[1]张 嫣,邹 游*.贵州施洞苗族女子盛装上衣的模件化生产[J].服装学报,2024,9(02):177-182.
　ZHANG Yan,ZOU You*.Modular Production of Miao Women’s Attire Tops in Shidong Guizhou[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2024,9(02):177-182.
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贵州施洞苗族女子盛装上衣的模件化生产()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第9卷
期数:
2024年02期
页码:
177-182
栏目:
民族服装
出版日期:
2024-04-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Modular Production of Miao Women’s Attire Tops in Shidong Guizhou
作者:
张 嫣1;  邹 游*2
1.北京服装学院 美术学院,北京 100029; 2.北京服装学院 服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029
Author(s):
ZHANG Yan1;  ZOU You*2
1.Academy of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029, China; 2.School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China
分类号:
TS 941.742.8
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
采用雷德侯的模件理论方法,从思维、图式构成和批量生产3个角度,对苗族服饰中的模件化特征进行梳理和分析。研究得出,贵州施洞苗族女子盛装上衣在创造思维上具有关联性和互换性的特征; 在图式构成上分为一体式和分体式2种。其上衣的后领和前门襟堆绣图案具有对称性,前门襟织带具有秩序性,双肩和衣袖的刺绣图案具有身份性; 制作过程中,盛装上衣的剪纸技术、刺绣技术、染制技术和裁剪技术都可以通过模件化生产。研究表明,通过模件理论来理解传统苗族服饰,能够帮助找到其服饰支系传承延续的关键法则和创新路径。
Abstract:
This paper used the modular theory method of Lothar Ledderose to summarize and analyze the modular characte-ristics in Miao costume from three perspectives, including thinking, pattern composition and mass production. The results show that the attire tops of Miao women in Shidong Guizhou exhibit characteristics of correlation and interchangeability in creative thinking, and can be divided into two forms of one-piece and split in terms of pattern composition. The embroidered patterns on the back collar and front placket of the tops are symmetry, the woven straps on the front placket show certain rules, and the embroidered patterns on the shoulders and sleeves are with identity. During the production process, the paper cuttings technology, embroidery technology, dyeing technology and cutting technology of the attire tops can all be produced through modularization. The research indicates that understanding traditional Miao costume through the module theory can help us identify key principles and innovative paths for the inheritance and continuation of the costume lineage.

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(责任编辑:沈天琦)

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更新日期/Last Update: 2024-05-11