[1]张蓓蓓,贺 阳*.唐代黄底瓣窠对含绶鸟纹锦残片纹样复原[J].服装学报,2018,3(03):266-273.
　ZHANG Beibei,HE Yang*.Restoration of Patterns of Yellow Petal Nest Brocade Pieces Decorated by Silk Ribbon Bird Ces by Tang Dynasty[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2018,3(03):266-273.
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唐代黄底瓣窠对含绶鸟纹锦残片纹样复原()
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《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第3卷
期数:
2018年03期
页码:
266-273
栏目:
服装服饰文化
出版日期:
2018-06-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
Restoration of Patterns of Yellow Petal Nest Brocade Pieces Decorated by Silk Ribbon Bird Ces by Tang Dynasty
作者:
张蓓蓓;  贺 阳*
北京服装学院 服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029
Author(s):
ZHANG Beibei;  HE Yang*
School of Fashion Art and Engineering, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China
分类号:
G 263
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
以实物、图像和文献资料互相对照的方法,对北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆藏唐代黄底瓣窠对含绶鸟纹锦残片进行分析。由于实物残缺不全,复原时,通过对比馆藏其他对含绶鸟纹锦实物,结合同时期以绢画、石窟壁画、金银器、岩刻为载体的对含绶鸟纹,并利用图案的对称性复原其完整纹样。通过对纹样的复原发现:①含绶鸟嘴衔绶带,颈后系有飘带,鸟的颈部、腹部、尾部等用联珠装饰,足下踏有棕榈座; ②填充在瓣窠环外的宾花为十样花,与瓣窠环一起构成四方连续图案的基本单元; ③从组织结构上来看,这件织锦为斜纹纬锦,以棕黄色作底,黄、绿两色显花,经线加Z捻,纬线无捻。通过研究此件织锦残片,并对比其他以织锦、绢画、石窟壁画为载体的对含绶鸟纹,总结出其在唐代的大体发展、演变过程,反映出其具有较高的学术价值,且部分织物在国内考古发现中已十分少见,应当加强研究与保护。
Abstract:
By comparing physical objects, images and literature data with each other, this paper analysis the silk ribbon birds’ brocade fragments in the yellow emperor’s Tang Dynasty in the collection of the Museum of National Costumes of Beijing Institute of Clothing. Due to the incomplete nature of the material, during the restoration, this research compares the collection of other ostrich-like objects with the collection of ostrich grain, and combines the use of enamel paintings, grotto murals, gold and silver ware, and rock carvings as the carrier to carry the ostrich-like pattern. This piece is a fragment of the shingles and some of the patterns are missing. In the process of recovery:①the objects of the collection are compared with other objects of the collection, which uses the symmetry of the pattern to recover its complete pattern; ②In modeling, it cardings the form and pattern of silk ribbon bird, from the theme patterns, auxiliary patterns and cell skeleton analysis; ③In the fabric, the fabric structure is studied, it is found that twill weft brocade, with brown as flowering, yellow, green and white, Z twist warp, weft twist is applied. The fragments of this piece of brocade are compared to other brocade, silk painting, murals as the carrier of silk ribbon bird. Its evolution can be summed up in the general development of the Tang Dynasty, and is believed to be of high academic value. Some fabrics have been rarely found in archaeological discoveries in China, and research and protection should be strengthened.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2018-06-30