[1]魏艳红,刘新金*,谢春萍,等.高支高保形衬衫面料的开发及其性能[J].服装学报,2019,4(06):471-476.
　WEI Yanhong,LIU Xinjin*,XIE Chunping,et al.Development and Performance Research of High-Count and High-Shape Retention Shirt Fabric[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2019,4(06):471-476.
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高支高保形衬衫面料的开发及其性能()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第4卷
期数:
2019年06期
页码:
471-476
栏目:
服装材料科学
出版日期:
2019-12-31

文章信息/Info

Title:
Development and Performance Research of High-Count and High-Shape Retention Shirt Fabric
作者:
魏艳红1; 2;  刘新金*1;  谢春萍1;  苏旭中1;  张钟唏2
1.江南大学 生态纺织教育部重点实验室,江苏 无锡 214122; 2.南通纺织控股集团纺织染有限公司,江苏 南通 226007
Author(s):
WEI Yanhong1; 2;  LIU Xinjin*1;  XIE Chunping1;  SU Xuzhong1;  ZHANG Zhongxi2
1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textile, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122, China; 2.Nantong Textile Holding Group Textile Dyeing Co., Ltd., Nantong 226007, China
分类号:
TS 116
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
为了改善高支衬衫面料的抗皱性,通过改变纺纱方式与优选组织,开发了一种高支高保形衬衫面料。利用JC 7.3 tex纯棉纱、JC/PET 7.3 tex(0.88 tex)包芯纱、JC/PET 7.3 tex(1.11 tex)包芯纱3种纱线采用不同的组织开发了4种面料,并对这4种织物的保形性(折皱回复性、尺寸稳定性、平挺性、刚柔性、悬垂性)、抗变形性(拉伸弹性)、舒适性(透气性、透湿性)等进行了系统的测试与分析。结果表明:2/2斜纹组织的抗皱性、透气性比平纹组织好; JC/PET包芯纱条干、拉伸弹性回复性好,用其开发衬衫面料,可以明显改善面料的折皱回复性、尺寸稳定性、平整度。PET长丝的初始模量越高、拉伸弹性回复性越好,其织物的抗皱效果越好。
Abstract:
In order to improve the wrinkle resistance of high-count shirt fabrics, in this paper, the high-count and high-shape retention shirt fabric was developed by changing the spinning method and the preferring weave structure. Four fabrics with different weaves were developed use JC 7.3 tex pure cotton yarn, JC/PET 7.3 tex(0.88 tex)core-spun yarn, JC/PET 7.3 tex(1.11 tex)core-spun yarn. The shape preservation, deformation resistance and comfort of these four kinds of fabrics were tested and analyzed on the basis of a series of testing indices including wrinkle recovery, dimensional stability, smoothness, rigid flexibility, draping property, tensile elasticity, air permeability and moisture penetrability. The results show that the 2/2 twill weave has better wrinkle resistance and air permeability than the plain weave. JC/PET core-spun yarn has good evenness and elastic recovery which can significantly improve the wrinkle recovery, dimensional stability and flatness of the dereloped shirt fabrics.The higher initial modulus of PET filament can contribute to the better the elastic recovery and the better wrinkle resistance of the fabric.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2019-12-30