and identity: an inquiry into the adoption of the great Ming-styled dress in the Korean Peninsula in the early Ming Dynasty[J]. Historical Review, 2017(1): 96-107, 74, 220.(in Chinese)
[29] 周骅, 王晚霞. 论湖湘学派朝鲜传播的内在逻辑——以胡安国《春秋传》为中心[J]. 湖南大学学报(社会科学版), 2021, 35(5): 122-128.
ZHOU Hua, WANG Wanxia. The internal logic of huxiang school’s dissemination in the Korean Peninsula—take HU Anguo’s Chun-Qiu Zhuan as an example[J]. Journal of Hunan University(Social Sciences), 2021, 35(5): 122-128.(in Chinese)
[30] 葛兆光. 大明衣冠今何在[J]. 史学月刊, 2005(10): 41-48.
GE Zhaoguang. Where are the hats and clothes of Ming Dynasty nowadays[J]. Journal of Historical Science, 2005(10): 41-48.(in Chinese)
[31] 吴晗. 朝鲜李朝实录中的中国史料[M]. 北京: 中华书局, 1980.
[32] 马晓菲. 明朝对朝鲜半岛政权的赐服探析[J]. 求索, 2012(2): 235-238.
MA Xiaofei. An analysis of the Ming Dynasty’s obedience to the Korean Peninsula regime[J]. Seeker, 2012(2): 235-238.(in Chinese)
[33] 郑麟趾.高丽史[M].重庆:西南师范大学出版社,2014.
[34] 彭林. 中国礼学在古代朝鲜的播迁[M]. 北京: 北京大学出版社, 2005.
[35]徐文跃. 一衣带水 韩国传统服饰与织物[J]. 文明, 2019(6): 84-101, 6.
XU Wenyue. Traditional Korean costumes and textiles[J]. Civilization, 2019(6): 84-101, 6.(in Chinese)
[36] 姚云鹤, 张鑫, 李鑫娟, 等. 中西方传统异形鞋及其所表征的审美向度与文化差异[J]. 皮革科学与工程, 2022, 32(5): 63-67.
YAO Yunhe, ZHANG Xin, LI Xinjuan, et al. Chinese and western traditional special-shaped shoes and their differences in aesthetic dimension and cultural concepts[J]. Leather Science and Engineering, 2022, 32(5): 63-67.(in Chinese)
[37] 韩永愚. 朝鲜王朝仪轨[M]. 金宰民, 孟春玲,译.杭州: 浙江大学出版社, 2012.
[38] 大韩民国文化公报部编.韩国的民俗文化财服饰与信仰资料编[M].东京:岩崎美术出版社,1989.
[39] 撷芳主人.大明衣冠图志[M].北京:北京大学出版社,2016:505.
(责任编辑:卢 杰)

更新日期/Last Update: 1900-01-01