[1]杨 雪,王子怡*.民初古典袍服平面裁剪工艺设计[J].服装学报,2017,2(01):17-23.
　YANG Xue,WANG Ziyi*.Study on the Plane Cutting Process and Design of Robe in Early Republican China[J].Journal of Clothing Research,2017,2(01):17-23.
点击复制

民初古典袍服平面裁剪工艺设计()
分享到：

《服装学报》[ISSN:2096-1928/CN:32-1864/TS]

卷:
第2卷
期数:
2017年01期
页码:
17-23
栏目:
服装工程技术
出版日期:
2017-02-28

文章信息/Info

Title:
Study on the Plane Cutting Process and Design of Robe in Early Republican China
作者:
杨 雪;  王子怡*
北京服装学院 服装艺术与工程学院,北京 100029
Author(s):
YANG Xue;  WANG Ziyi*
School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China
分类号:
TS 941.6
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
中国传统服装设计讲究因材施裁,在二维平面上塑造起包覆身躯的服饰空间,工艺细节设计讲究藏而不露,这些特点隐含着古人造物顺应自然的审美观念,与西方服饰使用立体裁剪或是在结构上显露分明的省道进行塑形的工艺设计风格迥然不同。通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的民初袍服实物进行测量、考察,对比文献记载,发现了古典袍服在裁剪与塑形设计中被人们忽视的工艺细节,并进一步探讨了这些工艺细节中蕴含的中装制衣之道,以期对当下中国服装在工艺审美及工艺设计方面有所启示。
Abstract:
Cut and designed according to the material, traditional Chinese clothes are made on a two-dimensional plane with their crafts and details remaining hidden and intangible. All these characteristics imply the ancient Chinese people’s aesthetic values of creating in harmony with the nature, which is largely different from that of the western culture. Western clothes usually use the techniques of free draping or dart to show people’s figure. After visiting the Folk Costume Studio of Jiangnan University, measuring the robes and studying the literatures a long-ignored problem was unveiled. This study explores the technique details in the cutting and shaping process of classical robes, and then discusses the rules of Chinese clothes making, so as to provide some useful suggestions to the design for modern Chinese clothes.

参考文献/References:

[1] 刘瑞璞,陈静洁.中华民族服饰结构图考:汉族编[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2013:121-127.
[2] 赵稼生.衣服裁法材料计算法[J].妇女杂志,1925,11(9):1452.
ZHAO Jiasheng.Method of calculating clothes cutting with materials[J].Women’s Magazine,1925,11(9):1452.(in Chinese)
[3] 潘之奎,玉辰.裁缝讲义[J].妇女时报,1913(10):75-80.
PAN Zhikui,YU Chen.Book on tailors[J].The Times of Women,1913(10):75-80.(in Chinese)
[4] 龚崇恩.裁缝法之大要[J].江苏省立第二女子师范学校汇刊,1915(1):9-14.
GONG Chongen.Main points of clothes cutting method [J] Collection of Jiangsu Second Women’s Normal University,1915(1):9-14.(in Chinese)
[5] 孙希旦.礼记集解[M].北京:中华书局,2012.
[6] 崔爱梅.祺袍制作与体型研究[M].台湾:[出版者不详],1984:66.
[7] 陈静洁.清末汉族古典华服结构研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2010:6-16.
[8] 闻人军译注,考工记[M].上海:上海古籍出版社,2008:4.
(责任编辑:邢宝妹)

更新日期/Last Update: 2017-02-28