[1]八团红青褂子的礼服标识及商品化演变.八团红青褂子的礼服标识及商品化演变[J].服装学报,2021,6(06):541-548.
　WANG Zhongjie.Costume Characteristics of the "Red and Blue Blouse with Eight Round Patterns" and Its Commercialization Process[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2021,6(06):541-548.
点击复制

八团红青褂子的礼服标识及商品化演变()
分享到：

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第6卷
期数:
2021年06期
页码:
541-548
栏目:
服装历史与文化
出版日期:
2021-12-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Costume Characteristics of the "Red and Blue Blouse with Eight Round Patterns" and Its Commercialization Process
作者:
八团红青褂子的礼服标识及商品化演变
王中杰1,2
Author(s):
WANG Zhongjie1; 2
1.College of Art and Design, Nanchang University, Nanchang 330031,China; 2.Jiangsu Lianfa Textile Co., Ltd., Haian 226601
分类号:
TS 941.12
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
1.南昌大学 艺术与设计学院,江西 南昌 330031; 2.江苏联发纺织股份有限公司,江苏 海安 226601
Abstract:
In the background of social transformation the red and blue blouse with eight round patterns has produced the blonding and transformation of clothing under the influence of foreign culture. It is one of the representative forms of from the perspective of cultural studies, based on historical pictures from historical annals such as the National Museum of China as research materials, this paper illustrated two dressing situations of red and blue blouse with eight round patterns as the wedding dress and the formal dress. This paper summarizes the commercialization forms of the red and blue blouse with eight round patterns from four aspects: production and sales, publicity value and trade channels. Lastly, this paper further investigated the relationship between the dress logo and commercialization and the evolution progress of the red and blue blouse with eight round patterns in the model of the cultural loop, in order to broaden the ideas for moderm dress design.

参考文献/References:

[1] 金受申. 北京通:北京婚俗(下):满汉有分城乡异趣,一满人婚俗[J].立言画刊,1939(54):15-16.
JIN Shoushen. Beijing Tong: Beijing wedding customs(below): Manchu and Chinese have a division of the city and countryside is interesting, a Manchu wedding customs[J]. Liyan Pictorial Journal,1939(54):15-16.(in Chinese)
[2] 周汛, 高春明. 中国衣冠服饰大辞典[M].上海:上海辞书出版社, 1996:581.
[3] 牛犁, 崔荣荣, 王忆雯. 清代女褂的纹饰艺术——以石青色江崖海水牡丹纹女褂为例[J]. 纺织导报, 2017(6):99-101.
NIU Li,CUI Rongrong, WANG Yiwen. The decorative arts of women’s coats in Qing Dynasty—taking women’s coat with wave-cliff and peony patterns for example[J].China Textile Leader, 2017(6):99-101.(in Chinese)
[4] 孙彦贞. 清代女性服饰文化研究[M].上海:上海古籍出版社, 2008:85-87.
[5] 房宏俊,严勇,万钧.对清代八团彩云金龙纹吉服的再认识[J].故宫博物院院刊,2007(2):80-93,157.
FANG Hongjun, YAN Yong, WAN Jun. A reinterpretation of the court robes emblazoned with eight roundels enclosing golden dragons in flight among coloured clouds[J]. Palace Museum Journal, 2007(2): 80-93,157.(in Chinese)
[6] 周星. 百年衣装:中式服装的谱系与汉服运动[M].北京:商务印书馆, 2019:4-53.
[7] 徐珂.清稗类钞(全十三册)[M].北京:中华书局,1986:6199.
[8] 中华世纪坛世界艺术馆. 晚清碎影:约翰·汤姆逊眼中的中国[M]. 北京:中国摄影出版社,2009:27.
[9] 苏州丝绸博物馆.元色彩绣团鹤对襟女礼服/大红彩绣镶边礼服裙[EB/OL].(2020-11-20)[2021-01-04]. http://www.szsilkmuseum.com/#/article/treasure?id=2a7b532a5fb73def0017097475d06686.
[10] 王中杰,梁惠娥. “八团红青褂子”女性礼服探微[C]//马胜杰,贾荣林.2018中华服饰文化国际学术研讨会.北京:中国纺织出版社,2020:287-294.
[11] 中国国家博物馆.民国初年的结婚礼服[EB/OL].(2018-12-18)[2021-01-04]. http://www.chnmuseum.cn/zp/zpml/201812/t20181218_24135.shtml.
[12] 中国国家博物馆.结婚喜堂前身着绣花软缎礼服的贺喜女宾客[EB/OL].(2018-12-18)[2021-01-04]. http://www.chnmuseum.cn/zp/zpml/201812/t201812 18_24149.shtml.
[13] 王碧蓉. 百年袁家:袁世凯及杨氏夫人后裔百年家族史[M].桂林:广西师范大学出版社,2013:43-171.
[14] 吕章申,孙彦贞.中国国家博物馆馆藏文物研究丛书(历史图片卷)[M].上海:上海古籍出版社,2006.
[15] ANON.Chinese wedding party standing[EB/OL].(1924-05-19)[2021-01-04]. https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/.
[16] SNON.Chinese family wedding portrait[EB/OL](2015-11-01)[2021-01-04]. https://open.library. ubc. ca/collections/chung/chungphotos/items/1.0219687.
[17] 邵琪伟. 中国旅游大辞典[M]. 上海:上海辞书出版社,2012:529.
[18] SILBERSTEIN R. Cloud collars and sleeve bands: comm-ercial embroidery and the fashionable accessory in mid-to-late Qing China[J]. Fashion Theory,2017,21(3):245-277.
[19] 黄苇,夏林根. 近代上海地区方志经济史料选辑(1840—1949)[M].上海:上海人民出版社,1984:345.
[20] 佚名.亦是文明结婚[J].时事报图画杂俎, 1908(125-126):4-3.
ANON. Also civilized marriage[J]. The Times Pictorial Miscellany, 1908(125-126):4-3.(in Chinese)
[21] 崔荣荣,牛犁.明代以来汉族民间服饰变革与社会变迁[M]. 武汉:武汉理工大学出版社,2016:98-146.
[22] 金受申.老北京的生活[M].北京:北京出版社, 1989:434.
[23] 寄萍.杭市丝绸纸伞两业概况[J].国货月报, 1934,1(7):19-22.
JI Ping. An overview of the two industries of silk paper umbrellas in Hangzhou[J]. National Goods Monthly, 1934,1(7):19-22.(in Chinese)
[24] 佚名.产业状况:镇江:本埠昔年有镇江绸及镇江库缎两种丝织出品[J].中央银行旬报,1931,3(18):24.
ANON. Industrial status: Zhenjiang: Zhenjiang silk and Zhenjiang satin in the past[J]. Central Bank Lenten Report,1931,3(18):24.(in Chinese)
[25] 唐希元.南京缎业之现况及其救济[J]. 中国实业,1935,1(5):829-841.
TANG Xiyuan. The present situation of the satin industry in Nanjing and its relief[J]. China Industry, 1935,1(5):829-841.(in Chinese)
[26] HANCOCK J. Brand/story:Ralph,Vera,Johnny,Billy, and other adventures in fashion branding[M].New York: Fairchild Books,2010.
[27] 佚名.梁珠小姐穿着礼服恭喜本刊诞生[J]. 都会,1939:1.
ANON. Miss Liang Zhu congratulates the birth of this magazine in her dress[J]. Metropolis,1939:1.(in Chinese)
[28] 佚名. 天津扶轮社之慈善校[J]. 图画时报, 1929(533):1.
ANON. The rotary club of Tianjin’s charity school[J]. The Illustrated Times, 1929(533):1.(in Chinese)
[29] 佚名.女青年会会员时装表演摄影[J]. 晨报星期画报,1928,3(134): 1.
ANON. Photographs of YWCA members’ fashion shows[J]. Morning Post Weekly Illustrated, 1928, 3(134): 1.(in Chinese)
[30] 佚名. 中国历代妇女装束:民初之新娘嫁衣[J]. 小世界:图画半月刊,1934(48):6.
ANON. Chinese women’s attire through the ages: the bride’s wedding dress at the beginning of the Ming Dynasty[J]. Small World: A Semi-Monthly Illustrated Magazine, 1934(48): 6.(in Chinese)
[31] 佚名.利丰绸缎顾绣庄,春风桃李花开日正是男婚女嫁时[N].大公报,1929-04-19(3).
[32] 佚名.浙江爱华绸缎制衣公司广告[N].新闻报,1920-08-09(2).
[33] 张倩倩,牛犁.近代江淮地区纺织业的发展与社会变迁[J].服装学报,2021,6(2):158-161.
ZHANG Qianqian, NIU Li. Development of textile indu-stry and social changes of modern times in Jianghuai region[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2021, 6(2): 158-161.(in Chinese)
[34] 苏珊·凯瑟.时尚与文化研究[M].北京:中国轻工业出版社,2016:1-11.
[35] PIERRE B. Distinction:a social critique of the judgment of taste[M].Cambridge:Harvard University Press,1984.
[36] 吴昊.中国妇女服饰与身体革命1911—1935[M].上海:东方出版中心,2008:17.
[37] 佚名.服制(附图)[J]. 政府公报,1912(157):4-9.
ANON. Clothing system(with illustrations)[J].Government Gazette, 1912(157):4-9.(in Chinese)
[38] 佚名. 女界新闻[J].香艳杂志,1914(3):1.
ANON. Women’s world news[J].Fragrant Magazine, 1914(3):1.(in Chinese)(责任编辑:张 雪)

更新日期/Last Update: 2022-01-04