[1]陆苗苗,谢 静*.汉唐时期晕裥织物装饰演变与技艺发展[J].服装学报,2024,9(02):160-166.
 LU Miaomiao,XIE Jing*.Evolvement of Pattern Decoration and Technical Development of Halo Pleated Fabrics from Han to Tang Dynasties[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2024,9(02):160-166.
点击复制

汉唐时期晕裥织物装饰演变与技艺发展()
分享到:

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第9卷
期数:
2024年02期
页码:
160-166
栏目:
服饰文化
出版日期:
2024-04-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Evolvement of Pattern Decoration and Technical Development of Halo Pleated Fabrics from Han to Tang Dynasties
作者:
陆苗苗;  谢 静*
北京服装学院 美术学院,北京 100029
Author(s):
LU Miaomiao;  XIE Jing*
Academy of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China
分类号:
TS 941.2; J 522
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
晕裥纹样因其独有的色彩变化形式在丝绸之路沿线大量出现,并对中国传统织绣纹样产生了深远的影响。以汉唐时期织物中的晕裥纹样为研究对象,从纺织科学、艺术考古学等视角研究其艺术风格与审美特征的演变规律,并对“晕裥”名称的含义进行考证,进而从历时性的角度梳理织物中晕裥纹样装饰风格流变与技艺发展变化,探析织物晕裥纹样的本土化演绎历程。
Abstract:
Abstract:Halo pleat pattern appeared in large numbers along the Silk Road because of its unique color changes and had a profound influence on the traditional embroidery pattern in China. By taking the halo pleat patterns in the fabrics produced from Han to Tang Dynasties as the research object, this paper studied the evolution law of their artistic style and aesthetic characteristics from the aspects of textile science and technology, art archaeology, etc., and investigate the meaning of the name "halo pleat", so as to sorted out the style change and technical development of the halo pleat pattern decoration in fabrics from the diachronic perspective, and explored the localization process of the halo pleat patterns in fabrics.

参考文献/References:

[1] 王庄穆.中国丝绸辞典[M].北京:中国科学技术出版社,1996.
[2] 刘熙.释名[M].北京:商务印书馆,1939.
[3] 刘江涛.《释名》“晕,捲也”疏证[J].文学教育(上),2017(7):75-77.
LIU Jiangtao. The textual research of "Halo, Curl" in Shiming[J].Journal of Literary Education(Upper), 2017(7): 75-77.(in Chinese)
[4] 姚宽.西溪丛语[M].济南:山东人民出版社,2018.
[5] 白婧. 《说文》新附字“晕”的考释——兼论“晕”与相关字之间的关系[C]//刘川鄂.荆楚学术. 北京:北京理工大学出版社,2017.
[6] 张自烈,廖文英.正字通[M].北京:中国工人出版社,1996.
[7] 李土生.土生说字 :第17卷[M].北京:中央文献出版社,2009.
[8] 张玉书.康熙字典[M].北京:中华书局,1958.
[9] 新疆维吾尔自治区博物馆,新疆文物考古研究所.中国新疆山普拉:古代于阗文明的揭示与研究[M].乌鲁木齐:新疆人民出版社,2001.
[10] 于颖.新疆出土斜纹晕繝缂毛[J].吐鲁番学研究,2013(1):64-72.
YU Ying.The wool tapestry fabrics of twill and rainbow unearthed from Xinjiang[J].Turfanological Research,2013(1):64-72.(in Chinese)
[11] 阿迪力·阿布力孜.古代精绝人的衣冠服饰[N].中国民族报,2018-05-25(09).
[12] 孙大卫.中国新疆古代艺术宝典:6织物卷[M].乌鲁木齐:新疆人民出版社,2006.
[13] 贾应逸,陈元生,解玉林,等.新疆扎滚鲁克、山普拉墓群出土(西周至东汉)毛织品的鉴定[J].文物保护与考古科学,2008(1):18-23.
JIA Yingyi,CHEN Yuansheng,XIE Yulin,et al.The identification of wool textiles from Zagunluke and Shanpula tombs(from Western Zhou to Eastern Han)in Xinjiang[J].Sciences of Conservation and Archaeology,2008(1):18-23.(in Chinese)
[14] 赵丰.敦煌丝绸艺术全集:英藏卷[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2007.
[15] 田自秉,吴淑生.中国工艺美术史图录[M].上海:上海人民美术出版社,1994.
[16] 卢华语.唐代蚕桑丝绸研究[M].北京:首都示范大学出版社,1995.
[17] 吕思勉.吕著史学与史籍[M].长春:吉林人民出版社,2018.
[18] 朱虹.新疆博物馆藏唐变体宝相花纹云头锦鞋鉴赏[J].文物鉴定与鉴赏,2013(3):39- 41.
ZHU Hong. Appreciation of yuntou brocade shoes with precious flower patterns of Tang dynasty in Xinjiang museum[J].Identification and Appreciation to Cultural Relics,2013(3):39- 41.(in Chinese)
[19] 黄修忠.蜀锦的月华、雨丝晕裥锦技艺[J].四川丝绸,2007(4):50-53.
HUANG Xiuzhong.Yuehua and yusi brocade skills of Shu brocade[J].Sichuan Silk,2007(4):50-53.(in Chinese)
[20] 菅野真道.续日本纪[M].东京:岩波书店,1998.
[21] 许新国.飘舞在青海丝路上的华美[J].读者欣赏,2018(6):116-125.
XU Xinguo.The beauty of dancing on the silk road in Qinghai[J].Reader Appreciation,2018(6):116-125.(in Chinese)
[22] 朱桐莹.新疆出土汉唐染缬图案与工艺研究[J].浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报,2017(4):77-82.
ZHU Tongying. Study of resist dyeing patterns and craftworks during the Han and Tang Dynasties unearthed in Xinjiang[J]. Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology, 2017, 16(4): 77-82.(in Chinese)
[23] 赵丰.敦煌丝绸艺术全集:法藏卷[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2010.
[24] 樊锦诗,马世长.莫高窟发现的唐代丝织物及其它[J].文物,1972(12):55- 68.
FAN Jinshi, MA Shichang.Tang Dynasty silk fabrics and others found in Mogao Grottoes[J].Cultural Relics,1972(12):55- 68.(in Chinese)
[25] 大英博物馆.Dunhuang silk painting[EB/OL].(1919-01-01)[2023-12-15].https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/A_1919-0101-0-102.
[26] 大英博物馆.Dunhuang silk painting[EB/OL].(1919-01-01)[2023-12-15].https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/A_1919-0101-0-141.
[27] 赵声良.光与色的旋律——敦煌隋代壁画装饰色彩管窥[J].敦煌研究,2021(3):1-12.
ZHAO Shengliang.The melody of light and color——on the decorative colors in the Sui Dynasty murals of Dunhuang[J].Dunhuang Studies,2021(3):1-12.(in Chinese)
[28] 安徽博物院.锦绣西域新疆丝路文物精品展[EB/OL].(2021-11-30)[2024-01-18].https://file.ahm.cn:444/anhuimuseum/cms_topic_html/jxxy/zhongd.html.
[29] 佚名.唐人双童图[EB/OL].(2022-09-21)[2023-12-18].https://baike.baidu.com/pic/唐人双童图/22823739?fromModule=pic.
[30] 敦煌研究院数字敦煌:第220窟[EB/OL].(2016-05-01)[2023-12-18].https://www.e-dunhuang.com/cave/10.0001/0001.0001.0220.(责任编辑:张 雪)

相似文献/References:

[1]王林霞,柯宝珠*.基于局部编织的织物横向省道[J].服装学报,2022,7(03):223.
 WANG Linxia,KE Baozhu*.Research on Fabric Horizontal Dart Based on Local Knitting[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2022,7(02):223.

更新日期/Last Update: 2024-05-11