[1]丁乾琨,张竞琼*.近代上海西服业各阶段的规模及形成原因[J].服装学报,2020,5(03):249-255.
　DING Qiankun,ZHANG Jingqiong*.Scale and Causes of Modern Shanghai Suit Industry in Each Stage[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2020,5(03):249-255.
点击复制

近代上海西服业各阶段的规模及形成原因()
分享到：

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第5卷
期数:
2020年03期
页码:
249-255
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2020-06-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Scale and Causes of Modern Shanghai Suit Industry in Each Stage
作者:
丁乾琨1;  张竞琼*2
1.江南大学 纺织科学与工程学院,江苏 无锡 214122; 2.江南大学 设计学院,江苏 无锡 214122
Author(s):
DING Qiankun1;  ZHANG Jingqiong*2
1.College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China; 2. School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China
分类号:
TS 941.712; F 416.86
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
为还原近代上海西服业的规模特征并探究其成因,依据上海市档案馆馆藏西服业相关档案和上海市地方志等近代文献史料,并结合统计学、产业经济学、数值分析的相关理论,采用全面调查、最小二乘法和市场集中度衡量法统计分析数据。结果表明:近代上海西服业经历了发端期、发展期与繁荣期3个发展阶段,呈现出从无到有、从少到多的整体趋势; 数量规模接近指数增长,在发端期只有几家店铺,而到繁荣期已经达到500多家; 资金规模以小额投资为主,独资制企业最多,西服市场集中度低,即垄断程度低,竞争较为激烈; 以定制西服业为主,同时现成西服业也占有一定比重。
Abstract:
In order to restore the scale characteristics of the modern Shanghai suit industry and explore its causes, based on modern literature historical materials such as historical archives of the Shanghai City Archives and Shanghai local records, and combined with the relevant theories of statistics, industrial economics and numerical analysis, a comprehensive survey, least squares and market concentration measures were used to measure and analyze data. Results showed that modern Shanghai suit industry experienced the development stage of a originating period, a development period and a prosperity period, showing the overall trend from nothing to something and from small to large. The quantity scale was close to the exponential growth. There were only a few shops in the originating period, but by the time of the boom, it had reached the peak of more than 500 shops. The capital size was mainly small investment. Most shops were sole proprietorship. The market concentration of suit industry was low, that was, the degree of monopoly was low, and the competition was fierce. The custom-made suit industry was the mainstay, while the ready-made suit industry also had a certain proportion.

参考文献/References:

[1] 季学源,陈万丰.红帮服装史[M].宁波:宁波出版社,2003.
[2] 陈万丰.中国红帮裁缝发展史:上海卷[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2007.
[3] 刘云华.红帮裁缝研究[M].杭州:浙江大学出版社,2010.
[4] 李当岐.西服文化[M].武汉:湖北美术出版社,2002.
[5] 上海通志编纂委员会.上海通志:第三册[M].上海:上海社会科学院出版社,2005.
[6] 佚名.定制西服广告[J].凤藻,1941(21):103.
Anon. Customized suit advertising[J]. Fengzao, 1941(21): 103.(in Chinese)
[7] 佚名.高尚夏季西装广告[J].申报月刊,1943,1(6):2.
Anon. Noble summer suit advertising[J]. Shen Bao Monthly,1943, 1(6):2.(in Chinese)
[8] 张渭源,王传铭.服饰辞典[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2011:60.
[9] 乔.现成西装[J].家庭(上海1937),1944,10(6):80.
JOE. Ready-made suit[J]. Happy Home(Shanghai 1937),1944,10(6):80.(in Chinese)
[10] 西比利亚皮货商店.全新现成男士春季大衣西装广告[N].申报,1947-04-16(3).
[11] BMK现成西装.西装大衣广告[N].申报,1947-04-19(1).
[12] 上海市黄浦区商业志编纂委员会.上海市黄浦区商业志[M].上海:上海科学技术出版社,1995:329-344.
[13] 上海市档案馆.上海市历年工商行名录[A].档案号Y9-1- 47、 Y9-1- 48- 69、 Y9-1-51、Y9-1-53-303,1918— 1942.
[14] 沈梓青.西装[J].上海常识,1928(57):26.
SHEN Ziqing. Suit[J]. Shanghai Knowledge,1928(57):26.(in Chinese)
[15] 上海日用工业品商业志编纂委员会.上海日用工业品商业志[M].上海:上海社会科学院出版社,1999.
[16] 陈新民.西服业[J].职业生活,1939,1(16):12-13.
CHEN Xinmin. Suit industry[J]. Professional Life,1939,1(16):12-13.(in Chinese)
[17] 上海市档案馆.上海市西服商业同业公会会员名册[A].档案号Y4-1-411,1948.
[18] 上海市档案馆.上海市西服商业同业公会会员登记表[A].档案号S241-4-8、S241-4-9、S241-4-10、S241-4-11、S241-4-12、S241-4-13,1950.
[19] 上海市档案馆.上海特别市经济警察第一大队关于各西服时装业商店调查表[A].档案号R27-1-101、R27-1-103、R27-1-104、R27-1-105,1944.
[20] 卢安,郝淑丽.服装产业组织学[M].北京:人民出版社,2013:81-85.
[21] 邹依仁.旧上海人口变迁的研究[M].上海:上海人民出版社,1980.
(责任编辑:张 雪)

更新日期/Last Update: 2020-06-30