[1]刘 畅,刘瑞璞*.明官服“四幅制”营造的节俭礼法[J].服装学报,2023,8(03):189-195.
　LIU Chang,LIU Ruipu*.Economical Etiquette and Law Created by the "Four Pieces System"of Official Uniforms in Ming Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2023,8(03):189-195.
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明官服“四幅制”营造的节俭礼法()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第8卷
期数:
2023年03期
页码:
189-195
栏目:
服装工程
出版日期:
2023-06-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Economical Etiquette and Law Created by the "Four Pieces System"of Official Uniforms in Ming Dynasty
作者:
刘 畅;  刘瑞璞*
北京服装学院 服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029
Author(s):
LIU Chang;  LIU Ruipu*
Fashion Accessory Art and Engineering College,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,Chin
分类号:
TS 941.12; K 875.2
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
通过探究传承千年的节俭“幅制”官服营造法则,分析明官服整幅寡割的工艺,得出明官服所呈现的“四幅制”结构属于中华制衣系统的十字型平面结构,具有布幅决定结构的特点,体现出从惜物尚俭理念到天人合一精神境界的升华。采用实物与文献相结合的二重考据法,对明代官服样本进行系统研究,发现明官服以“四幅制”为结构框架,其中袖式是官服定制的基础,不同长短、方圆、宽窄的袖式是中国古代文官制度的物化结果。袖式结构中秦汉“交窬”裁剪技艺的发现,印证了明官服结构符合初于节俭、忠于礼法的造物逻辑和俭以养德的中华传统。
Abstract:
By exploring the production rules of economical official uniforms that have been passed down for thousands of years, the paper analyzed the technology of Ming official uniforms. It showed that the "four pieces system" structure of Ming official uniforms belonged to the cross shaped flat structure of the Chinese costume system, which had the characteristics of fabric determining structure, reflecting the sublimation from the concept of cherishing things and advocating thrift to the spiritual realm of harmony between heaven and man. This paper systematically studied the official uniforms specimens of Ming Dynasty by using the dual textual research method combining physical objects and literature. It was found that the structure of Ming Dynasty official uniforms was "four pieces system". And the sleeve type was the basis of official uniform customization, and different length, circumference, width and narrow sleeves were made as the materialized result of the civil service system in ancient China. The discovery of the cutting technology "jiaoyu" of Qin and Han Dynasties of the sleeve structure proved that the structure of Ming official uniforms conformed the creation logic of originating from frugality and loyal to etiquette and law,as well as the Chinese tradition of frugality to cultivate morality.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2023-06-30